Power purge vs do it yourself

**vnemous** · 02-11-2018, 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by phillnjack

1/2 hour to bleed the hydraulic steering ?
something not right there, should take about 5 minutes with 2 of you.
longest part is filling the helm unit with fluid.
.

Let me know when you find a shop that charges for 5 min.

**XstreamVking** · 02-11-2018, 11:06 AM

This is my suggestion. Clear hoses on bleeders going into containers at the cyl keeping the hoses under the oil level. Inverted bottle of oil connected to helm. Turn hard over pumping oil thru and watch for bubbles one side at a time leaving the bleeders slightly open.

**roadkill636** · 02-11-2018, 11:13 AM

Numerous times did that ^^^^^

**phillnjack** · 02-11-2018, 11:23 AM

Vnemous........... I didn't say a shop would only charge for 5 minutes, I said it only takes 5 minutes. big difference.
shops charge by the look of you when you walk in, you look like a tramp they say they are busy, you turn up looking like a
rich man then your gonna pay big time. thats obvious.

but bleeding the system is very easy, ive done mine about 5 times due to taking everything on and off for reasons that
are nothing to do with the steering ( consol out etc,)...

**vnemous** · 02-11-2018, 11:28 AM

Originally Posted by phillnjack

didn't say a shop would only charge for 5 minutes, I said it only takes 5 minutes.
shops charge by the look of you when you walk in, you look like a tramp they say they are busy, you turn up looking like a
rich man then your gonna pay big time. thats obvious.

WoW Hopefully its not like that all over where your from. We have customers from kids with aluminum Jon boat thats falling apart to guys that everytime they come to the shop they are in one of different exotics (Bentley, Rolls, Ferrari) all get treated the way we would like to be treated. Hopefully your that guy too

**XstreamVking** · 02-11-2018, 11:29 AM

The constant turning of the wheel at speed might mean a helm problem.

**phillnjack** · 02-11-2018, 11:39 AM

can you move the motor left and right when standing at the back of the motor ? if so are you sure its not soft upper mounts letting the
motor move and the steering bar is actually stationary ? ive seen this a lot .

when you put the stainless bar through the tube on the motor is this tight -ish ( just enough to move up and down firmly when tilting motor).
if you have any slight left and right here it will be bad.

is there any slop at the bolt going to the actual steering bar on the motor ? again this needs no gaps.

one last thing , are the bleeders pointing slightly upward rather than down????

other than these thing your system is failing big time and needs to be looked at or sent back.

**phillnjack** · 02-11-2018, 11:56 AM

Originally Posted by vnemous

WoW Hopefully its not like that all over where your from. We have customers from kids with aluminum Jon boat thats falling apart to guys that everytime they come to the shop they are in one of different exotics (Bentley, Rolls, Ferrari) all get treated the way we would like to be treated. Hopefully your that guy too

no mate , I dont charge by time, I am too honest for that, most of the stuff I do is for friends and people I know and I DO NOT charge to help anyone.
I know or is a good friend of a good friend..
Bleeding a hydraulic system is a very easy very simple job what can you charge for such a simple job ? its a nothing job.

this is not fitting the complete system its just bleeding it....

what do you charge for labour per hour at your shop ?

**99fxst99** · 02-11-2018, 11:57 AM

Originally Posted by vnemous

WoW Hopefully its not like that all over where your from. We have customers from kids with aluminum Jon boat thats falling apart to guys that everytime they come to the shop they are in one of different exotics (Bentley, Rolls, Ferrari) all get treated the way we would like to be treated. Hopefully your that guy too

Kinda what I was thinking as I read his post.....

**roadkill636** · 02-11-2018, 01:16 PM

Originally Posted by phillnjack

can you move the motor left and right when standing at the back of the motor ? if so are you sure its not soft upper mounts letting the
motor move and the steering bar is actually stationary ? ive seen this a lot .

when you put the stainless bar through the tube on the motor is this tight -ish ( just enough to move up and down firmly when tilting motor).
if you have any slight left and right here it will be bad.

is there any slop at the bolt going to the actual steering bar on the motor ?

Here is where the 1" to 1 1/2" movement is.no doubt where the slop is comming from.

**phillnjack** · 02-11-2018, 01:59 PM

have you tried to bleed this with the ram off the motor ? if your not getting full movement of the ram it might not get all the air out..

I say off the motor so the T-fitting will be higher than the ram body to let air out.

how many turns lock to lock are you getting with this system on the motor ? mine is 3 1/4 lock to lock... using steering arm second bolt hole.

is there any bad scratches/marks on the stainless ram itself ?

**roadkill636** · 02-11-2018, 02:03 PM

Steering cyl is off the mota and hung up from the rafters higher than the flywherl rite now. No scratches at all on the ram.

3 1/4 turns me too. Lock to lock.

**roadkill636** · 02-11-2018, 02:09 PM

Just came in from working with it some more.
Got all the hoses down low in the boat and the ram hanging from the rafters higher than the flywheel. And a clear hose running from the bleeders back up to the helm.
Not getting ANY air out of the bleeders at all but am getting BB size bubbles coming up out of the helm after i go past lock and open the pressuer relief lock check. Dooing this several times. Then the tiniest of tiniest of pinpoint bubnles slowly metge upward.
Rite now its sotting on full lock with the relief valve open.

**phillnjack** · 02-11-2018, 04:21 PM

what relief valve ? can you show a pic of that please
and when you go lock to lock, do you give it a real hard budge too ?

it sounds like you are getting closer to getting it right.