Lakeland marine shift shaft seal

[bradmd]

2010 300xs, sportmaster lower.
I bought the shift shaft seal from Lakeland Marine some time ago, had my mechanic install, but was still having an issue with water intrusion. Pulled lower off and saw this seal sitting on top. The seal under it with the ss spring is working fine. I am guessing this is not where that seal is supposed to go........anyone have an idea? I am guessing it goes on the underside of the billet shift shaft perch. I took it off and looked, but it was not evident where it belongs. Any help appreciated.

[Davidlake]

The Lakeland shift shaft seal kit has a double seal. The top seal likely came out of the aluminum carrier.

[NICE PAIR]

2010 300xs, sportmaster lower.
I bought the shift shaft seal from Lakeland Marine some time ago, had my mechanic install, but was still having an issue with water intrusion. Pulled lower off and saw this seal sitting on top. The seal under it with the ss spring is working fine. I am guessing this is not where that seal is supposed to go........anyone have an idea? I am guessing it goes on the underside of the billet shift shaft perch. I took it off and looked, but it was not evident where it belongs. Any help appreciated.

Why don't you call the Lakeland peeps?

It appears you have a billet, double seal, vented housing. If you are still getting water in the unit, I would suspect shaft seals or under water pump seals. Vented means -0- pressure and also -0- vacuum created. $ .02

[Double Rigged]

That is a rubber cover over the seal. It is not a seal but sits on top and is supposed to be there.
Do you have a MAD EFI Drive shaft seal? if not you should get one of those too.
I run both on my lowers and my motors are very high and they get hot but have had no water issues.
send a pm to toddD on here.
He has them.

[bradmd]

Why don't you call the Lakeland peeps?

It appears you have a billet, double seal, vented housing. If you are still getting water in the unit, I would suspect shaft seals or under water pump seals. Vented means -0- pressure and also -0- vacuum created. $ .02

I emailed them last night but haven’t heard from them. I also have one of their drive shaft seals. I checked the unit with vacuum and it held -15 all night. Then did the same with 15 psi. I see no leaks around the drive shaft nor the prop shaft when using soapy water.
The shift shaft doesn’t leak at all w vacuum, but does if I wiggle the shift shaft at all. I am thinking that’s where the leak is when shifting

[bradmd]

That is a rubber cover over the seal. It is not a seal but sits on top and is supposed to be there.
Do you have a MAD EFI Drive shaft seal? if not you should get one of those too.
I run both on my lowers and my motors are very high and they get hot but have had no water issues.
send a pm to toddD on here.
He has them.

i have a driveshaft seal from lake as well. Good to know that’s just a rubber cover.

[NICE PAIR]

I emailed them last night but haven’t heard from them. I also have one of their drive shaft seals. I checked the unit with vacuum and it held -15 all night. Then did the same with 15 psi. I see no leaks around the drive shaft nor the prop shaft when using soapy water.
The shift shaft doesn’t leak at all w vacuum, but does if I wiggle the shift shaft at all. I am thinking that’s where the leak is when shifting

I'm missing something, where does the hose off the front of the billet piece go? I was thinking it goes to an expansion tank or just goes up the leg and is open. If so I don't understand how you can get pressure or vacuum, unless the hose is pinched.

Makes sense on the shift shaft, but if the housing is really vented, there should be no water, unless the seal is totally shot. your 15 psi + and 15= vacuum suggest that something is not right with the billet vent piece/hose

[bradmd]

I'm missing something, where does the hose off the front of the billet piece go? I was thinking it goes to an expansion tank or just goes up the leg and is open. If so I don't understand how you can get pressure or vacuum, unless the hose is pinched.

Makes sense on the shift shaft, but if the housing is really vented, there should be no water, unless the seal is totally shot. your 15 psi + and 15= vacuum suggest that something is not right with the billet vent piece/hose

U r correct, the hose vents to an expansion tank. As long as the seals are good, the line and expansion tank gets none of the pressure or vacuum. I just went out and took the shifter shaft perch off and the seal that was on top,— I don’t think is a cover. There was a place underneath to put it where it will be functional. Guess that’s the last time I use that mechanic.
Heres to the end of milky gear oil, I hope.

[NICE PAIR]

"Cool" ... Good Luck

[tux974]

If that cover has a spring it is a seal. Also get the one for under pump as suggested.
I would suggest to make sure you do not over fill the case!

[bradmd]

If that cover has a spring it is a seal. Also get the one for under pump as suggested.
I would suggest to make sure you do not over fill the case!

In the pic, the lower one has a spring. The one that was sitting on top, doesnt have a lip for a seal. But it fits nicely on the underside of the aluminum perch. Hopefully that's where it was supposed to be.
I filled it from the bottom until it came out of the vent., then closed it up. Any other proper way to do it? Thanks

[NICE PAIR]

In the pic, the lower one has a spring. The one that was sitting on top, doesnt have a lip for a seal. But it fits nicely on the underside of the aluminum perch. Hopefully that's where it was supposed to be.
I filled it from the bottom until it came out of the vent., then closed it up. Any other proper way to do it? Thanks

I believe the Sporty's require 28oz. for a fill, I have let mine "heat cycle" for years and never had water in my oil (when done filling, lower plug in and tight, take the top plug out and let it ooze thru 2/3 temperature cycles, put the plug back in)

Some peeps will pull the bottom plug then loosen the top plug, then carefully let out a couple of oz. of oil.

Too full is an issue, but with your expansion tank, you should be good to go.

[Davidlake]

Nice, I count the "pumps" required to fill the case with my bottle pump. 28 seems about right for my clockwise case, but maybe 1/2 of that for the counter case.

[NICE PAIR]

Nice, I count the "pumps" required to fill the case with my bottle pump. 28 seems about right for my clockwise case, but maybe 1/2 of that for the counter case.

You need to try harder to drain the "lefty"

1. they require the same mount of oil

2. they run hotter (because of the way they handle prop thrust)

3. they drain way slower (same reason) spinning the shaft every once in a while helps, blowing some air in the top hole helps (carefully)

4. before the good (gold) oil the merc + used to burn or coke up (thrust heat) I usually change my lefty 2/1 with the righty

$ .02 :-)

[bradmd]

David Lake was correct, that is a cover, not a real seal, it is a cover. Lakeland emailed me back. I was just looking at the old shaft seal perch that I replaced. I was going to pry one of the seals out but it has loctite on it, on it's outer edge. That makes good sense. The odd thing, is the merc service manual does not say to use loctite there. Anyone else replace their seals and use loctite around the outer edge?