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  1. #16
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    air injectors need to be measured for proper opening.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaky View Post
    Thanks - that's all kinda easy enough at this point other than the compressor reeds but I think those expose with a set of bolts. The rails are stripped off the engine, hoses and everything have been removed, alll just sitting on the bench; air injectors I left in the holes but I can pull those right out easily.

    Jon
    Just remove the four head bolts from the compressor. The two sets of reeds are right there under the head..

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  5. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    air injectors need to be measured for proper opening.
    I've never seen anything on that, can you describe?

    Actually am not really sure how to clean these things either, was thinking of WD40 and a toothbrush maybe.

    I have a variable DC supply and a spare harness (so I got the plugs to connect to them) - actually could fire the injectors if I knew the voltage.

    Jon

  6. #19
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    Opti air and fuel injectors use lots of power, much more than standard injectors. Takes a special setup to flow them. Air injectors pintal opening must be between .008-012 with 9v-12v thrown at them.
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  8. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    Opti air and fuel injectors use lots of power, much more than standard injectors. Takes a special setup to flow them. Air injectors pintal opening must be between .008-012 with 9v-12v thrown at them.
    So you are saying not really possible to test them without a special setup? Clean and re-install or send them out for testing if I wanted to go that route?

    Seems like if there's a way to clean certainly worth cleaning, just trying to smooth this idle thing out though otherwise. I do not suspect a problem with the injectors unless it's all the injectors since when I shut them down one at a time there is a change for every cylinder.

    Symptom is basically sometimes a start and stall immediately after, idling with a skip every now and then when cold, could stall, but once it warms up the idle is much smoother and runs perfect once you just come above an idle. Other engine might have a little stumble here and there but it's so faint you gotta be OCD to notice, runs better than my truck, so I see the difference and know something is wrong. Was hoping for years whatever it was would just completely fail so I could find it but simply does not seem to be the sort of thing that will completely fail or even really get worse.

    Thanks,

    Jon

  9. #21
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    There was a recall on the compressor reeds. If it was done there should be a spot of white paint on the edge of compressor reed plate.

  10. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    There was a recall on the compressor reeds. If it was done there should be a spot of white paint on the edge of compressor reed plate.
    Hmmm - what vintage - the 2 bearing style? What went wrong with them - wasn't a honking noise was it?

    Jon

  11. #23
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    That diaphragm looks to have a split in it at 1:00......................
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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  13. #24
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    An opti lives or dies on the quality of the air injectors. In most cases the fuel side is far better filtered than the air side.

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  15. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by flabum1017 View Post
    That diaphragm looks to have a split in it at 1:00......................
    The picture makes it look that way but it's not, however it's got a funny notch in it from the way it was mis-installed - is getting replaced though.

    Jon

  16. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    An opti lives or dies on the quality of the air injectors. In most cases the fuel side is far better filtered than the air side.
    Oh that's definitely true on the filtering - started looking at the fuel injectors for cleaning there's simply nothing to do there. Fuel side of everything is perfect, it's the air side I gotta inspect, that crud is all over the place and probably has been that way for awhile, kinda amazing how well it ran like that.

  17. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaky View Post
    So you are saying not really possible to test them without a special setup? Clean and re-install or send them out for testing if I wanted to go that route?

    Seems like if there's a way to clean certainly worth cleaning, just trying to smooth this idle thing out though otherwise. I do not suspect a problem with the injectors unless it's all the injectors since when I shut them down one at a time there is a change for every cylinder.

    Symptom is basically sometimes a start and stall immediately after, idling with a skip every now and then when cold, could stall, but once it warms up the idle is much smoother and runs perfect once you just come above an idle. Other engine might have a little stumble here and there but it's so faint you gotta be OCD to notice, runs better than my truck, so I see the difference and know something is wrong. Was hoping for years whatever it was would just completely fail so I could find it but simply does not seem to be the sort of thing that will completely fail or even really get worse.

    Thanks,

    Jon
    A simple way to check for leakage on your air injectors is turn the injector vertical, puddle some wd40 on cylinder side, and with a rubber tip air gun blow against the rail side. If it's leaking, you will see bubbles.

  18. #28
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cigud5Ss_LA
    The above link shows what happens when you have a 100% blockage after your air regulator. Had to boost the idle to 1400 rpm to prevent it from stalling to get that video. I dropped a 2006 175hp optimax head onto a 1995 carbed mid and basically routed the bleed air into a dead end effectively turning the air regulator into a plug. Took the hose off and it ran amazing and i found another way to route the air.

    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...5-carbed/page3

    Also those round air regulators actually come from Tohatsu (3T5-10090-0)
    I think in the very first Optimaxs (maybe 98-2001) may have had issues and Mercury just looked at the other orbital DFI(which runs all the exact same pressures) outboard and adopted their air regulator into their new design. While I first thought my air regulator was clogged (it wasn't) I figured out they were actually a Tohatsu part which could be found for cheaper without the Mercury reselling.

    Also what DFI oil do you use? I'm speculating but maybe its having an interaction with the rubber hoses and creating crud/debris? I would expect some oil from from the pump to be in the air. Only other source of FOD without disassembly or air filter failure would be metal debris from wear between the air compressor piston and cylinder(oil could also come into play with the wear).
    Last edited by Fishinmymission; 01-08-2018 at 07:27 PM.

  19. #29
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    haven’t read it here but that gue could come from the cylinders upon starting the ecu keeps the air injectors open to build up air pressure in the rails
    this is mentioned in the workplace manual
    so use quality oil preferably factory
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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