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  1. #46
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    I wonder if a guard or housing could be made around the o2 that allows it to read but keeps the fuel from soaking it and burning it out?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I wonder if a guard or housing could be made around the o2 that allows it to read but keeps the fuel from soaking it and burning it out?
    I think the newer 4.9 LSU sensors are generally tougher than the old 4.2s. They use them on diesels a lot, and with all the crap people put into “biofuel” these days, if they’re surviving in that environment, then I guess they should last in a two stroke?
    BTW: I remember getting one of the first versions of the 4.9 sensor back in 2016 or so from PLX (which has a much faster response/sampling rate than the older version, as I understand it) and it had a “shroud” on the tip, as shown on the right in the photo below.
    I’ve bought a couple of 4.9 sensors since then for other projects, but they didn’t look like that. Someone on Corvetteforums (I think) told me that it was a diesel sensor, but I really haven’t done any research on that, tbh.
    It worked like a charm though.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #48
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  5. #49
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    I made an adapter . 18mm down to 1/2" NC .. little dome head just barely sticks into the runner. Small hole in the end another up and down . It's installed at an angle to drain any oil that finds its way into the dome. The sensor is protected from deposits and those attachments Ronnie posted show trending EGT and 02 curves .. I find 12 to 12.8 and 1100* F make the plugs pretty happy ..




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  7. #50
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    Should be enough room as long as you can get a good sealing between the outer housing and the inner exhaust tuner!
    Mayb weld up material or an through and through adapter when the housing is assembled
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2912.jpg   IMG_2908.jpg   IMG_2899.jpg  
    Last edited by PanRonnie; 07-25-2021 at 04:41 AM.

  8. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I wonder if a guard or housing could be made around the o2 that allows it to read but keeps the fuel from soaking it and burning it out?
    I think the factory yam v6 that had one its under a ledge so it has to sniff from below?

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  10. #52
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    i had this adapter made to help with easy installation but i had some unexpected results
    in the graph engine number 1 is (AFR 1 ,EGT1 ,EGT2 , EGT 5, EGT 6 last 2 are head temp)
    engine number 2 is ( AFR 2 , EGT3 ,EGT4 , EGT7 ,EGT8 last 2 are head temp)
    MAP and RPM are from engine 2
    AFR 2 is higher than AFR1 while engine 2 is set richer , so i don,t know forsure if this was because of the adapter but it,s out now and installed the same way as engine 1
    also funny engine 2 has the poppet valve and engine 1 the flow cooling
    i see no difference at lower rpm it gets a little hotter with the poppet valve but other than that
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC_0268.jpg   DSC_0270.jpg   run_18_07_2021.png   mercury_head_temp.png  
    Last edited by PanRonnie; 07-25-2021 at 05:39 AM.

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  12. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanRonnie View Post
    Should be enough room as long as you can get a good sealing between the outer housing and the inner exhaust tuner!
    Mayb weld up material or an through and through adapter when the housing is assembled
    That would require quite a bit of work on my setup, since there’s quite a bit of clearance between the tuner adaptor and the can with the F1 setup, so you would need an adaptor like the one that Chaz posted a picture of above, but probably with longer threads so that it screws right through the can, across the gap, and into the tuner adaptor to put the sensor tip inside the exhaust port. But I’m not so sure how well the sensor would read, because the nose of the sensor would probably be buried inside the adaptor?
    But, maybe you could rig something up using one of those exhaust clamp from Innovate, like in the link below:
    https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...html?styleid=6

    I’ve already have my motor together and want to test it soon, so I’m probably not going to mess with an O2 sensor right now.

    Heres the can (“late” model F1) and tuner/adaptor plate I’m using. You can see that it would take a long reach adaptor to get from outside the can to an exhaust port in the tuner plate:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by CI STV; 07-25-2021 at 10:27 AM.

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  14. #54
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    it,s hard to see but would the distance from the outside to the inside of the exhaust be something like 3 to 4 cm?
    something like a full threaded adapter reaching all the way inside!
    definitly a winter job
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails _20210726_181511.jpg   lamda_spacer_front.png   lamda_spacer_back.png  

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  16. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanRonnie View Post
    it,s hard to see but would the distance from the outside to the inside of the exhaust be something like 3 to 4 cm?
    something like a full threaded adapter reaching all the way inside!
    definitly a winter job
    Hmmn, that looks like it could work, but I imagine it might need some way to allow exhaust gas to flow across the sensor, otherwise you might not get an accurate reading?
    ”Winter”?? What’s that? Winter for us is ~80* weather, with < 75% humidity, as opposed to the steamy 95* we have to endure now.

  17. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by CI STV View Post
    Hmmn, that looks like it could work, but I imagine it might need some way to allow exhaust gas to flow across the sensor, otherwise you might not get an accurate reading?
    ”Winter”?? What’s that? Winter for us is ~80* weather, with < 75% humidity, as opposed to the steamy 95* we have to endure now.
    In the netherlands we have one week of summer , that was last week!

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