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  1. #76
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    Butterfly wheel installed

    Installed the steering wheel, trim buttons and In-Control shifter last weekend.
    I had to devise a patch panel to cover up the big ass hole in the dash where a former owner had installed a 5” tach. That will be covered up by the AiM dash though. The Digital Delay timer will be on the left hand side of the dash.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by CI STV; 01-08-2021 at 10:52 PM.

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  3. #77
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    Managed to get some work done on the STV today. Pulled the dash panel and installed the AiM MXL2 dash/datalogger and the Digital Trim box. Now comes the fun part: wiring everything up. Need to figure that out next. Worst part is that I don’t have any kind of wiring diagram. I’m sure I can figure it out though. Also managed to get the trim limiter switch installed. Hope to get some more time to work on it this week and will post some better pictures up soon.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #78
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    Finally getting back to this project. I have everything I need now to put it all together, so hopefully can start assembling it next weekend.
    I decided to take the midsection back off and powdercoat it gloss black, instead of the silver/aluminum color that I had on it originally. The reason being that when I rested the CDR cowl on it, the color was so far off that I decided I didn’t like it. I should get the can back this week. I think it will look better in black anyhow, since the clamp and steering wings are black.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #79
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    Also decided to swap out the stock 21cc heads for some PPE billet heads. I’m setting it up with 21cc chambers for now, but Brendan is also making me a set of 17cc chambers as well:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #80
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    MIAMI FLORIDA
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    Looking really nice... I had giant holes everywhere in my dash also and ended up having to put a metal doubler over it to regain some strength and cover the holes.
    Last edited by H2OPERF; 04-19-2021 at 07:31 AM.

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  11. #81
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    Got the midsection back from the powdercoating shop today. I like it better in gloss black. Gonna try to drop the powerhead on it tomorrow.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #82
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    Looking sweet


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


  13. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach351 View Post
    Looking sweet
    Thanks man. Want to try to get this boat finished soon, just in time for Hurricane season, lol.
    Last edited by CI STV; 04-25-2021 at 09:58 AM.

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  15. #84
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    Best way to install powerhead studs for 12” mid-section.

    I need to figure out what to use on the powerhead studs, since this boat is going to be used in saltwater, albeit only for short periods of time.
    I recall seeing a thread on here with a group of knowledgeable guys discussing the best way to install powerhead studs, and everyone seems to have a different idea about how to do that.
    Some say use Locktite for the coarse threads in the block, others say no.
    Some say use grease on the studs (and on the threads in the block), others say use anti-seize.
    Some say hell no to anti-seize...?
    I was going to use Permatex 80078 anti-seize on everything, as I’ve always done, and it works.
    I don’t like using Locktite in the powerhead anyway, because from experience sometimes it’s good if you can get the stud to screw out to break it loose from the sh!t that builds up around it.
    The Permatex 80078 label says it’s a blend of copper, aluminum and graphite that is temperature and salt resistant, so I can’t see any reason why not to use that?

  16. #85
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got the heads torqued to 28 ft lbs as per PPE instructions using 21cc chambers for now, which is the same compression Diamond tuned it with. Hoping to get this dropped on today.

  17. #86
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    Really looks sweet.

  18. #87
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    I drill in through the side of the tuner plate maybe a 3/32” hole all the way through to the stud cavity, then tap it 1/4-28 and install a ss zerk. Put the power head on, tighten the nuts, then pump grease in until it hydrolocks and encapsulates the stud in grease. I do this on all four long studs. Keeps the salt, water, corrosion, everything out. Pump a shot of grease in every once in a while. Never had an issue since. I can get take some pics of my mids if you don’t quite get what I’m saying.


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


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  20. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach351 View Post
    I drill in through the side of the tuner plate maybe a 3/32” hole all the way through to the stud cavity, then tap it 1/4-28 and install a ss zerk. Put the power head on, tighten the nuts, then pump grease in until it hydrolocks and encapsulates the stud in grease. I do this on all four long studs. Keeps the salt, water, corrosion, everything out. Pump a shot of grease in every once in a while. Never had an issue since. I can get take some pics of my mids if you don’t quite get what I’m saying.
    That’s a very smart fix. The only problem for me would be that since I’m using a 12” midsection, the tuner plate is only like 3/8” thick, so I can’t drill that. And I don’t really want to drill the midsection, since it’s freshly powdercoated and I don’t want to take the chance of drilling it and cause the PC to peel off.

  21. #89
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    Ooooo right forgot about the 12.....

    so how about this?

    Get some 3/4 round bar and cut a chunk about a 1/2 thick off and drill it 3/8 in the middle. Then drill in from the side a 3/16 hole....tap that and install the zerk. Now you have “thick” powerhead washer that has a zerk in it. Would do the same thing my setup does but no holes in the mid and totally removable....

    idk just thinking


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


  22. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach351 View Post
    Ooooo right forgot about the 12.....

    so how about this?

    Get some 3/4 round bar and cut a chunk about a 1/2 thick off and drill it 3/8 in the middle. Then drill in from the side a 3/16 hole....tap that and install the zerk. Now you have “thick” powerhead washer that has a zerk in it. Would do the same thing my setup does but no holes in the mid and totally removable....

    idk just thinking
    I like the idea. The only problem is that the Mercury powerhead studs wouldn’t be long enough then.
    I wouldn’t have had a problem drilling the mid before I got it powdercoated, but I just had it redone in black, so I’m afraid to f@ck it up and have to recoat it again, lol.
    BTW, the later model 12” mid has 8 long studs, so I would’ve needed 8 zerk fittings.
    I’m just going to use antiseize in the holes and hope for the best. It’s messy as hell, but it’s always worked for me.

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