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  1. #1
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    Stainless steel fuel tank repair

    Hello guys,

    can someone share info how to repair stainless steel fuel tank without major surgery of the boat?
    Check the link for video.

    Thank you
    K

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1v68y6ibuw...%2046.mov?dl=0

  2. #2
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    Drain the tank completely, fill it with soapy water to get all the fuel residue and fumes out, ventilate the area well, leave the tank full but not so full that the water leaks out the crack, find some brave soul to weld it. VERY important to be sure there are not fuel fumes present while welding.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  3. #3
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    Looks like the JBWeld let go. You're going to have to pull the tank and get serious.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  4. #4
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    exhaust fumes from a car tail pipe into a hose then into the tank will help kill the petrol fumes, then fill with water and leave for 24 hours before even thinking about welding it.

  5. #5
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    I wonder how long the jb weld lasted? . Maybe lower the fuel level, clean with brake clean, dry with air and slap some more jb weld on. Might get you a while, a least to the end of season?.

  6. #6
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    ok here goes a quick fix. lower the fuel level so its not leaking, but first you need to know EXACTLY where the leak is !!!.
    once you have found and marked exactly where it is get a drill bit a bit bigger than the hole and VERY VERY SLOWLY drill into the tank and using a hand manual drill
    and also small hoover nozzle to collect as many filings as possible.
    DO NOT USE POWER DRILL IF ANY FUEL AT ALL OR FUMES ARE IN THE TANK, YOU CAN GET KILLED IF JUST 1 SPARK HITS THE FUMES.
    once this is done I would then get a self tapping screw / bolt slightly bigger than the hole diameter and with a red fibre washer slowly put the bolt into the hole and snug it up.
    you can either tighten it up and hope the fibre washer seals it, or use something on the lines of a fuel proof epoxy sealant around the thread of the screw/bolt..

    the sealant I would use would be something along the lines of Sikaflex Tank N Oil & Fuel Resistant Sealant , get whatever is petrol and ethanol resistant.

    this would still only be a temporary measure until the tank can have a plate welded over the area when convenient.

    just how I would do this for a very short term situation..

    is this on the side or top of the tank ?

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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainkaspar View Post
    Hello guys,

    can someone share info how to repair stainless steel fuel tank without major surgery of the boat?
    Check the link for video.

    Thank you
    K

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/1v68y6ibuw...%2046.mov?dl=0
    Trying to repair that tank in place looks like a risky proposition . Best to drain and remove the tank , flush out good with soapy water , and fill tank (purge) with CO2 prior to attempting and welding (if you can find anyone willing to weld it for you ). I remember hearing a story years ago about a welder attempting a similar repair and despite cleaning out the tank prior there was still enough gas vapor to cause an explosion which either killed him or severely injured the poor fellow .

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    If your going to pull it out to fix it , just replace it with a new plastic tank from a manufacturer that's approved by the boating industry ! That keeps you from any law suit or injury to anyone .

  10. #9
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    Back when I was young, a friend of mine split his fuel tank on a 250 TT bike at the track. He flopped it over in the pit, took the gas cap off and left about a quart of gas in the tank. (it only held a gallon or so) and commenced to brazing the split seam. When he got the tank hot, he wiped the flame past the fill hole, and it shot a plume out about 6 feet. The small crowd that was watching him quickly repositioned themselves about 100 feet away.

    If you know what you're doing, it isn't dangerous. You have to know what you are doing, however, as in a thorough knowledge of fuel combustion and explosion dynamics.

    I've welded on several tanks full of gasoline. I've never welded on an "empty" one.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  11. #10
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    I have done what Phillnjack said on car gas tank also lower fuel clean and use pc 7 it's temporary but will maybe get you through the season.

  12. #11
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    I would NEVER recommend welding on a fuel tank, no matter how well you clean it out there could still be fumes. With that being said I have done it several times with the tank as full of water as I could get it and still weld. Balls aren't big enough to try it full of gas but I get the theory that gas doesn't burn, only the vapor mixed with air burns...or at 14:1 explodes!!


    96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
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  13. #12
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    Getting fumes out is the part to worry about, this is why car exhaust fumes are used.
    It kills off the gasoline fumes, you need to get plenty in there though and if you can get the slightest whiff if petrol its not yet ready.

    I have done exactly the same when welding up gas bottles to make fun garden ornaments.
    just using water to clean it would take months, and still would get a pong of gas .

    Plastic tanks are a great idea, as if they get a leak its just a case of hot air gun to weld them back up.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    Getting fumes out is the part to worry about, just using water to clean it would take months, and still would get a pong of gas .
    Agree but the point in using water is to displace the fumes to only a small pocket under the area that is being welded, not to "wash" the gas out of the tank. I have heard of using CO2 or other inert gas (exhaust?) to dilute/displace the air/fuel vapor but have always felt more confident that the pocket of gas fumes was very small with water as I can see how big the bomb is...but of course I don't recommend welding gas tanks.


    96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
    98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
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  15. #14
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    using the word BOMB is the correct wording when fuel tank welding is on the cards.

    I think I would be happier using both the fumes and then fill it with water too, cannot be too picky when welding tanks.

  16. #15
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    A bomb requires several items to be in place. You need fuel, an oxidizer, and compression, usually attained by containment.

    A fireworks sparkler has fuel and oxidizer, but no containment. Kids play with the pretty sparks.
    A few hundred held in an open coffee can...... pretty intense display, but still no boom.
    Wrap them in about 20 layers of duct tape, and you have a potentially deadly bomb. The report will be heard for miles.
    The difference is the duct tape.

    Gasoline, oil, or ear wax is fuel.
    Air, or the oxygen from a welding torch, obvious oxidizer.
    A sealed tank is the containment. The trick is the definition of sealed.

    A cap on the tank, is sealed.
    A small opening with a large volume of fuel and oxidizer is effectively sealed. (empty tank)
    Tank with fumes mostly full of water with the cap off....will just burn, although maybe with a perky flash that goes out.
    Tank mostly full of gas with the cap off....will just burn, although sustained, and if not controlled could burn down the shop.
    Tank with fumes mostly full of water with the cap on.....is contained, and is an explosion hazard.
    Tank with fumes mostly full of water with an air pocket that is isolated from the open filler neck by water......explosion hazard. The reason is that the weight of the water compared to the rate of expansion of burning fuel/air makes it an effective barrier...er seal.

    I've gleefully welded mounting tabs on a gas tank full of gasoline after lighting the plume at the filler neck. Not a problem except for the loaded shorts on my helper with the fire extinguisher (which he never had to use)

    Another job involved a welding repair on the filler neck of a 500 gallon fuel oil tank. That one was mostly full of water, with maybe a 2 gallons of air freely vented to the filler neck. Very small soft fire, and another helper with pants problems.

    Someone over in Isanti tried to weld legs on an empty lube oil drum with the bungs in as a first step in making a barrel stove. He met his maker instead.

    The best overall system is complete purging and testing (with an explosimeter) or or filling with inert gas, (CO2, nitrogen, or argon)
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

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