Not quite a V4 140 but not an 85 Just a mash up

[spybot]

OK folks before i start let me say this.
I know this is not a complete transformation and that a lot of work has to be done to the center rib oh the block to for the bubble back to have a full effect.
I am as you probably all have at one time just wanting a quick fix before a major tear down re-build.
with the above in mind this is what i want to do.
My engine is a 1980 V4 85hp (J85tlcsa) I am going to add Carbs from a 1978 140hp Size is 1 5/16" Throats.
(I will have to modify so they run from the primer rather than the choke plates)
Add a set of Chris Carson Sport Reeds with Reed fillers from the 140.
Add a set of High Comp heads from a 1982 140hp
Last of all use the inner and outer baffle plates from Bubble Belly 140 ( I have read that the V4s run better without the guides/filler/stuffers plus dont think they will fit)
I know this is not a 140 but at the same time nor will it be a 85 think maybe close to 110 or 115 but i will just have to try it all and see.
It may work it may not.
Can i have your thoughts on this ???
Will the jetting be OK ?????
What if any problems can you see from doing the above ????

[spybot]

OK so i have learned the the Fillers are needed
Is there a way to run the above without the need for a machine shop ?????

[71V153]

Is there a way to run the above without the need for a machine shop ?????

Yes. A good eye and a really really big file ...

[FMP]

Easy to get rid of material, more difficult to put it back lol

[flabum1017]

OK so i have learned the the Fillers are needed
Is there a way to run the above without the need for a machine shop ?????

If the exhaust fillers are not flush with the block, you will have leaks. Those fillers direct the exhaust into the tuned bubble back.Without them, no point in having the bubble back

[Umassot50]

Why dont you stop posting new threads about the same question.

Ive put the 135 stuffers and all the bubble back parts onto a 115 block that started life as a flat back. Machining is required. You need to drill and tap for the bolt holes that hold the exhaust fillers in. Then you install them. Bolted down. Then you need to skim the whole back of the block and the stuffers flat so everything seals, and is flat at the same height. You might as well machine out the rib in the block at the same time seen as it will need to be setup in a milling machine anyway.

[flabum1017]

Why dont you stop posting new threads about the same question.

Ive put the 135 stuffers and all the bubble back parts onto a 115 block that started life as a flat back. Machining is required. You need to drill and tap for the bolt holes that hold the exhaust fillers in. Then you install them. Bolted down. Then you need to skim the whole back of the block and the stuffers flat so everything seals, and is flat at the same height. You might as well machine out the rib in the block at the same time seen as it will need to be setup in a milling machine anyway.

Yup.....

Oh, and BTW, the 135 stuffers have a smaller bore that the 140", but anything can be machined

[Umassot50]

heres the block machined with stuffers installed. those are 135' but i opened them up to be more like the 140'. bubble back filler is matched up too. the rib is machined out and i removed the two extra bolts that are normally in the lower exhaust outlet.

[spybot]

Thanks Umassot50 now i see the difference The fillers make a Big difference to the space and the direction of flow from the exhaust.
So if i left out the bubble back will the carbs, stuffers and reeds make a big difference or will it just burn more fuel with no power gain ?????
At the end of the season the transformation will begin.
Regarding the same question on different threads
I want to learn from you guys the more i ask the more i learn.
There are many ways to ask the same question and every time you ask you get a different answer.
I just have to collate all the answers and make my decisions from there on.
I respect and i am great-full for the info you guys give to us newbies. Not only am i working on an outboard for the first time but the outboard is american so there is little to no support that i can call for on this side of the pond.
Hence i ask all the questions
So once again i ask what do you guys think of running with the carbs,stuffers high comp heads and sport reeds ?

[racer]

Carbs will be too big without exhaust and 135/140 porting

[racervboat]

stuffers on a stock motor like yours maybe needed not sure never tried it but when we raced formula vee mod we did not run them it was faster without them but this was a very modded motor.If you look at the block with the stuffers installed you will see how the outer exhaust ports have to do a very sharp turn without them all the ports flow right into the bubble back jmtc.

[faztbullet]

So once again i ask what do you guys think of running with the carbs,stuffers high comp heads and sport reeds ?

IMO wasted effort and crappy running motor.....

[spybot]

Once porting is done to match the 140 I will not raise the port hight. Should I just square them off and leave the corners with a 1/2 radius or go for 1/4 ???? I appreciate your time on this thread. I have read a lot of your threads and in puts. I take it all in and will follow your instructions to the letter. As I said I'm a total novice to the world of 2stroke outboards. I know how to port. I learned on old 2stroke motorcycles. So please advise on this.

[FMP]

Could always do a low parabolic to tighter corners, if worried about port width.