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04-19-2017, 05:43 PM #1
Painting Mid Section, Awgrip or Powdercoat?
I am rebuilding a mid section and was curious what coating is best. Should I prime and paint it with Black Awgrip or have it Powdercoated? Which has a history of holding up better in a salt water environment?
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04-21-2017, 04:03 AM #2Screaming And Flying!
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I have done several motors using dupont variprime, followed up with the awlgrip 545 anti corrosive primer and the original awlgrip top coat. Held up great...Powder coat imo would not have the corrosion resistance of the method I used.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-21-2017, 12:31 PM #3
Thanks, I have used all of those products in the past and Just wasn't sure about the powdercoat.
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04-21-2017, 02:03 PM #4
Mercury is now powder coating their engines, at least the larger sizes. FWIW, but the durability all comes from the prep. Coaters who can get used parts to match the durability that Merc has with their multi step process with new parts are few and far between. Paint on the other hand is easier to get right. That said, when powder is right there is nothing that comes close to it's durability.
> Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <
1979 16' Action Marine/2.5L Merc S3000 - Metalflake Maniac
1984 18' Contender Tunnel/2.4 Merc Bridgeport
"Where does the love of God go, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?"
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04-21-2017, 02:08 PM #5Screaming And Flying!
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Are the powder coaters doing a zinc prime now? I know they are advancing with the materials they have to use.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-21-2017, 02:54 PM #6
There are primers, including a epoxy, but I'm not sure who uses what. A big part of used parts is getting the contaminants out before you do anything. The few times I've had a powder coated part fail, it started because the original part had barely visible pock marks from oil and crap baking out during the curing process.
The guy who is the bible on the powder subject is Bud Conner, maybe he'll see this and chime in.> Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <
1979 16' Action Marine/2.5L Merc S3000 - Metalflake Maniac
1984 18' Contender Tunnel/2.4 Merc Bridgeport
"Where does the love of God go, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?"
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04-22-2017, 08:29 AM #7Screaming And Flying!
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Agree. Where is Bud? He's the man on this stuff.
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04-22-2017, 08:45 AM #8
I have no idea who is using what, either... but there are definitely zinc primer powdercoats available: https://www.tcipowder.com/truzinc-zi...g-primers.html
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06-10-2018, 06:17 PM #9
So what is the consensus? I was leaning powder coat, but I'm in fresh water and its just more convenient for me, drop off, they blast and paint and I pick up. Is there any good reason NOT to powdercoat a mid?
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06-10-2018, 06:39 PM #107000 RPM
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Once powder coat starts to peel or chip you can't touch it up. Paint can be sanded and fixed. Just a thought.
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07-07-2018, 03:47 PM #11
I own a powder coating business and if it is done right nothing will come close to powder coating. Its all in the prep work as well with Paint if you dont prep it correctly nothing is gonna last or look good. Another problem we have is people dont want to pay to get it done right when you give someone a price for doing Powder Coating the right way some tend to freak out but it isn't as easy as washing it and the powder coating it. You have to completely disassemble EVERYTHING then clean and strip and blast everything that is to be coated. Some shops I have seen just coat right over the bare sub-straight we on the other hand use a powder primer first then coat it with color. You also have to make sure that you stick to your cure programs as well to little time or to long in the oven can have a bad outcome with the finished part. So I guess what I'm trying to say is if you are going to get it powder coated or painted for that matter make sure you take it to someone who knows what they are doing and remember " You dont pay much you dont get much" so dont balk at a guy who charges a little more than the others he may just know what he is doing !!! and im sure Bud will agree with me about this.
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07-13-2018, 09:22 AM #12
I am a total novice when it comes to painting
After a couple of attempts with rattle cans that looked good but didnt last, I finally bit the bullet and painted my motor with a cheap polyurethane from the automotive paint store. Completely disassembled and bead blasted all parts and primed with an etching primer.(dont remember which one,its been 6 yrs) then sprayed with PPG Shop-Line single stage Chrysler black. call it beginners luck but the results were a better finish than the factory paint and extremely durable. I just followed the instructions and used the recommended reducer and activator. My spray gun was a throwaway Harbor freight HVLP touch up gun with an inline moisture filter that all together was about $35
Motor is run mostly in brackish and saltwater and looks as good as the day i painted itlimited skills
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07-13-2018, 12:45 PM #13The Historic Photo Master
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