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Thread: 2008 Suburban cam replacement
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01-25-2017, 12:50 PM #1
2008 Suburban cam replacement
I'm ordering everything now to replace the cam and lifters and do an AFM delete. It is a 5.3 litre engine. Is there enough room in front of the engine to remove the cam without removing the AC condenser? Or am I better off removing the engine?
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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01-25-2017, 01:14 PM #2Screaming And Flying!
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Pull the mota
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flabum1017 thanked for this post
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02-04-2017, 12:53 AM #3
There is enough room, we don't pull motors when doing. Pretty sure the guys aren't pulling the condenser. If lifter has already failed recommend replacing oil pump or at least pull down to inspect. Have seen pieces of debris get in pressure valve and stick. And replace pick up tube o-ring.
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flabum1017 thanked for this postCapt.Insane-o liked this post
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02-04-2017, 07:46 AM #4
The oil pressure had dropped to 20 PSI at idle (40 at 2000 rpm) when the lifter began to make real noise. I had already planned on doing the oil pump and drop the pan and pull a couple rod caps and main caps to inspect for debris. I'll have an AC shop depressurize the system and cap off the lines and condenser just in case I have to get the condenser out.. Thanks for the replies ....................
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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02-04-2017, 09:47 AM #5
Just verified that there is enough room without removing condenser.
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02-04-2017, 11:50 AM #6
cool, thanks, saves the trouble of pulling the motor, once all the accessories are off the front of the motor, I can stand in front of it to do the cam and lifters.
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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02-04-2017, 12:29 PM #7
How much do you think this will cost to do?
LC9 should be the non-AFM 5.3L motor?
http://www.genuinegmparts.com/powertrain-parts/engines
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02-04-2017, 12:53 PM #8Screaming And Flying!
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Pull the motor , you never know what you'll find and its easier to set up on a stand.
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02-04-2017, 12:59 PM #9
I got the cam, lifters and gaskets for $500 and the oil pump and head bolts and misc parts will be another 300. Will send the heads out to be freshened up and probably will do the rear seal if I pull the motor. I'll probably have a grand in parts, a couple hundred in the heads and my labor.
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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David - WI thanked for this post
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02-04-2017, 03:19 PM #105000 RPM
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ive pulled the motor out of a 2500hd with an 8.1 without removing the AC condenser, I just turned it 90 degrees out of the way.
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02-04-2017, 05:03 PM #11
I've decide to go ahead and remove the engine, may as well do the rear main seal too. Right now I'm at about $800 with all the parts. I have to send the computer out for programming since I can't find anyone down here who comes recommended (weird for Ft Lauderdale). That will be another $100 or so. Then, since I had rotator cuff surgery back in December, will have to hire a helper for another couple hundred.....Still far less than the $4,000 - $7,000 estimate from around town. How the hell can Chevy think your'e gonna put that kind of money into 9 - 10 year old vehicle; you would think those engines would be more affordable by now.
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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02-05-2017, 10:27 PM #12
Rock Auto has a rebuilt long block for $1200, so if I get this thing out and apart and find too much damage, I'll just order the long block and swap everything over.
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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David - WI liked this post
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02-11-2017, 06:58 PM #13
Well, got the motor out, took 8 hours. Not bad considering I'm at 7 weeks past rotator cuff surgery and all my help bailed so I had to do it by myself. Found the noise maker, was one of the non-afm lifters. Looks like something got in the roller and it skidded, Will have to tear it the rest of the way down and see if I'm in it for bearings too.......
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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FMP liked this post
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02-11-2017, 07:47 PM #14Screaming And Flying!
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That lifter bore may need a sleeve, decided to keep the hood on .
Last edited by FMP; 02-11-2017 at 08:27 PM.
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02-11-2017, 10:07 PM #15
Didn't get a good look at the bore yet, was getting late and I was very sore from the day. Will get a good look at it tomorrow. I figure I'll pop a couple rod caps and main caps to see if there's any bearing damage. Will put new cam bearings for sure. What are you using for cam lube on these roller lifters? I always have use STP engine treatment mixed with oil, seems to stay on until fire up....
Left the hood on because I had to remove the intake to get to the top transmission bolts and the intake being off gave me enough room for the cherry picker to get to it."One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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