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Thread: 1971 Donzi Classic 18 power....
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02-04-2017, 05:11 PM #106Screaming And Flying!
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My opinion based on that and 70 mph top speed is you can delay the external hydraulic steering until the following year. This will help maintain your budget and ensure you like everything an 18 Classic represents before you dig into the bank again.
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02-04-2017, 06:32 PM #1075000 RPM
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02-04-2017, 06:47 PM #108
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Classic18 thanked for this postdelawarerick liked this post
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02-04-2017, 06:47 PM #109Screaming And Flying!
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Yep, 100% agree.
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02-08-2017, 09:25 PM #1105000 RPM
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Need to get the appx outdrive location....setting up according to Merc specs, my prop center comes about 8" from the bottom of the hull. Is there a chance one of you have a production (non modified) outdrive in a Classic 18 that you could measure the prop center line to hull bottom for me? I have a Bravo One. ..thank you
Last edited by Classic18; 02-08-2017 at 09:32 PM.
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02-13-2017, 09:37 AM #1115000 RPM
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Am getting ready to place my engine and am thinking exhaust. Are the standard Mercruiser really bad for back pressure or are they "ok"? If not, any suggestions for a good averaged price exhaust manifold and riser?
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02-13-2017, 10:43 AM #112Screaming And Flying!
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Noticed a thread a day or two back, small block performance ex manifolds.
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02-14-2017, 05:26 AM #1135000 RPM
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02-14-2017, 06:13 AM #1145000 RPM
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Onto the motor
Now onto the engine. This Engine was removed from the from the donor boat that I had bought from an owner that indicated he had some engine repairs done and then later found out the stringers were rotted. After pulling the engine down, it seems that at least one of the eight cylinders were not firing and the piston actually looks brand-new. Additionally, it looks like they are 30 over. Interested in any thoughts regarding keeping this arrangement, or boring out a little more...quite the conundrum
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02-14-2017, 05:44 PM #115
Those blocks suck. A good machinist will look at you funny if you want to go more than .040 over.
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02-14-2017, 07:04 PM #1165000 RPM
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02-14-2017, 07:10 PM #117Supporting Member
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Classic18 thanked for this postCapt.Insane-o liked this post
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02-14-2017, 07:29 PM #118
They are a production gm block made for ~250 hp. They have thin decks and cylinder liners, both of which get thinner every season in a fresh water cooled engine. The lifter bores aren't even close to being centered etc and several other things. This is why I was leading you to someone who builds marine engines proper. Things that can be got away with in Jimmies bitchin' Camaro don't work well in boats.
Example this is a block that has had the lifter bores straightened out squared up and sleeved.
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Greg G liked this post
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02-14-2017, 07:45 PM #119Screaming And Flying!
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Classic18, please don't take this the wrong way but you would really be far better off in the short and long run IMO seeing what prices you get on Merc CPO stuff. I can't tell you how many times I have seen folks start to get into an engine build and when they are all done it is twice the amount they planned on. If you keep the notebook and really write down all the costs you'd be amazed at how things can add up. Just saying look at the almost new marine options completely. There is a lot of stuff out there in car/marine motors that would be plug and play. Now back to the regular programming and good luck.
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02-14-2017, 08:49 PM #1205000 RPM
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Thank you for the comments...I understand and appreciate the points you make. I'd love to buy a fully-built racing marine engine, but the funds just aren't there. When I talk to my buddy about what needs to be done, I'll make these points. He isn't quite a boy racer, he does build most of the race engines used by many of the guys I run... he is not an expert marine builder, but is concerned about the loads seen in marine applications that aren't there even in race car motors. I'll write up what he suggests....
DaveLast edited by Classic18; 02-14-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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