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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by olboatman View Post
    This thread is becomming very interesting...... I have aways believed the how 2 stroke oil is used is far more important than the brand or type as long as it is high quality and has the proper rating (TC-W3 etc.) As far as rejetting I have never seen a problem using more oil as long as the jetting wasn't already on the edge. I remember using Chemlube (one of the first 2 stroke synthetics) back in the early 70s in my sled at 7k plus rpm at 25 to 1 with no problems or plug issues even with stone age ignitions.
    Yep been there, done that! Don't think I ever ran anything 2s more that 40-1 and never a prob! Never forget.."more oil is better than less oil"!

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark75H View Post
    5%? who is running 20:1 and having trouble? Merc ran the T2's there with no problem.

    Its just not related. Fuel ratio to air is fuel ratio to air, whether the fuel is gasoline or tar.

    Compounded by ... the tiny amout of oil involved. I challenge anyone to see a 2% change in mixture strength without a pyrometer or O2 sensor ... and even then I'd put the chances at 50/50 accuracy at 2% change. And as I said, the oil is not zero on any scale. AND this theoretical 2% mixture strength change would depend on the oil being 100% non combustable; this is not the case either.

    If the octane rating of the oil was zero, the maximum octane change of changing from 50:1 to 25:1 would be slightly more than 2 numbers. Some synthetic oils actually claim to be (and probably are) octane increasers rather than neutral or decrease. Oil is not zero octane, so there is NOT a 2 number drop in the rating of a stronger oil mixture.
    Spot on Sam, spot on!

  3. #33
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    I wonder if a diesel will run on tcw

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    i wonder if a diesel will run on tcw
    Sure! Maybe a thin out fri grease?

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  6. #35
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    Plenty of people here running diesels on fry grease, biggest problem is cold weather. That is a whole 'nother topic!

    Sam is spot on.

    pointer

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  8. #36
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    I have 5 diesels.
    1 Sprinter inline 5 cylinder
    3 - 7.3 powerstrokes
    2 - 6.0 powerstrokes
    I live in Minnesota. Its way too risky to play the grease game up here because of winter. Most people that experiment with that crap end up failing and destroying their engines.
    In my opinion, the other idiots dump used tranny fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid in their tanks because you can burn that crap with no mods. I don't like the idea of blowing those fluids out the tailpipe.
    Like all motors they run best when left stock. Same goes for diesel boats. its bad enough we blow the exhaust in the water, it would be even worse if we were dumping that other crap into the waters.

  9. #37
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    I have run an F350 diesel Ford over 200,000 miles on filtered vegetable oil with no problems. My truck has a heated nine a gallon fuel tank, heated fuel lines, and a heated filter. Solenoid valves are used to start on diesel and warm up, switch to grease, and switch back to diesel before shut down. This system purges all the fuel lines and motor of any grease before shut down...sorry to sub overt the thread...

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  11. #38
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    Agree Chris, and your in Florida. I'm an hour above Maine. By the end of October the temps dip below freezing, and it only gets colder until February.
    The only people I know doing it in winter drive 45+ mins a day, and use a system much like you do.

    pointer

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  13. #39
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    who is going to run tcw in their diesel so we get a test done?

  14. #40
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    Hi guys,
    To "retrack" this thread : I built and raced the motors (Chrysler 4 cyl crossflow and OMC looper 3 cyl) for our European "Marathon" (2 to 6 hour) races in the second half of the sixties, when the new super duper synthetic oils (100 to 1) appeared on the market. Turned out the famous Evinrude XD was the Castrol Synthetic rebranded.
    We ran the Chryslers (at the time famous for burnt head gaskets and pistons) and OMC loopers at 23 to 1, and never experienced any problems. Right now, i am building a `98 Force 4 cyl balls to the wall race motor,
    and will be using any high perf oil i can lay my hands on, but 23 to 1!
    Rgds, Wolfgang (South Africa)

  15. #41
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    Hey there Wolf
    Good thread you've brought back up.
    You're going to keep the motor happy no doubt.
    Will you mix up a special fuel or are you required to specific use as is?

  16. #42
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    I have a 1939 Eveninrude 3.2hp and the sticker says to mix 1 quart of 30wt motor oil to 1 gallon of gas
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Screenshot_20220127-190626_Gallery.jpg  

  17. #43
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    who has tested increasing oil ratio and power output?
    There was an old bike engine test years ago, they got power gains down to 16:1 then ran out of jets as it was leaning out.
    the calorific value of the oil must be a factor?
    and your ring to bore sealing
    Last edited by powerabout; 01-28-2022 at 06:27 AM.

  18. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill636 View Post
    I have a 1939 Eveninrude 3.2hp and the sticker says to mix 1 quart of 30wt motor oil to 1 gallon of gas
    4 to 1 ratio..LOL
    "Whacker Smacker" #561 IHBA M/E div1 2007& 2006 first looser champion
    2007 Sportsmen Driver of the Year

  19. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    who has tested increasing oil ratio and power output?
    There was an old bike engine test years ago, they got power gains down to 16:1 then ran out of jets as it was leaning out.
    the calorific value of the oil must be a factor?
    and your ring to bore sealing
    Calorific value of most lube oils is very close to fuel oil/kerosene. Hard to believe you could lean an engine out by adding lube oil. My guess would be very tall boots were needed. You could certainly start to run into octane demand problems, but I seriously doubt the calorific value claims.

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