3.6 GT powerhead details

[Hillclimber]

Hi

Here is a picture of the exhaust end of my V8.

The two ports I am trying to identify, not on the OMC drawing(s), are opposite the 2" figure on the rule at the outside of the exhaust manifold. These ports end about half way along the exhaust casting and the only water connection I can locate are 4 x 1/4" holes that are drilled allowing water to enter (or return) these ports from the cylinder cavity. Any ideas?

[Hillclimber]

My next area of research is how to achieve the correct water temperature (as per "Racer's advice) for engine cooling.
Does anybody know the pumping rate (US Gal/min) of the V8 water pump, at what pressure, at what RPM?
I am looking at small radiators with CO2 "Spray" to get down to the required lowish temperature in a 90F environment. The CO2 is injected in front of the rad and controlled by temperature activated solenoid valve.

[FUJIMO]

[FUJIMO]

[FUJIMO]

[FUJIMO]

[racer]

Rectangle at tape measure is exhaust as are the 2 squares right in front of tape, everything else is water intake except the 2 holes about 1/2 inch by 1.5 which are water exit.

[Hillclimber]

Some time since I posted but project now gathering momentum. Just got the 8 new Mikuni carbs(no float chambers) which fit well onto the original throttle bodies. I am removing the butterflies from the Mikunis as connecting 8 of them together into a single operating lever is/was a difficult task. Spare engine shell + CVT now located in the car, fitted perfectly. Also solved the problem of getting oil to the five main crank bearings(horizontal crank location) by drilling 3/16" holes to connect the original priming ports to the bearing housings. Then using a Rotax oil injection pump to supply the oil at pressure to a 5 outlet manifold. Oil flow can be adjusted. I now have the 4" adapter plate which has helped sort out the cooling water flows & returns. I am now replacing the flywheel(incl. CDI) with the CVT primary pulley. Whilst I am still looking at the Megasquirt to control the new ignition system, can anyone recommend a suitable, ignition only, engine management system + new coils etc.

[powerabout]

https://electromotive.com/product-category/xdi-ignition-systems-restricted/

used here
ww. boat racing facts. com/forums/showthread.php?6393-Mercury-Mark-40-H&p=136141&highlight=ignition#post136141

you need to go from idle to max advance the instant you kit the throttle hence still going mechanical advance ( like it was) is the simplest way and also to control idle speed.
PS you will need 2 of them to cover 8 cyl

[Hillclimber]

The V8 is now fully assembled and installed in the car. I finally built my own ignition system using a M & W CDI ECU which takes my 8 Hall sensor signals and via 8 new coils gives me a 44,000 V spark. I made a manually rotating disc for the Hall sensors which can rotate between the 4 and 16 degree BTDC positions.
I also found a very small medical pump to supply oil to the 5 main bearings. Volume pumped varies with voltage to motor from 2 to 6V. I made the system to operate the 8 Mikuni carbs from a single cable pull - similar to the OMC system. Startup looks to be mid April. 1st race is in June.

[Hillclimber]

Project has been delayed, only waiting to finish a new flywheel and ready to run. My new ignition system tested and runs OK as does the oiling system for the crank bearings.

Surprisingly I have 3 requests to supply the ignition "kit of parts" - the circular disc which holds the 8 Hall sensors (it rotates from 4 to 16 degree BTDC), the 8 sensors plus magnet - 8 ignition coils for 44,000v spark, the ignition module which takes the Hall sensor signal and sends medium voltage signals to the coils. The module is partially pre-wired.

Cost: US$3600 delivered USA excluding any import tax's.

Some details on attached photo

[rude tim]

You will need to adapt some kind of bearing support for the other side of the drive. I do not think that the crank will withstand that type of load! The upper main bearing is designed to withstand the two rods and a flywheel only (no pulling at a 90 degree from the main). I believe that that drive will cause crank shaft deflection and take out your rod bearing and break the crank. Looking at the picture above may be if you have the room to move the drive to a seperate shaft with two bearings driven by a spline off the crank?

[Hillclimber]

Yep all planned - here is the secondary pulley arrangement. To race, I have to pass a static noise test. No pass, no race. So I have used the original splined drive shaft - shifter dog clutch. Shaft diameter is ground by 50 thou to fit the CVT pulley, 1/4" keyway cut in, and I made the "Female" dog clutch inside the adapter which bolts directly onto the differential flange with a bronze support bearing inside. The shaft at the non drive end will be supported in bearings, The Primary CVT pulley on the end of the crank likewise, plus a link between the two shafts to set the 11 1/2" required for correct belt tension. The dog clutch will be operated by a "Lever" from the driver seat.

[HaulNbass]

Would a service manual help you any?

[H2OPERF]

I put direct oil to each of the mains on the v6 im building , i used an optimax oil pump ,they are 12v solenoid type with 7 tiny pistons that send out about a droplet of oil evenly to a 3/16 hose with each pulse. Not sure how your going to distribute the oil but these are readily avail used on ebay fairly cheap. Dave