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  1. #31
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    The last thing I want to do is to discourage you, but to be aware of the possibilities. Up to now your out of pocket is not to bad. And the process of you working through the various challenges is remarkable for a guy who is not familiar with the motor he is working on... .
    You know some things about the IL 6 that that some don't that probably have them. I still like your analysis and diagnosis skills with the ignition system .

    No one has a way of knowing how long to run that motor for a prove out...that could have so many variables. Ideally it should be under load, but that option is off the table right now. And no, wide open is not good for any motor unloaded. I always chuckle when I hear someone unnecessarily "rev one up" in neutral. A good burnout is OK and a good hole shot in a boat is OK, the motor is loaded.

    It is possible that the bearings are fine. No real way to tell quick and easy, with out an exploratory look see. As an easy possible help, maybe increase the oil ratio to 32:1 or so. May do nothing, but for this purpose...it won't hurt.

    The line of thought for caution is I believe...If that motor sat long outside in the elements, where ever the rotating assembly came to rest when last turned off, it is likely that one or more cylinders has open ports to exhaust, or intake. This "might" allow "the elements" of outside air to dry out/bring moisture inside the motors internal parts. One reason some people cover exhaust and carb/throttle body openings when stored...outside at least. Especially one that sets long enough to dry out. "Most guys "pickle" the motors if they know they are going to be dormant for any length of time. Especially if kept outside.

    Maybe another way to consider is what your plans are for the boat you got. If you are going to make it a boat to keep, then no matter what you will need to power it with something.
    So if the Power trim works well, and the motor runs well enough on the hose, maybe locate a LU for it. Search the for sale section here. I would feel better buying from the group of men here on this list than eBay, but that's just my opinion.

    So after that you have a known good midsection, lower unit, and run the power head and hope for the best. IF the power head dies...so be it. Those are around as well.

    jmho...

    My hat goes off to your sir...you are doing well !!

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  3. #32
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    Hello James. Thanks to your earlier advice, I was able to loosen that pinion gear nut last night! Since the season is almost over, I'm thinking I might just do the test run on the power head in the yard on a hose, then finish most of the re-assembly (just the shrouds, and some wiring), then fog the motor and put her to bed for the winter.

    That way I can bide my time either finding a decent lower unit priced attractively, or start toying with the repair of my current parts.

    Here is part 41 with a better look at the prop shaft:

  4. #33
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    I am not aware of any sleeve for that prop shaft bearing surface, maybe for the sealing area.... But that by no means someone doesn't do it.
    I think the problem lies in that shaft is a high stress area, and any welding, plasma spraying, etc. will change the hardness of the shaft.

    Maybe there is a process..I don't know of any.
    That LU housing really looks like it's time to give it to the wife for a planter...

    How did the drive shaft look? Another area of possible concern is where the seals ride below the water pump. And there is a "speedy Sleeve" type patch for that.

    My guess is ALL the bearings are toast. That gear in the carrier is a caged ball bearing, and you can use split plates to extract the gear and bearing "should" come out as a unit...Not always,but most of the time.

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  5. #34
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    Time for a good used lower unit. I admire your willingness to fix it. But its going to be more work than its worth to fix it.

    That prop shaft is shot as well. It may run for awhile but that rough surface will wear out your bearing quickly.

    C
    L6fan57-88

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  7. #35
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    I agree. Have not had time to hunt for one lately. I'll be posting a video showing the crack from the inside. It goes right through where the o ring seats.

  8. #36
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    Part 42:

  9. #37
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    If it were me I would look for a 2-1 gear ratio lower unit for that sized boat. The 1.78 that yours came with will be hard to find and you will have to use lower pitch props to get it to work proper on that boat. 2-1 is almost everywhere for sale. You can snag a good ready to run 2-1 1500/1150 gearcase for $250-300. And of course cheaper fixer uppers too.
    L6fan57-88

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  11. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkdud View Post
    If it were me I would look for a 2-1 gear ratio lower unit for that sized boat. The 1.78 that yours came with will be hard to find and you will have to use lower pitch props to get it to work proper on that boat. 2-1 is almost everywhere for sale. You can snag a good ready to run 2-1 1500/1150 gearcase for $250-300. And of course cheaper fixer uppers too.
    Thanks. I'm going to try and find something local because I'm not sure what will fit. I figure if I buy local I can bring mine to compare. Also, I've seen some that included the power trim unit and I have no clue if that'll fit my power head. I did notice that the non power trim gear case has the cam device on top of where the shift shaft enters into the case. And mine is broken.

    Confusion has set in.

  12. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevewatr View Post
    Thanks. I'm going to try and find something local because I'm not sure what will fit. I figure if I buy local I can bring mine to compare. Also, I've seen some that included the power trim unit and I have no clue if that'll fit my power head. I did notice that the non power trim gear case has the cam device on top of where the shift shaft enters into the case. And mine is broken.
    Confusion has set in.
    All inline 6 Full Gear Shift units will fit. This means anything after 1962. Power trim is an accessory that can be added to any of them. It is highly desirable.

  13. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark75H View Post
    All inline 6 Full Gear Shift units will fit. This means anything after 1962. Power trim is an accessory that can be added to any of them. It is highly desirable.
    So All I have to make sure of is the shaft length? I also noticed some drive shafts have a pin at the top.

    Steve.

  14. #41
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    Here is Part 44 where I give the motor a good test run:

  15. #42
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    Well I scored a used gear case. It is the style with the preload pin on the drive shaft. It looks to be in decent shape, but it is a different gear ratio:

  16. #43
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    Just means you need props with an inch or two more pitch

  17. #44
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    Well, I have another one that needs work if you need another project...1984 1150 IL6.

    Awesome what you have accomplished......I know nothing about them.

    Karsten
    Last edited by Karsten; 10-01-2016 at 08:43 PM.

  18. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karsten View Post
    Well, I has another one that needs work if you need another project...1984 1150 IL6.

    Awesome what you have accomplished......I know nothing about them.

    Karsten
    Wish I lived closer...I would love to dissect/repair one. My Dad had an 84 115, but I never got to work on it.

    I think they look and sound cool...
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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