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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkdud View Post
    Did you salvage the lower unit?
    Hi. I'm in the process of making a tool to remove the large retaining nut.

    Steve.

  2. #17
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    Well in an attempt to save you time (and maybe the LU housing) Soaking it in some kind of penetrating oil for a few days "might" help, or some heat. But before you use heat I would drill the cover nut and take it out in sections.

    ...If that was a saltwater motor (or not)...and being as old as it is...and in the event it is corroded (which is likely), even if you get the nut to move, you will likely wipe any remaining usable threads in the housing negating any possibility of a rebuild/repair....
    So if it wont budge with marginal effort I suggest drilling the cover nut in about 6 to 8 evenly spaced spots on the nut. There should be a stainless retainer/lock washer behind the nut, so you wont drill into the carrier...unless you really try..

    Now you can take a screw driver or prying tool and remove the cover nut in sections from the housing with the least amount of thread damage...the cover nuts are a whole lot cheaper than the housing.

    Actually I think I have a new one for an inline 6 LU I'll give you if you need it.

    Good Luck
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by W2F a V-King View Post
    Well in an attempt to save you time (and maybe the LU housing) Soaking it in some kind of penetrating oil for a few days "might" help, or some heat. But before you use heat I would drill the cover nut and take it out in sections.

    ...If that was a saltwater motor (or not)...and being as old as it is...and in the event it is corroded (which is likely), even if you get the nut to move, you will likely wipe any remaining usable threads in the housing negating any possibility of a rebuild/repair....
    So if it wont budge with marginal effort I suggest drilling the cover nut in about 6 to 8 evenly spaced spots on the nut. There should be a stainless retainer/lock washer behind the nut, so you wont drill into the carrier...unless you really try..

    Now you can take a screw driver or prying tool and remove the cover nut in sections from the housing with the least amount of thread damage...the cover nuts are a whole lot cheaper than the housing.

    Actually I think I have a new one for an inline 6 LU I'll give you if you need it.

    Good Luck
    Hello. Wish I had a crystal ball and could see this good advice coming. So I finished my home made tool, and last night tried to remove the nut. I did see the little locking tab that has to be bent clear, and I did soak it with PB blaster during the couple days I used to make the tool. My tool is just a collar with lugs on it, and I grab the collar to turn it with a bug old pipe wrench. I could not get good leverage in my small vise since it's not bolted down, and I wouldn't want top try too hard since I might bend or break the skeg.

    So I put it on the shop floor, and tried holding it down with my foot. Still no movement. Then I tried heat......only a propane torch in fear of damaging the housing. Still no movement. I was going to lug my big vise into the shop and bolt it too my bench to hold the housing by the beefier part.

    I went online and tried to find any tips, and saw references to the method you suggest above. Since they were for other models, and there were no pics of it being done, I was not sure I was reading it right. But now that you have suggested it, I'm more inclined to go that route. But before I do this, I just need clarification.

    I drill holes while avoiding the threads in the housing, and this will weaken the aluminum nut enough to allow it to be pried inward towards the shaft, peeling it away from the threads, correct?

    Also, won't I end up drilling into the lock washer behind it? Or is it just assumed that the nut is replaced with a new lock washer??

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    Oh, and by all means I'm interested in that nut if you have it.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevewatr View Post

    I drill holes while avoiding the threads in the housing, and this will weaken the aluminum nut enough to allow it to be pried inward towards the shaft, peeling it away from the threads, correct? YES

    Also, won't I end up drilling into the lock washer behind it? NO, unless your persistant...it is stainless or it is on the V6 motors. You can judge your depth and be careful anyway. Or is it just assumed that the nut is replaced with a new lock washer?? No, replacement nuts don't come with that, it is reusable.

    Thanks,

    Steve.

    Oh, and by all means I'm interested in that nut if you have it.
    It's yours..pm me with your address and I'll send it out first of this week.

    Also, save the heating process for pulling that carrier out. It's gonna be stuck too. And a propane torch will not get enough heat quick enough in the area you need it. By the time you get enough heat with propane (IF you get enough) your area of focus is to large.

    Acetylene and oxygen will work, but you have to be very careful heating aluminum enough to get it to expand enough to overcome the corroded bond. One minute your heating it.....and the next second it's gone.... If you are unfamiliar with this, maybe you know someone who can show you. Your gonna need the bearing carrier extraction tool to keep enough pulling force or pressure on the carrier to get it out.

    Once it begins to move..keep it moving until it's free...don't stop just because it moved a hair....It's an easier job for two people, one applying the heat focused on that and the other keeping the pulling pressure on the extraction tool.

    I can take a picture of mine carrier extractor and post it if you like, maybe you can use your machinist skills to fabricate one...don't think I would use a slide hammer as I know some do, unless your planning on a new carrier...JMO

    HTH

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  7. #20
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    Thanks for the tips James. I'll give it a try. As for the heat, I do have any oxy/acetylene setup, but do not have a rosebud, only welding and cutting tips, so I worried about melting the case. PM with address on it's way.

    Steve.

  8. #21
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    The Mercury sees direct sunlight for the first time in months.


  9. #22
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    It's alive!!! Looks like this old mercury isn't done with life just yet

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  11. #23
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    That's great!!

    Don't think you need to worry to much about excessive water pressure going into the power head, unless you have an awful lot at the hose. There is a pop-it valve ( if like the V6 motors ) that will open and purge excess pressure.

    And depending how the tell tale is plumbed, you may not get that flow until the thermostats open..I have never worked on an InLine 6 so I am guessing here.

    But it sure looks like you may have saved a great motor from the grave yard, or parts bin.

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  12. #24
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    No poppet valve, no thermostat

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  14. #25
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    Dirt in the telltale exit passage is usually the problem. Resolved with a stiff piece of wire pushed up into the motor

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  16. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark75H View Post
    Dirt in the telltale exit passage is usually the problem. Resolved with a stiff piece of wire pushed up into the motor
    And that's exactly what it was. Ran some wire up there and viola!

    Tearing into the gear case now. Having trouble getting the lower part of the water pump housing off the case. Seems stuck on there. Didn't want to pry too hard since it's only plastic. I'd like to remove it before I weld the cracks in the case. I'm also having trouble removing the nut that holds the pinion gear on the drive shaft.

    Here is video of the motor running a little longer, and me checking the timing……..2 degrees.

  17. #27
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    There are several ways to remove that pinion nut. Mine is a bit primitive, but it has always worked for me.

    I mount the drive shaft in my vise sideways with soft jaw protection...(I use 2 small blocks of hard wood..hickory I think). Then rotate the housing so the opening is facing you, put your box end wrench down inside on the nut (7/8" if memory serves... V6 motors anyway) and rotate the housing to contact the wrench and twist the lower unit....It will loosen the nut. (On the install later, I add a small drop of red loctite to the threads)

    Don't take the nut all the way off, leave it screwed on several turns.. Take a block of wood and place it on the top of the housing right up close to the drive shaft and use a large hammer and tap the wood pretty firmly. This will break the taper fit loose between the gear and shaft. Done.

    (The part of leaving the nut on a few threads keeps the LU from getting loose and away from you) Careful removing the shaft, there will be a dozen or so large roller bearings to fall out...DO NOT use a magnet to collect them, unless you are going to replace them...recommended.

    As a side note..The inline 6 Lower Unit must have a different shifting mechanism than the V6 ones. V6 LU you need to be in neutral and the shift shaft removed to extract the prop shaft....said this to address the process of removing the bearing carrier by mounting the prop shaft in the vise and beat...er I mean...persuade the housing away from the carrier...Honestly, never tried that...guess it's because I have the carrier extraction tool...but good to know!!

    Also the water pump housing is just a friction fit with a large oring seal. Usually two medium size screw drivers prying up on it from opposing sides will get it to lift.

    You've come a long way with this...you have a good amount of determination

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  19. #28
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    Thanks James!

  20. #29
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    Just watched video 40, and I'm leaning towards finding a replacement LU. The broken carrier is one thing, but the server pitting I saw on the prop shaft is not good. Yea, it's likely the water that froze, broke the case, then allowed the oil to leak out and the water going in did what it does best when it gets to where it doesn't belong = Rust.

    I also don't believe that is a steel sleeve inside the case. I have never done an IN LU but can't imagine that being correct. Have done V6 mers and some OMC LU's and not seen that. Doesn't mean yours doesn't..

    So far...

    The case needs welding... And that's ify, if the weld need be where that carrier oring rides. Not impossible, just not easy.
    You need a carrier...
    You need a prop shaft...
    Seal kit...
    Water pump....kit or complete assembly...
    AND not sure what hasn't been looked at yet...likely more...I see a lot of rust.


    Curious to see how it all cleans up, but a new/used LU might be your best/easiest way out.

    One other thing that "KrazyKirk" mentioned in post #5 is a very real threat. The part about the engine bearings having some rust due to setting outside in the elements has a lot of merit, AND is great advice..!!

    You have done well getting the motor to run this far , and it sounds good. BUT before you go any further, maybe hook it back up to the hose and let it run for a long time. Seeing as how it's a difficult motor to access a view of the rod bearings. If the crank journals are rusted/pitted your done anyway with that rotating assembly, and letting it run for a good long time on the hose "may" prove that out good or bad. If it continues to run good and no "problems/noises" you "might" be good to go?

    Best option is to actually tear the motor down for inspection.

    It's a gamble to guess the bearing are OK.

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  22. #30
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    More looks coming in the next video. I'm getting discouraged. I just can't bring myself to tear that motor open. If I run a hose to it instead of recirculation the water it should stay cool enough to run a while. How long should I run it, and at what throttle setting? Not wide open I hope!

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