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Thread: New to me 23' Eliminator Daytona
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11-09-2016, 09:52 PM #316000 RPM
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My 30's have 1.25" vent holes as well. The 24's don't have vent holes. Either holeshot like a drag car as the lower unit ratio is 1.81.
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11-09-2016, 11:19 PM #32
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11-09-2016, 11:51 PM #336000 RPM
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Good question....I have a neoprene jacket and always wear the lanyard. I'd very much like to not need them though.
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11-10-2016, 11:06 AM #34
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11-12-2016, 10:24 AM #35
i think i was 3 in above with 14 inch setback water pickups on center pod on my 23 ,turning out choppers never worked boat got naughty at 75
cleavers made a great difference it would settle down and easier to drive , make sure the last 3 feet of sponson have no hook a lot of them did that is only pic i have of back of boat i wish i had a lower pic so you could see propshaft height ,maybe by looking at how hi the motor's look on boat might help the set back brackets were adjustableLast edited by eli; 11-12-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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04-21-2017, 08:29 PM #366000 RPM
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Resurrecting the old thread....got mine back out there with the motors mounted all the way up (shaft cl even with sponson). I also put the 30" bravo1's on. Still proposing around 65. I've had this boat together for 3-4 years and never been able to get much over 75 with it. I'm a little frustrated.
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04-21-2017, 10:36 PM #37
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04-21-2017, 10:42 PM #386000 RPM
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I have Bob's cones and lwp's.
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05-17-2017, 08:13 PM #39
raise motor's 1/4 inch at time and test
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05-22-2017, 02:56 AM #405000 RPM
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it is what it is, and all it will ever be !!!
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06-16-2017, 05:42 PM #416000 RPM
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Good news, guys, finally got past the hop. I'm not even sure what happened but he boat flew beautifully today. 30" bravo1's trimmed level and was hard on the rev limiters at 88 mph gps. There were 2 differences today, one being the boat was lighter than normal due to the fuel tanks being nearly empty. Also, before I was trying to sneak past the hop by gently accelerating. Today I accidentally figured this out by opening the throttle wot for a quick blast, looked at the speedo and it was showing 85. I didn't even realize I was going that fast!
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06-18-2017, 07:31 AM #42
Glad you were finally able to "get on top", isn't that an awesome feeling?
Still wondering where your propshaft centerlines ended up when trimmed level with the bottom of the sponson. The prop only knows the water that is hitting it, so generally a good reference is to use a digital level, set it to alternate zero on your sponson in front of the GC, set the level with the same alternate zero on your propshaft until level, then take a long straightedge on the bottom of your sponson and measure where the center of the nose of your GC is in relation to the straightedge. This will get you the propshaft height to bottom measurement.
Got access to 32's? Sounds like you might have a fun summer experimenting with moving weight around and trying props. Stay safe, good luck!A problem is only a problem when viewed as a problem...
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06-18-2017, 01:07 PM #436000 RPM
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yes! I was grinning ear to ear. I got the boat because I didn't like constantly fighting my old chine-walking vee, so flying the Daytona at 80+ without having to white-knuckle it plus having time to look at gauges was a pleasure!
I set the boat level using a machinist level, then trimmed to get the prop shafts level. Using this method, the CL of the prop shafts are even with the bottom of the sponson directly inline with the Lu.
I don't, but that may not be enough. I think 32's would only get me to about 95 and the boat has power to go well over 100 I believe.
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06-18-2017, 02:29 PM #44Member
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Awesome! I figured I would check in to SnF today with rain looming overhead. I smiled as I read EngineerMike's post.
Beer will not solve all of your problems... but neither will milk!
2005 Lightning 18' Action - 150 Optimax - SOLD
1982 Eliminator Daytona 23' - Twin 260's - SOLD
2012 Concept 32FE - Twin 300 Verados
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06-19-2017, 09:02 PM #456000 RPM
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Guys, got a question. My steering tie rod is female threaded both ends, reverse on one end. One end has a jam nut, and the other does not. I figure this is to allow you to trim one engine independent of the other without putting the tie rod in a bind. However, on the end without the jam nut, the threads have more play in them than I like. It doesn't seem like it would take too much force to pull the remaining threads out. Anyone else have experience with this?
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