Help me make my Glen L Stiletto Wooden boat FASTER!! (Advice needed)

[80's old school]

Based on your measurements, I'd say you can move the motor up quite a bit - assuming you still have adequate water pressure. Moving the motor back with a Jack Plate will help even more since you'll gain leverage to lift the bow. With a stock 115 on her, I'd be quite happy with around 60 MPH.

As for the Trim Tabs, as others have said, they're probably there to address the porpoise issue you're still seeing some of. Moving them up so that they're not parallel with the bottom will reduce drag. Generally speaking, you want to be up the transom at least 1/4".

One final thought. Moving all of the stuff around on that beautiful transom will involve removing and re-installing fasteners. Make sure you carefully / fully re-seal the holes when you put anything back in place. I'd hate to see you ruin that beautiful boat by getting water into the transom structure and rotting it out.

Thank you for the words of advice!! I will make sure to seal everything up after making modifications... I want her to be around a long time!

[Bodhi]

From the pics you posted, I'd bring the motor up 2inches to start.....it's sitting way too low.
.....and just to correct terminology for you, the plate above the prop is not a cavitation plate as most commonly call it, it is an anti-ventilation plate. Just in case you deal with a marina in the future that refers to its proper name

[80's old school]

From the pics you posted, I'd bring the motor up 2inches to start.....it's sitting way too low.
.....and just to correct terminology for you, the plate above the prop is not a cavitation plate as most commonly call it, it is an anti-ventilation plate. Just in case you deal with a marina in the future that refers to its proper name

Thanks for clarifying that. I will bring the motor up the 2 inches that I can and see what that brings. I will bring the boat down next week and start installing the water pressure gage as well as raise the engine as much as I can (2 inches).

[80's old school]

How 'bout these for a Jack Plate? I think these should do the trick!

[Bodhi]

Thanks for clarifying that. I will bring the motor up the 2 inches that I can and see what that brings. I will bring the boat down next week and start installing the water pressure gage as well as raise the engine as much as I can (2 inches).

After you raise the motor and feel the benefits of less drag, you'll be able to go higher with a jackplate and a low water pickup. Bob's machine shop down here in fl makes a great nosecone and jackplates. Then all that's left is to find the "perfect" prop....

[Onetime]

Ok so I'm reading all this advice and most all of it is good.
I've built these Glen L boats and to me the transom was kind of a weak link. These boats don't have the strength in the transom area as a fiberglass boat does.
JMO but I wouldn't even consider putting a jack plate on it. Also it's a 16' boat! I don't think it needs any increased set back without adversely affecting the cg.
Again, just my opinion

You can definitely raise the engine but I would keep it bolted to the transom. Just raising it is going to put enough increased stresses on the transom.

[Jimboat]

Ok so I'm reading all this advice and most all of it is good.
I've built these Glen L boats and to me the transom was kind of a week link. These boats don't have the strength in the transom area as a fiberglass boat does.
JMO but I wouldn't even consider putting a jack plate on it. Also it's a 16' boat! I don't think it needs any increased set back without adversely affecting the cg.
Again, just my opinion

You can definitely raise the engine but I would keep it bolted to the transom. Just raising it is going to put enough increased stresses on the transom.

Agree re jack plate/setback. Transom rebuild (raising) is structurally best option.

[Carter Powell]

I would bet money that if your fuel tank was empty and you had a small 6 gallon portable fuel tank in the back you would pick up speed. Usually a mid tank such as yours will cost you speed compared to a rear mounted tank in flat bottom boats. Might be worth a try.

Good luck, Carter

[Karsten]

I would bet money that if your fuel tank was empty and you had a small 6 gallon portable fuel tank in the back you would pick up speed. Usually a mid tank such as yours will cost you speed compared to a rear mounted tank in flat bottom boats. Might be worth a try.

Good luck, Carter

I had wondered about the center mounted tank in this boat and it riding so wet. I have a 12 gallon tank in the back of my 16ft and keep going back and forth about a 13 gallon bow tank under the deck.



Now with the Optmax I also have the 3 gallon oil tank back there as well as 140 extra pounds of motor over the 125 Evinrude.

Karsten

[Onetime]

I would venture to say that the tank is mounted somewhere around cg and is not adversely affecting performance.
Do one thing at a time. Raise the engine one hole, which should be 3/4" if it's a standard BIA pattern, and test. First thing make sure you have good water pressure and try it. Then go the next hole and test, finally the last hole as long as water pressure, handling and speed are good.
You haven't mentioned what prop your running. Some stock type props won't surface well and might need to be changed out to see results. Choppers are great for performance but depending on boat use it might not be suited for the use. I.e. Wake boarding, tubing, etc.

[Hammerhead]

Are you still trying to sell your boat?http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/boa/5604428970.html

[David]

A big ear chopper won't fit. Too big OD and his motor is 15 spline. A re hubbed small ear chopper would fit but I think the small ears have a lot less lift. What about a V4 Raker? 22 or 24?

[80's old school]

Are you still trying to sell your boat?http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/boa/5604428970.html

Not really, that ad should have expired by now. I was considering selling to possibly play with something new. What changed my mind was a good day at the lake at low altitude (Lake Elsinore)... Boat ran like an absolute gem and ran so much better than where I usually run her (Lake Arrowhead 5500')... and after that day, my wife and I could not let her go...

However now if I could possibly trade for a faster boat.... who knows!!??

For now, I will keep tinkering with what I got!

[80's old school]

I would venture to say that the tank is mounted somewhere around cg and is not adversely affecting performance.
Do one thing at a time. Raise the engine one hole, which should be 3/4" if it's a standard BIA pattern, and test. First thing make sure you have good water pressure and try it. Then go the next hole and test, finally the last hole as long as water pressure, handling and speed are good.
You haven't mentioned what prop your running. Some stock type props won't surface well and might need to be changed out to see results. Choppers are great for performance but depending on boat use it might not be suited for the use. I.e. Wake boarding, tubing, etc.

I have a Stiletto 19 pitch stainless prop..

Next time at the lake, I can experiment with moving motor up.

[80's old school]

Ok so I'm reading all this advice and most all of it is good.
I've built these Glen L boats and to me the transom was kind of a weak link. These boats don't have the strength in the transom area as a fiberglass boat does.
JMO but I wouldn't even consider putting a jack plate on it. Also it's a 16' boat! I don't think it needs any increased set back without adversely affecting the cg.
Again, just my opinion

You can definitely raise the engine but I would keep it bolted to the transom. Just raising it is going to put enough increased stresses on the transom.

My boat had the Motorwell Modification done for Higher Horsepower engines.. I guess Glen L realized they had "weak" transoms. They issued a procedure for modifying for high HP.

I have posted the Modification Instructions in the following pictures...



Hopefully this helps in making a stronger transom..