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  1. #1
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    Question Wiring diagram of mercury "black" stator - how would these wires connect? (SEE PIC)

    Can anyone assist in how these wires would connect? I burned this today to get an idea of what happens inside and gt it rewound -

    Blue wire broke off and was a bit hard to see where red goes - but its 99% there -

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stator-wiring-3b.jpg 
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    I have 5 wires:

    Y1 (yellow)
    Y2 (Yellow 2)
    R1 (low speed coil)
    B1 (high speed coil)
    BK1 (ground)

    Id be very interested to hear some suggestion as to how merc would have wired this.. I have tried to ref the thin coil wires as (b1/b2) and (R1/R2) assuming they were different?

    I have drawn what the yellow wire does, it starts at #1 and winds thru to #8, then extends as a single wire to the red coil where it seems it joins to red in a T piece - the Red seems to also come from here, as if the red draws from the yellow wires and supplemental power from the small coil.

    The red windings were alot less than blue, and the red and blue wire was much thinner.

    Id love to have a crack at rewiring this thing - if only i knew how the wires could/should go to perform closely to oem spec -

  2. #2
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    Some more pics:

    Seems the red is joined to the right side yellow AND the thin wire to its coil.. possibly the blue would do the same? And would the red/blue be joined to yellow -

    im sure someone who does this will be able to sketch out how this has to be wired? shd only be one way? Then some of us wd be able to have a crack at rewinding our own stators!!



    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    Wow that's a mess! I thought the yellows were separate from the red & blue. Yellow is the alternator, red and blue are ignition power to the switch boxes. I think I have a stator at home that I can ohm out. I'm all for fixing stuff myself but that one would go in the trash if it was mine...


    96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
    98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
    85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD

  4. #4
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    haha yes i know! how else does one remove that insane plastic?? so u are saying the yellows and red / blue are separate? can one pole generate so much volts? The red was attached to the end of one of the yellows..

    If i was stateside yes id order a cdi - but down here in the jungle u gotta make a plan!! plus, its only wires aint it??!

  5. #5
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    The reason I think the yellows are not connected is that they provide AC which goes to a rectifier bridge. It does not make sense that they would be grounded or connected to the ignition high speed/low speed coils. I could be wrong though. Yes just wire that needs to have the same number of turns, the same direction, the same gauge as the original and probably on the plastic bobbins to insulate it correctly...I understand your pain...good luck.


    96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
    98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
    85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD

  6. #6
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    http://www.blackbearsportinggoods.co...e1749610k2.htm

    just bought one from these guys for $260 my engine ia a 150 hp 6 cylindr unit

    on mine I think there are 6 coils. 2 x 20 amp coils for the voltage regulators, Yello wires.

    2 low speed sets, 1 low speed winding red, for 2,4,6 cylinder switch box 1 low speed winding red/wht stripe for 1,3,5 cylinders/switchbox
    2 high speed sets, 1 high speed blue winding for 2,4,6 cylinders, and 1 high speed blue /wht stripe winding for 1,3,5 cylinders/switchbox

    This is for a 40 amp stator. I think a 9 or 16 amp only has 1 pair of yellow windings.

    I think the red, rw, blue and blue wht are tied to ground and the yellow wire are not tied to ground and both ends of windings go to th voltage regulator

    My 40 amp stator has a black wire too, but some ground thru the body/frame of stator

    But I could be wrong, just figured mine out last week.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fstarockr View Post
    Can anyone assist in how these wires would connect? I burned this today to get an idea of what happens inside and gt it rewound -

    Blue wire broke off and was a bit hard to see where red goes - but its 99% there -

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stator-wiring-3b.jpg 
Views:	680 
Size:	169.4 KB 
ID:	344001

    I have 5 wires:

    Y1 (yellow)
    Y2 (Yellow 2)
    R1 (low speed coil)
    B1 (high speed coil)
    BK1 (ground)

    Id be very interested to hear some suggestion as to how merc would have wired this.. I have tried to ref the thin coil wires as (b1/b2) and (R1/R2) assuming they were different?

    I have drawn what the yellow wire does, it starts at #1 and winds thru to #8, then extends as a single wire to the red coil where it seems it joins to red in a T piece - the Red seems to also come from here, as if the red draws from the yellow wires and supplemental power from the small coil.

    The red windings were alot less than blue, and the red and blue wire was much thinner.

    Id love to have a crack at rewiring this thing - if only i knew how the wires could/should go to perform closely to oem spec -

  7. #7
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    Also " magnet wire" is specified by resistance per 1000 feet. You need to go on the CDI site, and it shows resistance values of each of the stator coils, identify the gage of the oem wire, and figure out using this chart http://www.coonerwire.com/magnet-wire/ how many feet of wire you need on each winding. I seem to recall stretching it down the driveway to measure and then wrapping it back up up on a fising rod reel and then winding a bike stator one time.

    cdi publishes resistance values for their stators and oem http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...th-Edition.pdf

    Quote Originally Posted by Zoomba View Post
    http://www.blackbearsportinggoods.co...e1749610k2.htm

    just bought one from these guys for $260 my engine ia a 150 hp 6 cylindr unit

    on mine I think there are 6 coils. 2 x 20 amp coils for the voltage regulators, Yello wires.

    2 low speed sets, 1 low speed winding red, for 2,4,6 cylinder switch box 1 low speed winding red/wht stripe for 1,3,5 cylinders/switchbox

    2 high speed sets, 1 high speed blue winding for 2,4,6 cylinders, and 1 high speed blue /wht stripe winding for 1,3,5 cylinders/switchbox



    This is for a 40 amp stator. I think a 9 or 16 amp only has 1 pair of yellow windings.

    I think the red, rw, blue and blue wht are tied to ground and the yellow wire are not tied to ground and both ends of windings go to th voltage regulator

    My 40 amp stator has a black wire too, but some ground thru the body/frame of stator

    But I could be wrong, just figured mine out last week.

  8. #8
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    may b wrong but---40amp stator wont fit under your flywheel.two yellow wires go to rectifier to charge batt.red/blue charge switch box.no connection between circuts-th

  9. #9
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    Have you given Ebay a try? I picked one up for my 89 150 for $75.00 US. I've just replaced the whole charging system on mine (though mine wasn't nearly as burnt ) and you will want to make sure your rectifier is OK your grounds are good and there are no shorts between it and the battery

  10. #10
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    Black stator, pg 83, appears that red wire and red whote wire are connected, as are blue and blue white, neither run to ground. I would use the cdi resistance values, mike the existing wire dameter, use the chart of magnet wire i posted link to. Find wire gage, calculate how many feet to get the right ohm resistance value, using chart, measure that length of wire, wind it up on the appropriate stator bobbin, solder red and blue leads on, and go. Looks like you m8ght have toasted the yello charge wires too, so might need to rewind them too.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by luv2gofast View Post
    I think I have a stator at home that I can ohm out.
    I checked but do not have one.

    Looks like that info has been provided by others anyway.

    Good luck!!


    96 Cougar 23 MTR twin 300XS's. 100 something
    98 Laveycraft Sebring 20.2 Tunnel 280 90 something SOLD
    85 Baker RST 220 Laser SOLD

  12. #12
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    tx guys - awesome info.. ok well im super relieved i didnt throw a good stator into the fire haha! well - ive mailed to a chap who has been doing stators for years with the specs, the original wires are still on there -

    so the yellow wires are independent - check.. that hd be easy - few turns and thick gauge..

    The red and blue are VERY thin - almost hair thin.. are they independent from each other as well? either way - im sure the stator chap will be able to figure it out..

    as long a I get the correct readings via the specs all shd be ok -

    He said he would send me the instructions once hes figured it out - so if it all works out, ill post it up here

    Also - my one trigger reading is 1900 ohms - outside the 700-1400 spec.. could the stator have fried that too? or could it possibly still run?

    Think ill try it.. mark each of the 3 cylinders tdc / firing position and see if the other numbers are firing in wrong places - just wondering how sensitive the motors are to ohm specs - and if theres a chance i might still be ok with my current trigger..

    Lastly - i see all kinds of variations on the same exact same trigger part number on ebay - some have more wires (i assume a 3 and 6 cylinder could share the same trigger)? What do i do with extra wires if I use such a trigger? Just tape em up (assuming it works of course!)

    thanks again all - mighty helpful!

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