New 2016 Talon 22 Build thread

[dogeatdog]

Loved my 22, can't wait to see this one done!

[WILDMAN]

Here, the seam has been ground out so that strips of fiberglass can be laid in. This will fuse the hull and deck together on the outside so that no seam can be seen after the boat is painted.
NO THAT'S NOT ME in the last pic! That's my fiberglass guy who helps me do the crap that I hate doing. He is a very good glass guy!

[JPEROG]

Crazy Russian has laid a lot of glass for sure-

This boat is going to be a special piece...

Joe

[WILDMAN]

He sure is a funny guy isn't he Joe! Makes me laugh all day!

Crazy Russian has laid a lot of glass for sure-

This boat is going to be a special piece...

Joe

[MeCapnDave]

About time you got some good canvas to paint on Picasso !!!

[firebird]

Subscribed

[TooStroked]

I'm subscribing to this thread because I want to see how a hacked up, butchered, half-assed, rattle can painted, redneck engineered Talon 22 comes out. Given the stellar quality of the rest of your work shared here, I'm going to be sadly disappointed.

And as for Talon 22's in general, I still think they're absolutely the sexiest looking hull ever produced. That ought to make this one even better.

[hometown45]

Uninformed question here... If the top cap and hull are already bonded, why fiberglass over the seam, and not fill it with a cabisol/resin mix? Similar to bondo over a weld seam.

[TooStroked]

Geez, I hope WILDMAN knows I was just pulling his chain.

[Spectre Powerboats]

Uninformed question here... If the top cap and hull are already bonded, why fiberglass over the seam, and not fill it with a cabisol/resin mix? Similar to bondo over a weld seam.

If you put just filler in, it will crack. We only use filler in anything less than a 1/16", just for cosmetic. This cap over has about an 1/8" gap so it is better to glass it in which will allow the joint to still flex without cracking. It is like when you pile bunch of bondo in something it will not flex, but if you cut the piece out and build it back with the original material and then use the bondo for just the top coating, it is as good as new. Hope this helps.

[WILDMAN]

Yeah, what he said. Gotta do it right ya know!

[MODVP22]

Here, the seam has been ground out so that strips of fiberglass can be laid in. This will fuse the hull and deck together on the outside so that no seam can be seen after the boat is painted.
NO THAT'S NOT ME in the last pic! That's my fiberglass guy who helps me do the crap that I hate doing. He is a very good glass guy!

This is interesting. I remember a lot of Eliminator Daytona's having a similar arched seam across the stern. I like this idea, should smooth it up and make it look nice. I'm not a fan of the shaved rub rail look, but across the back this will be sweet. Probably make mounting the setback a lot easier too.

[hometown45]

If you put just filler in, it will crack. We only use filler in anything less than a 1/16", just for cosmetic. This cap over has about an 1/8" gap so it is better to glass it in which will allow the joint to still flex without cracking. It is like when you pile bunch of bondo in something it will not flex, but if you cut the piece out and build it back with the original material and then use the bondo for just the top coating, it is as good as new. Hope this helps.

Thank you, I learned something today.

[powerabout]

I can remember watching Malibu ski boats fully glassing edge to edge so they are finished in one piece. Overkill?
Hull and deck moldings are thin there out of the mold to allow for the laminate.
If you FEA a hull design its obvious its the way to do it not over lap, add rubrail and bolt thru as that makes a hard point with a tear along the dotted line issue.
Not an issue in everyday boat but when you crash a race boat it generally makes the deck fail
Hat box versus a pipe story. Flex not solid as Todd said.
Easy to do with big volume hulls like a ski boat but hard on something you cant get inside of

[Liberator*21]

Subscribed in watching a masterpiece created...................