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  1. #1
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    3 Liter Sport Master Swept to Straight Skeg

    Does any one have photos or suggestions on what is the best way to modify a swept skeg to straight skeg on a 3 L. Sporty?

  2. #2
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    David, I haven't done one yet but have 2 now to do. My plan is to use progressively finer grits with a belt sander, and give the entire unit a final sand with an orbital and scotchbrite pad. I'll use machinist calipers to match the dimensions of a straight skeg. Should be pretty simple.

    It will be interesting to hear the ideas of others that have "been there, done that".

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  4. #3
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    It's really not much of the casting that needs removed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #4
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    Flightplan, I was referring to cutting the aft portion of the skeg to be near vertical, not swept back. I was not referring to the torque tab removal. I think that is what is recommended for twins on cats, and what I currently have on my boat. I am making spare left and rights. Left is already straight, just need to cut right unit as it is swept, but brand new!. Are you keeping swept skegs for yours?

  6. #5
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    No, i will want to match the left straight skeg. I'll have to defer to someone with more knowledge than me. Looks like a cut, then fileing/sanding to final profile. I'm glad you posted this.

  7. #6
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    I have one that someone cut strait. The skeg is something like .200 thicker then the strait skeg at the trialing edge. This is the first one I've over seen cut from swept to strait skeg. Damn shame to cut the swept skeg I have 3 strait skegs that would trade for a swept skeg.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  8. #7
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    Anyone want give an answer on how to cut at swept skeg? Merry Christmas, !

  9. #8
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    I would take Baja up on the offer. I believe the swept skeg is thicker in the middle because of the torque tab. JMO Merry Christmas.

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  11. #9
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    I repair a lot of Skegs, I would use a skilsaw with an aluminum blade to cut ,then a flap disk on a 4" grinder to make the taper, then sand with 240 and 400, then scotchbrite red pad
    Kirk

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  13. #10
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    All good info above!
    Yes, if you can swap someone sure I would consider that route if the case was apart, clean and with good threads etc to save the cutting and fishing work. If not keep in mind having to swap guts!
    I have personally done my share and I would not have reservation on doing it. For me is 1 hr of work with the proper tools to achieve great results.
    You are actually relieving the stress portion of the skeg so failure or problems are not their from cutting the tamer.
    Yes, it will take a little work for a good finish but not hard with proper tools and if you have the know how....JMPO, GL.

  14. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davidlake View Post
    Anyone want give an answer on how to cut at swept skeg? Merry Christmas, !
    Merry Christmas to you as well ...

    Git ya a great big chain saw and ......

    I've only cut a couple , but what I did was lay a square at the bottom of the bullet parallel to the prop shaft and almost to the trailing edge of the skeg where it meets the gear case. Then draw a line with a sharpie along the trialing edge .
    If your happy with the way it looks , use a tootsie roll the blend the bottom of the case to the skeg line. Use painters tape to cover the line and cut the material away that you don't want with either a band saw , portable band saw , air hack saw ,a zizzy wheel if you have to . Just stay away from the tape . Once it's cut , pull the tape off and sand to the line with a DA or file board to keep it flat . By the time you get to the line you should have not one tooth mark remaining , leading to a nice little radius in the corner . Roll the bottom tip with your sander and just fuzz the back corner to knock the burr off .
    Then take a strong young man , hand him a can of WD-40 and a red scotch pad and go over the whole case , by the time he says he's tired , you will have two very clean , smooth lower unit's that you can be proud of ...

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