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09-25-2015, 08:43 PM #1
Should I use head studs on my 99 2.5 200
When I go back together with my engine should I use head studs? I have been popping heads off and checking wash, then swapping between two sets of heads with different CC depending on what I am doing. I am fearful of pulling threads out of the block and curious what the common consensus on using studs are.
Anyone have a part number?
SlimmHire the handicapped, we're fun to watch
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09-25-2015, 10:11 PM #2
Studs are a good idea if you are popping them off and on regularly.... blue loc-tite to hold them in....
"One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .
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09-26-2015, 06:09 PM #3
The problem is not so much stripping the threads out. A head bolt stretches thats gives you clamping force they can stretch .006" 3 times max and trash em. if your gasket compresses .005 your bolts not really working ask any race engine builder art x s\p drag sbc builder. if you use studs, use loc tite or jb weld, get all the studs in, slide the head over the studs "no gaskets" and torque the head down to about 25 pounds and leave it over the sit over night. thats called perfect perch. make that 20 ft lbs
Last edited by Magcat 62; 09-26-2015 at 06:31 PM.
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10-25-2015, 12:02 PM #4New Member
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I'm also trying to find head studs as well for my 2001 2.5L. Anyone have a source?
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10-25-2015, 12:19 PM #55000 RPM
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Brendan Powers gets 325.00 a set. Something tells me there is a more cost effective alternative. Luckily my motor had them when I bought it.
Dave
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10-25-2015, 06:22 PM #6
This is what I do on my steel bore engines with great success.Zoro part # G1642042 3/8x16x6' grade B7 alloy 120psi tensil C35 Rockwell threaded rod,I cut to length, finish ends and lock tite in place.It is no different than the merc head bolts that are all threads.Ive cycled these at least 15 times on one engine,also use hardened thick washers and grade eight nuts,no locks,a drop of blue LT,standard tork.About $30 per engine.
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Slimm thanked for this post
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08-21-2016, 09:12 PM #7
Outasite, If you wouldn't mind check out this link to Fastenal and see if this rod is the same or better than what you have been using please.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/47454?searchmode=filterByInMyStore&r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%2260016 9%20Rods%209and%20Studs%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600173%20Threaded%20Rods%22|~%20~|sattr02:^3/8%22-16$|~%20~|sattr11:^%22125000%20psi%22$|~%20~|sattr06:^Plain$|~
Dam , that's hell of a link. lol. Lets try this, below is description, etc.
3/8"-16 x 6 ft ASTM A193 Gr B7 Plain Threaded Rod
Thanks for your help and hope this helps other in a more economical head stud for lake motors.Last edited by redstv169; 08-21-2016 at 09:14 PM.
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08-22-2016, 06:13 AM #8Supporting Vendor
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We sell sets for 2-0-2.5 for 125$ a set,in stock,Chris
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08-22-2016, 03:26 PM #95000 RPM
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Grade B7 rod is what we use to hang overhead cranes - The 5/8" diameter goes for about $2.50 a linear foot at local fastner distributor (Not a Fastenal) Normally in 3' or 12' length. 3/8" should even cheaper. In Nashville we get it at Action Bolt and Screw-
Given the amount of work in prepping the qty involved- this is probably a pretty good price "We sell sets for 2-0-2.5 for 125$ a set,in stock,Chris"
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08-22-2016, 08:06 PM #10
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08-22-2016, 08:31 PM #11
Yep, I think CCM deal is a deal when it comes down to it for the average guy. I'm still on fence but Chris's price is right in line for my budget and I don't have to dress threads or do anything extra. Thanks all of ya, love the input and different points of view this site provides.
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08-23-2016, 11:21 AM #12
Here is the studs I purchased from Grainger. They were the perfect length and I have checked them every time I have been out and haven't had any lose torque yet.
http://goo.gl/K5GIZp
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...tics=altItems#
SlimmLast edited by Slimm; 08-23-2016 at 11:22 AM. Reason: add URL
Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch
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texasvector thanked for this post
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