Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

[home made tunnel]

Two coats on the bottom. A lot of dust and bugs in the paint lol. O well. I'll give it a couple days to harden up (after christmas).

[FMP]

As long as they are water striders, just kidding!

[home made tunnel]

Got it flipped back onto the trailer with the help of a couple friends and family. Yay for light small boats!!! Brought the deck in to start filling some holes and get it paired up with the hull.

Does anyone know where a good place to purchase a sheet of 60"x20" lexan to make my windshield?

[FMP]

UPD Plastics in FL will make you one, or www.cyro / Acrylite for the product . Check out the www.ChryslerCrew.com site on the windshield replacement build about halfway down the page .

[home made tunnel]

Cut up and glassed in some 2" pic pipe bits to hide all the wires and cables.

And plugged up up some holes.
I also reassembled the rotating assembly and it spun freely with no noise and looked pretty good. I think the last idiot put the bottom cylinder connecting rod cap on backwards. Thus creating a binding situation. I'm going to order 2000's oversized rebuild kit and put the thing back together.

[janetfdoss]

Stringers and bulkheads are done. New Aluminum tank welded up, decided old one was too SWISS CHEESE to restore. Ready to cut floor pieces out, and start fiberglassing everything in. I'm going to make a false floor cover over the tank so I can remove it for inspection, and another in the fwd section for storage (ancor/rope/empty beer cans etc).

Boy did I open a can of worms. I need to get back to working on my tunnel hull ! ! !

Yeah i think you have opened the can of worms.

[FMP]

Cut up and glassed in some 2" pic pipe bits to hide all the wires and cables.

And plugged up up some holes.
I also reassembled the rotating assembly and it spun freely with no noise and looked pretty good. I think the last idiot put the bottom cylinder connecting rod cap on backwards. Thus creating a binding situation. I'm going to order 2000's oversized rebuild kit and put the thing back together.

Check that cap and rod mating surface for chips and hair cracks, if it was on backwards the damage has been done and don't use it. JMO! Those rods are availble used and are plentiful.

[home made tunnel]

Check that cap and rod mating surface for chips and hair cracks, if it was on backwards the damage has been done and don't use it. JMO! Those rods are availble used and are plentiful.

Luckily, it looks as if the engine was never even fired after the new piston was put in. There wasn't even a flywheel installed on it. I think he just pulled the carbs and reed block off, and did the piston swap with the powerhead still attached to the mid. Probably popped off the rod cap and put it back on.

[home made tunnel]

Does anyone have pics or links to the porting jobs?
I'm looking to do some die grinding / burring / porting this afternoon.

[Slimm]

Does anyone have pics or links to the porting jobs?
I'm looking to do some die grinding / burring / porting this afternoon.

I am not exactly sure what porting and grinding you are wanting to do but I'll offer a little of what I have been given/shown. James Perry has a list of engines and the modifications he has done to them located here --> http://www.chattanoogafishingforum.c...sts=46&start=1

I hope you can find something that helps you in there.


Slimm

[FMP]

You want to square things up. You can take either the two outside bridges out or the center out of the ex.ports , if you take center out leave 1/4 radius on the new large port, you can raise them a bit and chamfer inside, square roof. The transfers, square them and don't raise them leave a 1/8 corner radius and chamfer inside , square roof. Cut the transfer cover block surface on each enough so the transfer cover just or almost bottoms out with the thickness of the gasket. Cut the head for 165psi. Who's pistons are you using? The ex pic is from an F5 , start with that and square the tops, tr pic is from a CHRYSLER , a bit of a hack job (not mine) but it gives you a start.

[home made tunnel]

So I made a new windshield. Cardboard template transferred to wood. Sanded wood perfect smooth and all that jazz and used a router to cut the acrylic.

Also so added a "V" to the middle to prevent any flexing on the windshield. The bar acts as a grab rail and top windshield mount. A poor design by BAYLINER that I modified. It's very rigid now!

Thanks for for the info on the porting! I'm going to try my hand at it this weekend.

[FMP]

Luckily, it looks as if the engine was never even fired after the new piston was put in. There wasn't even a flywheel installed on it. I think he just pulled the carbs and reed block off, and did the piston swap with the powerhead still attached to the mid. Probably popped off the rod cap and put it back on.

IF it was torqued the unmatched surfaces will have been damaged, take a very close look. Find another rod JMO. The rest looks aces man!

[home made tunnel]

HEREs the kicker question--- what rebuild kit do I buy?!?!
So the piston/rods I pulled out are BOTTOM guided. Which is 1990-1994 style.

My engine comes up as a 1995 serial number E109552 which should be top guided.
So do I buy this kit:
http://shop.tsmperformance.net/Power...100-210-20.htm

or this one:
http://shop.tsmperformance.net/Power...100-205-20.htm

[FMP]

Put up a picture of the rod and pistons, if it's CHRYSLER/FORCE earlier or MERC later PRoMarine has a kit or many other venders, I say use the Wiseco P3151 .020 over in place of cast pistons. MIght have been a replacement someone put on it when the MERC version blew itself to the moon. Just noticed from an earlier pic that it's running a MERC fuel pump, and the rod looks like a bottom . They did put them together like that. It could be a late run bottom guided or a replaced core . YOu may not need the mains or upper and lower bearings check them and spend the money on the better WIsecos they are lighter and coated to help with crown heat. Since you are running a triple more load on each piston vs a four even though the boat is fairly light with more psi and power you are better off with the p3151.