Land and sea jackplate

[derpid]

Hey Dave, do recall how you were able to remove the check valve from the cylinder body? It's that cause of my weep an I cannot figure out how it is removed.

[Dave Strong]

Can't remember for sure was 9yrs ago, 70's were hard on my memory. thinking that stem has a valve with a o-ring on it and just pulled it out? The other side no pictured had some rubber o-rings and a tapered seat, springs and a check ball or two if I remember. Can't say for sure I got that valve out. Sorry can't be more help, you could take it to a hyd shop, when I got parts for mine the guy said they were real common.

Dave

[derpid]

Well I guess I'll have to give it a shot. I'll post what findings I get as I'm sure someone else may one day need to know aswell lol.

[Dave Strong]

Wish I could remember more but it is what it is.

Dave

[Dave Strong]

The one thing I do remember is the cork gasket thickness is important, the centre part has no gasket and if the gasket material is to thick and the centre portion does not seal with the machined part on the other side it won't work right.

Dave

[mn808gade]

glad to see your post.am working on one someone installed on a 9.9 yam (4-stroke) kicker,it always leaks down.havent pulled it apart yet.thanx-th

[derpid]

well, turns out you can just pull it out with a pair of pliers lol. the silver orifice comes out then the popet then the spring. the popet takes a No. 004 o ring I was able to find all the O-rings(except the 004) in a kit I had kickin around the shop. I was also lucky enough to have the cork gasket come off in one piece, a little flange sealant and it was back together. I'd be done except I broke a wire off the brush assembly, so ill have to fix that later. Now if anybody is curious, the motor itself is still available, but any parts for the pump are not. good news is I had no problem finding any O-rings or seals, but do your best to save the cork gasket and don't loose the ball bearings lol.

[Dave Strong]

well, turns out you can just pull it out with a pair of pliers lol. the silver orifice comes out then the popet then the spring. the popet takes a No. 004 o ring I was able to find all the O-rings(except the 004) in a kit I had kickin around the shop. I was also lucky enough to have the cork gasket come off in one piece, a little flange sealant and it was back together. I'd be done except I broke a wire off the brush assembly, so ill have to fix that later. Now if anybody is curious, the motor itself is still available, but any parts for the pump are not. good news is I had no problem finding any O-rings or seals, but do your best to save the cork gasket and don't loose the ball bearings lol.

So my memory isn't as bad as I thought.lol

Dave

[derpid]

haha yep, you were firing on all cylinders on this one Dave.

[LakeFever]

Bumping this old thread for o-ring information. You need one #5, one #4 and one #1 o-rings to repair the pump bleed down problems for anyone else who has one of these jacks and doesnt have a kit full I hope this info may be of some assistance in the future.

One step closer to launch over here, thank you SAF for these MINT tech threads I keep finding. If i can add anything of benefit along the way I will.


Worth a note although Im not typically a huge oil additive guy, I have saved leaking trim units before with "Lucas Transmission Fix" which is basically an automatic trans stop leak so I add a little now to every marine hydraulic mechanism I work on for safety sake. A little being a table spoon or two worth, it keeps the seals from hardening and has stopped my 83 Crossflow from leaking into the lake and working well for over ten years now since that leak first arrived.

[Krazymaan]

Just saying because nobody else has said that you also need the 4 O-rings that go on top of the pump plate cover which squish in a small groove under the shoulder bolts that hold the pump cover plate down.

[Dave Strong]

Just saying all.depends on what year the plate is. More than one different pump depending on the year.

Dave

[Krazymaan]

Good to know that some came with O-rings under the 4 shoulder bolts and some didn't come with O-rings. Good info, Thanks.

[LakeFever]

Hmm mine did not have the o-rings under the shoulder bolts. I was able to save the cork gasket though, very very carefully with a straight razor I lightly pried it off one side once I had the pump off on the bench as I was separating the cover. I was able to get the pump assembly barely down through the bottom of the jack plate by removing the top and bottom pins only without removing the motor or any mount bolts. I split the pump motor hanging off the transom and left it wired up which sprayed oil everywhere when I slid the pin out but otherwise no drama. I set the jack to mid height yesterday afternoon and marked it to see if it would drop. It looks like it has dropped 1mm max this am, only enough to barely cover some of my mark so im pleased. Im sure once its run a bit and that Lucas works around in there it will only get better.

I like the lift jack design, its tough, slides smooth and is built for the long haul for us fresh water guys at least.

[Krazymaan]

Maybe you didn't have them because they get destroyed upon removal and you didn't notice. That's how mine were I had only 2 rings left and had 1 bolt broken in half. The shoulder bolts have a small groove around the neck which squishes the oring into the slightly beveled mounting hole in the cap which helps stop fluid from channeling up the threadless bolt shaft and escaping into the reservoir. My pump is identical to the one posted. I have the same jack and is quite fast.