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  1. #136
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    Not a bad idea... That's why I add the pics. I never thought about the stress it could put on the sponson. So your thinking core on the tunnel could be good? Maybe in between the 2 ribs.

  2. #137
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    Any hard point in a panel that sees movement will cause a crack. Just spread the load out where the points of contact are with some 1/2'' core. Or, another solution is to space the wood pcs contact points off the laminate 1/4 '' or so and glass in on either side leaving a gap between the hull and wood. Once again, jm 2cts. Everyone has an opinion....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  3. #138
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    Thanks again, thats why i like to post pics as i go. an extra pair of eyes always helps out. i wonder if some 1/4 rubber spacers between the "wings" and the wood could belp out by allowing the deck to still flex a little.

    p.s i checked out your rebuild thread... unbelievable v-king you got there.
    Last edited by Erik C; 06-20-2016 at 09:55 AM.

  4. #139
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    Your project is looking good too. Many years later after the old Kings re-build and still no cracks or failures. It is tough! When I used wood in boats, I liked to use some 1/4'' divinnycell foam core strips along the edges of wood bulkheads that contact the deck or hull sides where there is no core. It compresses some and keeps the hard wood from pressing out on the skin. Soft rubber would do the same but may not be compatible with resin imo. You can make some wood wedges for spacers and to hold the part in place firmly, and tab in the part, let harden, then remove the wedges and fully glass it in.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  6. #140
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    Well I got half a paint job done before it got dark....I used interlux bilgekote... $80 a gallon but it is some tough paint.

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Any hard point in a panel that sees movement will cause a crack. Just spread the load out where the points of contact are with some 1/2'' core. Or, another solution is to space the wood pcs contact points off the laminate 1/4 '' or so and glass in on either side leaving a gap between the hull and wood. Once again, jm 2cts. Everyone has an opinion....
    Ahhh...is that why the V-King deck is not attached to the floatation box? You know, the piece that drops down almost to the floor, same spot on both sides.
    I was going to attach mine to the floor via a stringer, or maybe leave my floatation box in like you did yours...Your V-King came out great !!

    Shore glad I Scribed to this thread..

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  9. #142
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    My deck support pieces are glassed onto the vertical part of the foam boxes. Put some wet mat on the box surface and then using 2x4's and some plywood pieces to spread the load wedged them against the boxes until the glass hardened. Some bi ply laid at the top where the box meets the deck support completes the attachment. You could put yours onto the inside faces of the stringers if you beef them up so they don't flex too much. Bi ply between the back of the stringer and the back of the support as well as putting mat between the two pcs.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  11. #143
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    im still rtying to figure out if i want to let the deck "wings" float or attach them to my sponson ribs. the YT hull is much different than the v bottom in the way those foam boxed in areas look. originaly the spot from where the tunnel runs up the hull from the transom to the bow, it was a flat 1/16 thich pc of fiberglass (like a cover) over the foam filled sponson. there was a 12" pc of wood cast into the foam where the vertical attachment point was. i dont want to creat a Hard spot like XstreamVking mentioned... origanaly the foam and thin cover flexed, plus they where basicaly attached to foam.
    Last edited by Erik C; 06-23-2016 at 06:19 AM.

  12. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    My deck support pieces are glassed onto the vertical part of the foam boxes. Put some wet mat on the box surface and then using 2x4's and some plywood pieces to spread the load wedged them against the boxes until the glass hardened. Some bi ply laid at the top where the box meets the deck support completes the attachment. You could put yours onto the inside faces of the stringers if you beef them up so they don't flex too much. Bi ply between the back of the stringer and the back of the support as well as putting mat between the two pcs.
    OK, that is good to know, Thank You!

    Eric's drawing is sort of what I was envisioning if I removed the flotation boxes in lieu of a stringer. But the more I think about what you did with yours, I'm inclined to do that...

    Eric is doing a great job on his...seeing it almost done now is motivating me to up the heat on doing mine. Plus I managed to pick up a sweet 96 PM225 thus weekend for mine.. That's got me motivated as well...

    Thank you,

    James

    P.S. I see you live in Cape Coral. I did to until about 6 years ago. I lived on the water near the Beach/Boat ramp. Kind of miss the saltwater fishing, but not the maintenance saltwater brings.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  14. #145
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    A couple more cables, battery and bleed the hydraulic lines and im ready for the water......finally!!!!!

  15. #146
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    Great Job !!

    I am soooooooo jealous right now .....

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  16. #147
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    So now that you have all this free time left over now, and mixing and laying glass is fresh in your mind....

    You could come help me finish mine .....

    JK

    Be sure and report back how she does in the water !!!

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  17. #148
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    Hahaha... I'll be right over james, give me a couple hours.
    I'll tell you it was a fun experience, but a ton of work. I can't wait to try this thing out with all that weight removed.

    P.s.. If you where closer I'd be right there with ya.

  18. #149
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    Eric, looks like you did a great job, it really looks good!

    1987 V-King YT 200 Evinrude Vindicator
    1998 16' Weers HPT Pontoon 60 Evinrude 36 MPH

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  20. #150
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    It's finally wet!!!!..... And holey smokes is this thing lite!! It's like a totally new boat.

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