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07-20-2015, 10:19 PM #1
300 Etec No Start, but if jumped runs fine
NO START from helm Controls but can jump across Solenoid and it runs fine has Evinrude Digital controls and the switch closes the circut if bypassed but something in the ECM is stopping the circut Closure on the ECM indicators its also showing crank possition fault could this be from the fact it didnt get a proper shut down the last time it was fired or the fact that the ECM sees it as a fault, want to eliminate everything human error before i dig into the diagnostics of the engine...
ALL SYSTEMS go once it fires
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-21-2015, 06:23 AM #2
Key switch or key harness JMO
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07-21-2015, 07:19 AM #3
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07-21-2015, 06:07 PM #4
CPS light IS OFF!!! but i think i found the No start as just a bad solenoid installing a new one tonight to test the fact even on a test harness the original wouldnt self activate.. EMM appears to be closing Ground as designed so i think it was just a solenoid... if starting and shutting off under its own accord solves the CPS light issue ill be able to river test this thing 6 other places couldnt fiigure out
the boat is one of our selling boat line owners personal boats and they have taken it ALL OVER THE STATE and nobody could find the issue with it not starting... so if it cranks i basically took away 6 other selling dealerships products for that boat builders... the boat is a year old and never seen water because of this damn stupid problem that looks like it might be fixed for less than 50.00Last edited by 150aintenuff; 07-21-2015 at 06:12 PM.
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-21-2015, 09:31 PM #5
Yes sorry the light should be off unless it's cranking.
I i doubt it's the solenoid if it is that's not the symptoms I've seen. Have you tried a new battery and cables directly to the engine? They are not as sensitive as my opti's are but a bad battery won't fire an Opti it usually will make an Etec run just enough to drive you nuts.
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07-21-2015, 09:40 PM #6
the solenoid isnt even jumpable with a test harness independant of the key or engine harness, i have a plug i built from a coolant temp sender replacement plug in ( same pinand plug as the factory connector ) into a pos, side ring terminal and a neg aligator cliip and no bueno...
solenoid is dead
the way they were jumping it at other dealers was from big pole to big pole with a 2ga wire..duh it would work... but doesnt actually activate the switch portion... when i did it that way nothing.. . ohm tested and volt tested the harness lights up test light with key so not harness or engine related.. just a bad part
2 brand new blue top optimas and yes the boat has wiring issues but those are isolated to the house side not the engine.... the wiring issues arent current related... every wire is red someone forgot what color code isLast edited by 150aintenuff; 07-21-2015 at 09:47 PM.
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-21-2015, 11:01 PM #7
The emm excites the solenoid. Not the key so I would not consider any battery in the boat as isolated. I'm not a dealer or a certified tech and I don't claim to be. Im posting my experience with the hundred or so etecs I've run across.
If it was in front of me I'd grab an emm off the shelf plug it in and see it it fires.
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07-21-2015, 11:17 PM #8
the EMM closes the circut to the plug on the solenoid... the SOLENOID was removed from the engine, power (same as EMM feeds it 12V constant and controlls ground) was applied and the ground was closed... NO ACTIVATION... now if with the new part theres an issue with activation ill look closer at EMM output amperage on the purple wire feeding the start circut of the solenoid feed voltage at plug was 12.1 and ground side of plug had 9,056 ohms to ground and when start button activated ZERO to ground so the control is working... but is the EMM feeding enough amperage will be seen tomarrow
Last edited by 150aintenuff; 07-21-2015 at 11:24 PM.
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-21-2015, 11:40 PM #9
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07-22-2015, 12:26 AM #105000 RPM
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had a smaller etec do the same two weekends ago,rig had to go back to the cities b-4 I got more time on it..good luck i'll watch-th
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07-22-2015, 12:53 AM #11
6 other dealers also didn't do the basics and threw away 2000.00 in throttle and shift actuators because a ground wire was unhooked in the control hub so they don't mean much that fix took me 2 min but the starter solenoid is definitely bad if it cannot be activated by closing its circuitry on a bench test
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-22-2015, 12:57 AM #12
the solenoid uses same plug in as a GM coolant temp sensor so I took a pig take and built a manual jumper wire set. To use main power and ground to test solenoid. Zip zero nada. This test plug removes the emm and key on power and any boat wiring will only crank because nothing else is powered if the part was good just like jumping across a ford starter with a screwdriver.
Last edited by 150aintenuff; 07-22-2015 at 01:01 AM.
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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07-22-2015, 09:27 AM #13
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07-22-2015, 07:43 PM #14
New solenoid fixed my problem
4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she
things that were are no longer as they are today...
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