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Thread: redesigning a pad
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07-07-2015, 06:21 PM #1
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redesigning a pad
Guys I have flipped my boat over to do some repairs due to a bad repair job that had been done previously before. I really would like to build up the pad and install a strake to the outer parts of the pad thinking it will lift the boat a little more. I don't want to over do it so I really could use some advise on how much will be to much. I also think that the design I have in mind will call for about 5/8 to 3/4" to achieve what I feel I need. Also thinking of using a coosa board or other composites to perform the final results as I have started to build up the pad and have found to achieve the desired height would take a 30 or so layups to get to the point that I am looking at. If it is a good idea using composites such as the bluewater 26 coosa board where would be the best place to order and if the is someplace that would sell cut pieces, I don't mind buying a whole sheet but don't really need more than a piece 1 foot wide. Thanks for any advise on the Manner. Buddy
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07-08-2015, 04:30 AM #2
I am far from an expert on this but have also been doing allot of learning on pads.
Not knowing the width of your existing V I would consider building an 8" wide flat or very shallow V and outside that flatten to the existing width of that V providing strakes.
The hull would lift into those strakes at a moderate speed and then onto the pad itself at higher speed providing you with an efficient cruise as well as high speeds.Last edited by CharlieN; 07-08-2015 at 05:03 AM. Reason: can't spell without coffee
Regards,
Charlie North
If it ain't broke, modify it.
80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
87 Glastron CVX20 Hull
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07-08-2015, 04:45 AM #3
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07-08-2015, 06:09 AM #4
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You'll need to post a lot of additional info. What boat? Length and beam?, Hull weight? Width and length of current pad? How far from the transom do the current lifting strakes terminate?
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07-08-2015, 06:54 AM #5
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Thanks for thus input thus far. The boat is 20' 8" with a 92" beam 1600lb. hull,16 1/2" wide on the pad w/no strakes and about 1/2" of height. the strakes run from the transom forward, the pad is around 7 1/2' long before tapering into the hull, the pad is 8 degrees using an angle finder across the pad. Currently I'm am thinking that leaving the pad 10" wide 5" on either side of the current center line and building up the edge 3 1/2" in forming a W look to the pad verses the U shape it has now. to do so building the edge up 1" would give a 8 degree in the opposite direction. I have used fiberglass strips to build up but after adding the 1708 strips of glass I really haven't accomplished much in terms of building it up. I was wondering if using a coosa board cut to the angle and layed into place would be a efficient and permanent way to achive the results I am looking for. Thanks again for any help.
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07-08-2015, 07:13 AM #6
Coosa is a good material for your needs.
Myself I would go with a hat shape rather than a W. Simply due the the W being quite aggressive. The hat will give good lift and grippy cornering but still allowing the hull to slip sideways. The W shape could be quite aggressive cornering.
Is that 1600# rigged or bare hull?Regards,
Charlie North
If it ain't broke, modify it.
80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
87 Glastron CVX20 Hull
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07-08-2015, 07:19 AM #7
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07-08-2015, 07:53 AM #8
This may help,
View from the rear.
Red would be a hat section.
Blue may or may not be your W? Are you talking of just this outer 3½X1" or building up the center as well.Regards,
Charlie North
If it ain't broke, modify it.
80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
87 Glastron CVX20 Hull
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Slimm liked this post
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07-08-2015, 07:57 AM #9
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07-08-2015, 08:12 AM #10
I have an error in my first drawing with the pad being too wide. This one has it at the 16½ you speced.
I expect with the W build it will have generous lift but will be rather firm riding.Last edited by CharlieN; 07-08-2015 at 08:19 AM.
Regards,
Charlie North
If it ain't broke, modify it.
80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
87 Glastron CVX20 Hull
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07-08-2015, 08:19 AM #11
Thinking a bit on this, your thoughts are very close to where I originally was as presented in my thread, http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...adding-strakes
I ended up going more conventional. I have not come to any conclusion yet due to the new motor not making power. I hope to get another test session in late today after the rain has past.Regards,
Charlie North
If it ain't broke, modify it.
80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
87 Glastron CVX20 Hull
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07-08-2015, 08:23 AM #12
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It is not as flat as but is the design used under Stroker boats. I was wondering if the angles being different how the ride would be. The hat design would be very well worth considering using the sharp edges but a little softer on the angle going into the edges, kinda the way it is built now on the edge. If the boat would run on the pad with the hat design it ought to haul the mail pretty good.
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07-08-2015, 08:28 AM #13
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07-08-2015, 02:31 PM #14
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If this is a bass boat, where are the fuel tank and batts located? If too much weight is fwd it may never fly. How does the boat behave now? Will it porpoise with too much trim?
83 V-King, OPTI. 250 PRO XS on the transom
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07-08-2015, 02:41 PM #15
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Fuel tank is located below the seats in front of live wells 50 Gal. it has 3 batteries with cranking battery located in the middle between the stringers sears pm31, has (2) optima 27 as far left as possible. the only porpoising is in around 60 to 65, I feel that it has more to due w/ the sporty case than the hull. This boat is running very well now, just looking to get a little more from it if possible.