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  1. #46
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    Just read through this entire thread. 4 things pop out to me.
    1. Like dave said, disassembling these carbs and not replacing the gaskets will usually cause trouble. There's a gasket in the middle of the bowl that'll leak and cause just this sort of trouble, ie flooding at low speed.
    2. The fuel pump has one or probably 2 ports to the crankcase. One is by hose, and the other is through a hole in the back, which is why there's a gasket under it. Crankcase pressure pulses are the driving force for the fuel pump. If the rubber parts leak, they'll suck a ton of fuel into the crankcase and flood the 2 cylinders involved. A kit's two bits, takes an hour to throw in.
    3. Reeds are critical at low speed. With the carbs off, it's a dozen bolts and one gasket to look it over. Well worth it.
    4. It is possible for bleed lines to cause low speed troubles. It is easy to visually inspect them, and test the check valves. Worth the hour or so it takes. Make sure the lines are installed to the correct diagram. Horizontal and vertical reed routing is totally different.

    With good spark, don't think you have an 'lectric problem.

    Use a Mercury manual. Seloc manuals are good in the out house.

    It sounds like you, or those you've hired have installed several bugs in this motor. When I got my XR4, it had all kinds of problems. By hanging out her at S&F and learning all I could and patiently working at it, I got it well tuned, and had to go buy a steeper prop for it. It takes some maintenance. Water pump and fuel pump get gone through every year. Carbs get a going over every few years, and the Chris Carson reeds get inspected as well. Winterizing and spring startup are near religious rituals.

    hope it helps
    Last edited by j_martin; 07-02-2015 at 10:19 PM.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  2. Thanks trevstar, pcrussell50 thanked for this post
  3. #47
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    Subscribed. Very interested in the outcome. I bought a blown motor just to have the freedom of swapping parts without waiting and spending a fortune. Very frustrating,good luck.
    1976 Hydrostream Viper - 1500 Mercury I6
    1985 21' Hustler - 2.4 200 Merc
    1990 18' ArrowGlass CC 140 Johnson -SOLD
    1987 21' Seebold Eagle 150 Merc
    1990 15' Hydrostream Viper 150 Merc - SOLD
    1977 16' Checkmate Trimate II 140 Johnson - SOLD
    1969 13' Boston Whaler 40hp Merc - SOLD

    Drive it like you stole it!

  4. #48
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    Thanks. I have taken on a basement renovation project so the boat/motor is sitting waiting for some TLC. I start vacation this weekend so hopefully will get some time to get back at the motor. I'll post again soon.

  5. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by j_martin View Post
    It takes some maintenance. Water pump and fuel pump get gone through every year. Carbs get a going over every few years, and the Chris Carson reeds get inspected as well. Winterizing and spring startup are near religious rituals.

    hope it helps
    Can you flesh out these "going through" the water pump and fuel pump routines a little?

    When you "go through" the fuel pump, do you take the whole thing off and unstack the whole sandwich replacing all the gaskets and diaphragms, or just replace the filter and O-ring?

    For the water pump, do you replace just the impeller, or the whole water pump housing and cover and base every single year?

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 08-06-2016 at 05:15 PM.
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    Can you flesh out these "going through" the water pump and fuel pump routines a little?

    When you "go through" the fuel pump, do you take the whole thing off and unstack the whole sandwich replacing all the gaskets and diaphragms, or just replace the filter and O-ring?

    For the water pump, do you replace just the impeller, or the whole water pump housing and cover and base every single year?

    -Peter
    To go through means to replace parts that normally are damaged or degraded in a year, inspect the rest and replace them if needed. I put a rebuild kit in the fuel pump anually, which involves unstacking it and replacing all the diaphrams and valves. The water pump gets an impeller (and gasket) annually, the base plate and housing inspected.

    Fuel delivery and cooling are critical for survival. Partial loss of either usually means major power head damage, especially if you're running hard. My XR/4 will burn about 15 GPH at about 150,000 BTU per gallon. You do the math. That's a heckofa fire in an aluminum can.
    Last edited by j_martin; 08-10-2016 at 04:52 PM.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  7. #51
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    Thanks, mate. I think I have the info I need now, to enjoy a long happy life with my 1987 2.0L 150hp. I had bookmarked your post about this from a year ago so I can refer to it quickly and easily. This is also my first two-stroke Merc. The Evinrudes have simpler robust fuel pumps that are generally not rebuildable, but last many years, so the idea of "going through" a fuel pump was somewhat new to me. And even at that, I didn't even start boating until summer of '08, so I've still got plenty to learn.

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  8. #52
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    The "going through" is mostly preventative. It gets ugly when fuel delivery gets lazy as half the cooling on these motors is from excess fuel. If you can avoid ethanol, things last a lot longer.

    Another thing to check on old motors is bleed lines and their check valves. Not hard to do. Things get erratic if they aren't right, especially at low rpm. Once right and in good shape they should last a long time.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  9. #53
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    Thanks, I'll add the bleed system to my "check every few years" column, along with carbs and reeds, (ccms, of course).

    Say, where do you get replacement bleed hose, and what size? I have some yellow silicone hose I bought off a fellow s and f'er, but it requires a little zip tie to keep it on the nipple. It's been working ok, but kind of like the nice tight fit of the OEM hose

    -Peter
    "padded wonder"
    __________
    the wet:
    Hydrostream Viper, 140 v4 crossflow, some Raker props
    16' Baja/Tahiti/Sidewinder clone, 135 v4 crossflow
    17' boston whaler alert, 90 merc fourstroke
    13' boston whaler, 40hp yamaha

    the dry:
    2003 bmw ///M5
    1993 mustang/griggs racing road race car
    and a handful of clunkers

  10. #54
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    Many small engine shops or motorcycle shops have the line.

  11. #55
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    I bought new bleed hose for my OMC from a dealer, they had it in rolls sold by the foot. 1/16" I. D.

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    Thanks, I'll add the bleed system to my "check every few years" column, along with carbs and reeds, (ccms, of course).

    Say, where do you get replacement bleed hose, and what size? I have some yellow silicone hose I bought off a fellow s and f'er, but it requires a little zip tie to keep it on the nipple. It's been working ok, but kind of like the nice tight fit of the OEM hose

    -Peter
    Just bought some on Amazon. I bought bulk..doing a few old merc's.

    I should have bought it from a factory distributor....cheaper in price.

    http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...3487&catid=864

    $.79 per foot from this web site...

    Some of the fuel lines you can buy are not good with ethanol, some only good to 10%.
    I'm sure like most of us, we don't run ethanol fuels...unless that is all you can get.

    Tygon is the brand I found to be good, in the research I did.


    In answer to your question 1/8" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. and 1/16" Wall thickness.

    HTH

    James
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  13. #57
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    I use tygon fuel line from a motorcycle shop for bleed lines. It's prettier that way.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  14. #58
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    Post #46!! What he said is bang on.
    Popey

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