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06-02-2015, 10:08 PM #1Member
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Action Marine complete stringer and floor replacement, help
Hey guys, I am currently in the process of replacing the stringers and floor of my 1979 16' Action Marine. I have finished ripping out all of the old floor and stringers, and to say that was terrible would be an understatement lol . I think I pretty much have a good idea of what I'm doing, and have a decent amount of experience with fiberglass but I was hoping for a little guidance in a couple areas.
First, is the West System good to use for the floor and stringers? I've heard good things but I am a little skeptical, I only have experience with polyester resin.
Second, I know that you need to put a filler in between the stringers and the hull when installing them to distribute the load evenly and avoid hard spots. What exactly do I use for that and how do I do it? I assumed it was a putty like material that I put down and then press the stringers into it and wipe away the excess that squeezes out the sides.
Third, how do I secure the floor to the stringers? Similarly, how do I secure the underside of the floor at the edges? Since the floor is solid I will not have access to the underside once it is in place.
Lastly, is it necessary to remove every little bit of that stupid yellow foam from the hull? Its a real pain to sand, since the fiberglass mat is not flat due to the weaves. You can see it in the pictures. Do I need to sand down more than I already have where fiberglass will be laid?
I have a few pictures so you guys can get a better understanding of what I'm working with. Btw, it's all shiny because I just hosed it down not because of resin or anything.
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06-03-2015, 07:44 PM #27000 RPM
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06-03-2015, 07:45 PM #37000 RPM
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what material you planning on using?
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06-03-2015, 08:17 PM #4
i say use what you know poly lasted 25 + years
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06-04-2015, 02:20 AM #5Member
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I'm using 1x6 treated pine for the stringers and 1/2" marine grade plywood for the floor. I hear that the epoxy has better adhesion to cured poly, and it seems straightforward to work with. Also I hear the epoxy works much better as an adhesive than the poly which I like. Regardless of if I use epoxy or poly, I'm still at a loss of how to secure the bottom side of the floor to the boat. Obviously I cannot access the underside of the floor once it is in place.
From what I understand, I'm supposed to use "peanut butter" consistency resin to "glue" the stringers to the hull. Then make a fillet on the corners and glass over the whole thing with 1708 biaxial mat. The thing I'm confused about is how do I secure the bottom of the floor to the top of the stringers? Do I use that same peanut butter and just plop the floor on and apply some pressure?
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06-04-2015, 06:46 AM #6
dont use treated anything
some will say it will stick trust me i been pulling that mistake out for over 25 years
https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe
Replacement Fiberglass Windshields For just about every hydrostream
Fiberglass Seat Shells 18 wide high backs, 18 wide barrel backs and 23 wide big boy barrel backs
call 941-575-8914 with any questions
7 to 3pm 5 days a week
Custom Fiberglass and Paint
In Business since 1984
for sale
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06-04-2015, 08:40 AM #77000 RPM
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I hate to say it, but with the materials your using, (wood) go with untreated. I know it will prob be frowned upon by some, but you might as well get some really good stainless screws and run them into the stringers through the deck and seal and glass over them. You still should put some putty on the top of the stringers but its not a big bond line and not to easy to stack putty on a 1" stringer.
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06-04-2015, 09:38 AM #8Bobby Pazos- Member Of The
BULL-FROG EYES DRAG RACE TEAM
Fellow-G-Man,
Sunshine Syndicate
2006 23' Action Marine 300 HP V8
2001 19' Action Marine White Power
1998 23' Concept CC (sold)
1999 17' Action Marine (sold)
1996 STV River Rocket (sold)
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06-04-2015, 12:15 PM #9Member
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I'm using epoxy resin with the treated pine for the stringers, I've heard that it has good adhesion. I'm very skeptical using untreated wood, I've had bad experience with it in the past. Moisture always seems to find it's way in over time especially if using screws. Is resin adhesion the only reason you guys are saying to go untreated?
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06-04-2015, 01:34 PM #107000 RPM
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do you mean treated as in pressure treated? If so is it at least kiln dried?
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06-04-2015, 01:41 PM #11Member
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yeah, pressure treated. Not sure about whether or not it's kiln dried. Is moisture the problem? I just cant wrap my head around using untreated wood in marine application
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06-04-2015, 02:07 PM #127000 RPM
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YES moisture is a prob. Double up marine grade ply and glass it, thats better than moist wood.
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06-04-2015, 02:30 PM #13
From everything on here that I read don't use treated wood. Marine ply or AB ply is best. BC even works but has voids in the middle of the plywood. Make sure to have a layer of glass over all wood and more than one cote of resin and it will last longer than you will ever want to see that damn boat.
1973 Viper - sold
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06-04-2015, 04:43 PM #14
Use 3/4"marine grad ply and double it up for the stringers. I like epoxy but that is me. If you epoxy or what ever between the stringers and weight them down before you put them in is best. when putting the floor on (1/2" should do) you need to cover the bottom with glass then when still wet lay it on top of the stringers. then run ss deck screws threw the floor in to the stringers. then lay up on top of the floor. This will seal it all up.
Mix cabosill and some fine cut up glass with the epoxy to make all the beading putty. Put this on every thing you set in place it will make a nice fillet in the corners. This will make the lay up easer to keep air pockets out.
Also put putty on top of the stringer before you lay the floor on. You may not need the screws if you weight down the floor as it sets up. Don't try and do to much in one step. Take your time and plan all your moves.
Thy epoxy is very predictable as far a setting up. Also it dose not just kick off. You have time to work it as it cures. A little water and soap with a sponge and you can do any thing you want with it. Makes easy work of the fillets with the putty mix.
The main thing is it needs to all be sealed up around the wood. the epoxy gives you the time to do this. It also dose not wick water like some esters.
The only down fall with epoxy is you need to let it cure and sand between lay ups. It takes longer as you need to wait a day between each move you make.
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06-04-2015, 07:49 PM #15Member
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Wow, thank you! That was an excellent walkthrough. Just a few questions.
1. When I double up with 3/4" ply for the stringers, do I just glue them together with resin?
2. I'm thinking of doing the top of the floor with poly, because I have more experience with it and I would rather not have to wait and sand between layups. I would still like to epoxy the stringers to the hull though, and there would be no contact between the new poly and the epoxy. Is that ok? Or should I not bother and just go all poly?
3. Is cabosill the same thing I would add to poly to thicken it up?