Ride guide cable conversion

[outasite]

This thread will show and tell,how I converted uflex m86 rack/cable assys to fit Merc ride guide racks.This has worked flawlessly for me,BUT as with any modification there must be a disclaimer!This mod could hurt,or even kill you.If you have doubt,or don't like it simple DONT TRY IT.OK now that that's said.This is what I done. I have only done this on dual ride guide square rack systems.You will need to purchase two M86 uflex cable/rack assys. About $100 each.I will show a picture of the stock Merc rack and stock uflex rack.
(Also a big thanks to member Keith,(Speedinstream)for donating a dual ride guide system for this project)

[outasite]

The objective is to convert the uflex cable to fit the Merc rack.First drill all the heads off the pop rivets on the uflex rack then separate it.The cable and rack will now come out. You only are going to use the cable.Unscrew the cable from the rack 10mm metric nut.U can do the same with the Merc rack.You will see they are similar.

[outasite]

Next,you will need to take the Merc threaded cable bung plug,and do the following.Bore the threaded end to .715 inside dia,to a depth of .750---some cables may require a little more,up to .900-- Then cross drill two .250 holes,.375 in from the end edge.These are to retain the uflex cable in the bung.They need to be .725 center to center.You will need two good quality solid pins .250 dia and 1.150 long.The long rivets that came out of the uflex rack are a great fit here.This will complete the cable casing attachment.The only thing left is the inside cable to the rack,there will need to be a mod done there as well.Will cover that in a day or so.

[baldad45]

Thanks for posting this much needed solution for untold number of rideglide cable failures !

[Dave Strong]

Subscribed.

[FlowMaxx]

Subscribed. Thanks for posting.

[outasite]

Bear with me,I am making a few changes on this one,to make the conversion somewhat easier,by using the Merc end plug instead of making one from scratch.So I am revising some of the measurements as needed.On my original set I made a new set of square end blocks to mount the cable out of 1" aluminum.The hard part of using the Merc round end plug is drilling the two holes,You need to start with a mill cut to get a flat,to start a drill.If you would like to use square stock the concept is the same.

[outasite]

This is what it will look like,The first picture shows ready to assemble to the cable.The second shows the assembly ready to slide into the rack housing and be bolted down.This completes the housing end.Next will be the attachment of the inner cable.

[speedinstream]

Subscribed

[Go Time]

This should keep a few more rideguide systems up and operating....

[outasite]

The next step is to lengthen the inner cable by two inches.Start with a grade five or better bolt 3/8x3" in the lathe,turn the head end to .450 dia then center drill.Be sure to use a center drill to start,then drill a pilot hole .200 dia and .900 deep.This you will tap with a metric tap. Size M6X1 I grind the tip off and make kinda like a plug tap out of it.With a 5/16 end mill counterbore head approx .035 deep then remove the top three threads with a 1/4" drill bit.----- On the other end,turn to .250 and thread to 1/4-28 for self locking nut.I leave a short boss behind the threads. You could also drill for cotter pin and use a castle nut from your old Merc cable.Clean and dry threads,a couple drops of lock tite red,and put on the extension,good and snug let dry.The overall length of this part is 2.700" You are increasing the length of the inner cable two inches.The last thing to do is to put a safety stop in the rack tube.Simply drill a 1/4 inch hole directly above the inner two mounting holes,use one of the bolts and nuts that came with the uflex,put a crossbolt through the housing as shown in the last picture.Next we will assemble the rack.

[outasite]

Assemble the rack just as you would normally,making sure you have two pins in the cable retainer,and the safty stop bolt in the far end of the housing.You will notice the center tooth of the rack has a line cast into the side of the tooth,when that is centered in the window the measurement on the motor end will be around 17" from the locknut to the linkage mounting eye.Dont fear if it's off a little.Ride guide has quite a bit more travel than the Morse or uflex systems (the rack itself is longer) and usually run into bind befor they run out of rack teeth.So if you need a tooth or two to center your linkage it should still be fine.

[outasite]

In closing,I would say if you already have the Merc dual racks the material cost of this is under $220 The newer cable liners are much smoother than the old Merc ones.Plan on about four hours to do your first set,and two/three hours after that.I have just reread the full text of this post.And gee's. It sounds like a lot of work! but is really not.And is kinda fun to do.Most all the dementions I have posted have a little wiggle room.The two most important things are a tite/square fit of the cable extension and the safety stop.If you are reluctant to go hydraulic,this just mite Give Ya a few more years to think about it

[Dave Strong]

Great info, might be a bit beyond the average guy without a lathe. But with the given info could have the machining done and then assembled at home. Thanks so much.

Dave

[dwilfong]

I am thinking 3/8" shoulder bolt with 1/4-28 threads on the end for the cable extensions?
Would save some cutting and treading on the 3/8 bolt and it has a round head to start with.