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  1. #46
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    Now that spring has sprung up here in Vermont it seems only a month or two ago we had some snow,

    But now most of the snow is gone and it is time to start playing with boats again, so I figure it is time to get to the bottom of this.
    So I dragged my hull out behind the shop where few ever go and flipped it over.










    Now I can really get to the bottom of this.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  2. #47
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    Get my cvx 17 back this week from extending my strikes and blue printing the bottom. Moved my tank to the back, added core where there was none, new stringers, transom, styrofoam floor, rigging starts, ugh, but yea! I'll post pis tomorrow. Putting a 225 super mag on her, 6" notch! plus 8" jack plate, should see 90!
    Boatless but want a Progression, Super, Tuff, Activator, Scorpion, ish !!!

  3. #48
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    That should be serious fun.
    I spent some time yesterday sanding the last 6" or so of the hull getting the hook out. This did take off a light downturn, the hook that was there.
    What I have now is between the keel and inner strakes is about a 0.090 depression on one side and less on the other in aft 4' of the hull that needs filling.
    Had this been a cored hull or epoxy this would probably been straight still.
    The nice thing I find is where I did all the structural work a few years back the strakes are straight as can be.

    This hull has plenty of chips and blisters to be dealt with as well as getting proper repair where someone sent drywall screws through the hull when the "new floor" was installed.

    Then of course the main subject of this thread, adding some lift which looks like that will be installing a pad.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  4. #49
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    On the subject of moving weight back, when I rebuilt the core a few years back I made it so I can install a 22 gallon fuel tank under the aft floor. It has the 27 Gal bow tank but once I weld up the aft tank this will offer me options for fuel load. This pic is from 3 years ago.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  5. #50
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    I am getting a chance to work on the bottom, in mocking up a core for the pad I find an interesting trait that I am not sure if is an issue or not. With the sun coming out today, something that only happens a few days a month here I can not get a good pic of this.

    With the pad built so it's edges are parallel to the keel center the stern of the pad will be lower than the strakes in a side view. This would make the pad have an angle of attack slightly greater than the factory strakes are. Call it less than 3/8 over 8'.
    If I splay the rear of the pad a few inches it will be parallel in height to the strakes.

    My question would be, would the pad having a greater angle of attack be more of an issue over a slight delta shape?
    Core splayed,


    Attempt to show non parallel,
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  6. #51
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    I would loose the entire centre Strake. Thats only there to help keep the hull from getting pulled buy a skier. Its not helping you get any high pressure air under the hull to help with lift at any speed. It will deflect and cause turbulence disrupting high pressure effects at speed. Your angle of attach is to low and the air flowing over your deck is to high of pressure. you need to get the hull UP at a good angle of attack for better pressure differentials. After deep sixing the center stake add a pad as mentioned. The aft 4 feet should do. Im in a hurry but something like this. the side profile is that sketch off on the side. This will create lift at the steer and give you a better angle of attack. Your motor looks buried also. The prop shaft hight raised will also help achieve a better angle of attack. Just a thought. Most fast Vee bottoms dont have that centre stake and the vee is a little more rounded not so sharp and have a pad. Engine hights vary from 1/4 below to above the pad prop shaft hights.

  7. #52
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    I keep looking at the protruding keel wishing I had addressed that when I was doing the structure inside. But giving thought to it there is not any reason I could not remove it with all the glass work from the outside. The center stringer sets down into that keel and may well provide a surface to form the glass on.

    i do have good access to the last 5' of the center of the hull on the inside so setting a pad in is possible.
    Last edited by CharlieN; 04-29-2015 at 12:13 PM.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  8. #53
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    On engine height, that has been dictated by the prop I have run, an old 25p Predator that does not like to be jacked up. The jack on this boat will lift the propshaft a few inches above the keel so I have the ability to tune.
    I did a brief test with a 26p Chopper which was an easy 5mph slower through all rpm ranges but it sure gripped better.
    Last edited by CharlieN; 04-29-2015 at 12:19 PM.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  9. #54
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    Hears a more streamlined profile of the bottom that wouldn't take much to get like. maybe some grinding off and see how far ya can go? Im thinking the strake on the bottom off and rounded with material added in the stern for a pad or to just get the lines straighter from the keel so there's not the whale forward area. If you check out a Charger bottom something like that? The keel is sharp on the stern and has no lift built into it. Most sterns have some kind of flatter area at the stern like in this pic. The red line of your hull is what i see as faster bottom without getting all crazy with steps ect.. Yours looks to be a 16 deg bottom? with some straighter lines should be pretty fast with as mentioned power. But the way the bow is deeper than the stern is whats really keeping you wet. it takes way to much lift to get that out of the water. So Thats why i would try and remove it if faster is what your after.

  10. #55
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    25 trophy or 26 Drag4 or talk to Todd at Hydromotive enganering he can get you hooked up and with speed. With your hulls weight a 4 blade might be the way to go. if you get more lift into the hull coupled with a great lifting prop you start to have a good recipe to create some aerodynamic lift under the hull with less hydrodynamic drag equals speed. OR buy an Allison with a 280. Most aired out shots of fast hulls you will see under the hull the stern is deeper than the bow wear it breaks. Your hull is lower at the stern. The more you can change that the faster you will be. What will change is the driving at above 65-70. once you can get to those speeds and higher balancing the hull threw driver input becomes critical to over come the hulls tendency to chine walk. No big deal as all Vee hulls will at faster speeds. it just takes some practice to drive her on the back of the hull at 70+.

  11. #56
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    Hears a couple pics of a Viper bottom. This would be a good way to go also adding a delta pad. Just widen the wood you have for your strake pic and fill in the center. Then you could add less at the bow to get less vee hanging in the forward section of the keel if that makes sense.

  12. #57
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    I just bought a 25 Trophy, this will be my third 4 blade, One previous one acts like it is spinning the hub and the other at 23P gets out of the hole great but is just too short.
    This hull has a 19° rise.
    Just got back in from staring at my hull, I am leaning towards cutting off the protruding keel and adding the pad from there back. The pad will end up about 8" wide, details of that will obviously change as I progress and this project develops further.
    I am reluctant on cutting a delta pad into the hull due to my work time being limited. I think I am safer adding the pad to the existing structure.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  13. #58
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    I like the pad style on the Viper, mine to start with would not have the strakes right next to the pad.
    This hull has a fairly pronounced whale up front, this reflexes up to the vee. It looks like the pad may blend nicely into the back side of the whale. I have no clue how the get contrast of this area so it shows up in pictures. Probably once the keel is blended it may show.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  14. #59
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    No pictures yet but I have started to remove the keel. More tomorrow.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  15. #60
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    That sounds like a good plan. That {Whale} is the biggest issue. its just hanging so far down the running surface it never gets aired out. so much drag having the whole hull in the water like that at speed. If you look at the air under the side shot of mine you can see were you need to head. Gota get that bottom in front out of the water some how to get less wetted surface. More setback might be something to try before you get the motor back on? It will help with the candle leaver effect and move your centre of ballance farther back. That will help free up the bow also at speed. Sounds like a fun project. You should get some more speed out her taking that deep keel strake off. My hull is fairly rounded all the way back on the keel line and is 950 lbs. It handles the chop nice and smooth. i looked for an Allison GS bottom pic but couldnt find one. i put that stern pic as reference to the width of the pad on mine for reference.

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