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  1. #31
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    Exellent thread! Don't forget those bulkhead holes. That will help to lighten her up without losing strength. Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  2. #32
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    As for the scantlings - I went through about a dozen different renderings before I decided on these final measurements. Even as late as when I started to cut the plywood, I added an additional foot in the space between seat back and transom.

    The hull should weigh in around 500lbs. It's getting a layer of fiberglass cloth ( 6oz.) on the exterioir, and any interior areas that will be open. Sealed bunks will just get some resin, and the fiberglass tape on the joints.
    By scantlings I meant the thickness of core, and type / weight / # of layers of glass. This type of hull will see very different loading than a kayak or sailboat. I don't think you want to go light on tape for any of the seams, particularly the corners of the tunnel. 6oz is pretty light on the exterior for puncture resistance too.

    My first guess without doing any research or panel loading calculations would have been for 3/8" running surface and bulkheads, 1/4" decks. with 2x 12oz biax running surface glass, each seam at least double-overlapped with 6" tape both sides, and 1X 12oz on the interior.

    On these small tunnels I think its real easy to get transom-heavy. The Biel is quite a large 13' boat by volume compared to the other mini-tunnels, allowing it to carry a lot more motor. The yamaha 70 or 90 might be a good match, over 100lb lighter than the OMC or Yamaha V4.
    78 Hydrostream Vandal - under restoration here: VANDAL RESTORATION THREAD
    86 21' Eliminator Daytona
    17' Badetta sandbar skiff

  4. #34
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    Mr. Matt Gent - I like the input!
    Another thing about my design of this boat was that I wanted to keep it simple - as few bulkheads / curves / intricacies / etc. I wanted to go 1/2" on everything for simplicity of ordering wood, scarfing joints, and all that. I guess you could say I really just hope it doesn't sink! haha.

    All in the transom area, I used 12oz 6" biax for all the joints on top of the fillets. The plan was to do single 6oz on the exterior, but I'm thinking doubling that to 2x 6oz for all the running surfaces.

    Don't you think 1/4" would be way too flimsy? I already have all the parts cut for 1/2" anyway haha.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    The hull should weigh in around 500lbs. It's getting a layer of fiberglass cloth ( 6oz.) on the exterioir, and any interior areas that will be open. Sealed bunks will just get some resin, and the fiberglass tape on the joints.
    home made tunnel - your tunnel project looks really exciting! You may find that your use of heavy plywood skins and heavy fibreglass coverings will make it indestructible, but also somewhat heavy. You might find that the hull weighs in over your estimated 500lbs.

    remember that the performance of tunnel hulls are very sensitive to weight and power, so any additional weight will affect your overall performance, regardless of the engine power that you ultimately select.

    Have fun!

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimboat View Post
    home made tunnel - your tunnel project looks really exciting! You may find that your use of heavy plywood skins and heavy fibreglass coverings will make it indestructible, but also somewhat heavy. You might find that the hull weighs in over your estimated 500lbs.

    remember that the performance of tunnel hulls are very sensitive to weight and power, so any additional weight will affect your overall performance, regardless of the engine power that you ultimately select.

    Have fun!
    Thanks! I read your "secrets of tunnel boat design" book cover to cover. A lot of neat stuff in there, but I guess mine is more of a catamaran mini-offshore design more so than a flying tunnel.
    I'm designing a Mutt! haha.
    Thanks for all the input.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    Thanks! I read your "secrets of tunnel boat design" book cover to cover. A lot of neat stuff in there, but I guess mine is more of a catamaran mini-offshore design more so than a flying tunnel. I'm designing a Mutt! haha. Thanks for all the input.
    home made tunnel - Nah! you're definatly not designing a "mutt". All types of tunnel hulls, offshore cats, recreational boats, racing hulls - whether big or small, symmetrical or asymmetrical, inboard or outboard, BIG power or mini-power - all of them - all play by the same engineering rules! The aerodynamic and hydrodynamic rules are the same for all of them. The design rules for how changes and features affect performance are the same for all tunnels and cats and mostly the same principles for all vee hulls too! (All performance boats can benefit from even a little aerodynamic lift - see article "Earning Your Wings")

    I'm glad that the "Secrets of Tunnel Boat Design" book was helpful for you! Keep posting your progress and have fun with your great project!
    Last edited by Jimboat; 07-11-2019 at 10:41 AM.

  8. #38
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    Any updates ?
    ARGO Cat 18'
    Mercury 2.4EFI/CLE
    ------------------------------------
    If it's not a cat it's a.............dog ?



  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchPhil View Post
    Any updates ?
    port side is wired on. Need fillet and glass work, then I'll be about ready to flip it and start glassing the bottom!

  10. #40
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    More pictures ! ! !
    Got the boat flipped, and ready to start fairing the bottom, and getting the planing pads on. Also thinking about putting some strakes on the bottom chine for spray to go out the side of the boat, rather than up in the air.
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  11. Likes FMP liked this post
  12. #41
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    Here's a couple more. The 2x6's screwed to the frames in front are just for the boat to rest level on the fixture. The boat weighs about 300lbs right now. That's just a guess as we were carrying it to the lawn.
    Haven't cut any holes in anything yet - Keeping it rigid until it's flipped back upright
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Name:	60 start pulling it out Brother Brian looks happy.jpg 
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  13. #42
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    aaaaaaand more pictures, because everyone likes pictures ! ! !
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  14. #43
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    The boat looks small when it's flat (It is - - - only 13' 5", with a beam of 5' 4". Tunnel depth is 8".)
    Looks like my Jig worked awesome - the tunnel sides are straight as an arrow, and completely parallel.

    I'm still not sure I want to run a FLOOR shifter, or a side shifter. The member here named Rowboat says he has both in stock, but I can't make up my mind! What do you guys think?

    Also, I'm really digging the interior on that yellow boat in these pictures.
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  15. #44
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    I have to say floor shifters are cool and different! But-- they use up some precious space on a small rig. JMO Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  16. #45
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    Sweet, what filler material do you use for your fillets.
    ARGO Cat 18'
    Mercury 2.4EFI/CLE
    ------------------------------------
    If it's not a cat it's a.............dog ?



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