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  1. #16
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    You also need to allow for drainage down the sponsons. Water gets in, your bulkheads will hold it there. Death to a wood hulled boat. typically there are longitudinal strakes running under the bulkheads, so water can flow. At minimum, notch the inside lower corner of each bulkhead.

    I am sooo jealous of your shop!
    Per Rock:

    "Once I bought my first Hydrostream boating changed forever for me."

    Per my hero Instigator:

    "I try not to let common sense interfere w/my boat buying decisions."


    Pat Gent
    cell 954-249-3246
    '78 Hydrostream Vandal (being rebuilt)
    '86 21' Eliminator Daytona, 300 OMC V-8 (Li'l Toy III)

  2. #17
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    Blaine, TN
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    Im glad to see you know how to Scarf plywood not many people do

  3. #18
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    Apr 2004
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    Shepherdsville, KY
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    What do you mean by lifting straks?
    I was planning on putting planing/lifting pads on the bottom chines of each sponson - is that what you meant?
    Yes Bro.thats what i meant ,are you using West system .again good looking work Peace steve

    Steve Smith
    Shepherdsville, Ky
    502-693-3273

    Click Link to Visit our Website at
    http://www.sdspropshop.com


  4. #19
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    Thanks everyone - I'm using the MAS epoxy

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Richland, WA along the Columbia River
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    Love the bud light dust collector.

    I also built a boat from scratch years ago, lots of fun. It was a 21' day cruiser with a big block, I remember I had to steam the marine plywood to bend/wrap it around the coming and carling.



    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    Here's some more
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    Last edited by jpf091959; 06-29-2014 at 11:45 AM.

  6. Likes FMP, Baja170 liked this post
  7. #21
    Join Date
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    home made tunnel - We love the build threads. Keep it coming. Good advice in the above threads.

    jpf091959 - Awesome build! It looks like it turned out really nice. How was the handling and speed?

    The only boat I have built from scratch was an 8' plywood knee-down runabout with a Mark 25 Merc on it. Small, but fast. It was a lot of fun to do, and I actually sold it for a profit later!
    You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift. You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong. You cannot help the wage earner by pulling down the wage payer. You cannot further the brotherhood of man by encouraging class hatred. You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich. You cannot keep out of trouble by spending more than you earn.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    port charlotte / punta gorda fl
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    wow subscribed looks like a fun little boat
    i myself didnt have any professional design help on my boat and i did not use lift strakes and it hurts speed and i ended up compensating for it with steps
    this winter i am going back and adding them
    Last edited by afr; 06-30-2014 at 07:07 AM.

    https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe


    Replacement Fiberglass Windshields For just about every hydrostream
    Fiberglass Seat Shells 18 wide high backs, 18 wide barrel backs and 23 wide big boy barrel backs


    call 941-575-8914 with any questions


    7 to 3pm 5 days a week
    Custom Fiberglass and Paint
    In Business since 1984

    for sale

  9. #23
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    Thanks man. The home built, did okay, it wasn't all that fast. It would run 70-75 on nitrous, but it would get there pretty quick. I was running a 17.5"x25" nickel-bronze cleaver the weighed a ton. the gearcase had a 1.5 to one gear ratio. The boat was a lot of fun, I built it when I was 22-23 years old, I wish I knew a little more back then.

    Lot's of cool stuff out there.




    Quote Originally Posted by Velocity72 View Post
    home made tunnel - We love the build threads. Keep it coming. Good advice in the above threads.

    jpf091959 - Awesome build! It looks like it turned out really nice. How was the handling and speed?

    The only boat I have built from scratch was an 8' plywood knee-down runabout with a Mark 25 Merc on it. Small, but fast. It was a lot of fun to do, and I actually sold it for a profit later!

  10. #24
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    Starting to get the bottom and sides done -
    hopefully next week, I'll flip it, and start some fiberglassing / painting of the bottom ! ! !
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  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
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    Moving along nicely, what's the bottom plank thickness, it looks tough to bend.

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    Last edited by FrenchPhil; 07-03-2014 at 05:15 AM.
    ARGO Cat 18'
    Mercury 2.4EFI/CLE
    ------------------------------------
    If it's not a cat it's a.............dog ?



  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchPhil View Post
    Moving along nicely, what's the bottom plank thickness, it looks tough to bend.


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    looks like 3/4 to me its a battle ship lol

    https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe


    Replacement Fiberglass Windshields For just about every hydrostream
    Fiberglass Seat Shells 18 wide high backs, 18 wide barrel backs and 23 wide big boy barrel backs


    call 941-575-8914 with any questions


    7 to 3pm 5 days a week
    Custom Fiberglass and Paint
    In Business since 1984

    for sale

  13. #27
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    The entire boat is built from 1/2" Okume African mahogany marine ply grade A from Boulter marine plywood in mass. I'm building it tough to spank through the rough short chop we have here in Narraganset Bay, RI.
    jpf- that looks awesome. I've Always wanted an inboard!

    Transom is 2" thick, and the sides of the transom are 1" thick. Building it to handle a big V6 outboard if I ever wanted to upgrade!

  14. #28
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    And it's been a breeze bending the plywood. I've been bending t all by hand. The deck will prob be the hardest part. Copper wire ties holds it together while the epoxy dries.

  15. #29
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    Okoume bends about as good as any plywood species. 1/2" seems like overkill for the running surface, depending on how much glass will be added. How did you develop the scantlings? How about the Cg and Cp balance?

    Have you built any other boats in stitch & glue?

    Neat project, good luck.
    78 Hydrostream Vandal - under restoration here: VANDAL RESTORATION THREAD
    86 21' Eliminator Daytona
    17' Badetta sandbar skiff

  16. #30
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    Using stich and glue, I've built a 17' Chesapeake kayak, and helped my father a lot on his stitch and glue version of a hereshoff 12 1/2 designed by Phil Bolger. Here's a picture:
    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_repgEHoAMo...atrials017.jpg

    As for the scantlings - I went through about a dozen different renderings before I decided on these final measurements. Even as late as when I started to cut the plywood, I added an additional foot in the space between seat back and transom.

    The hull should weigh in around 500lbs. It's getting a layer of fiberglass cloth ( 6oz.) on the exterioir, and any interior areas that will be open. Sealed bunks will just get some resin, and the fiberglass tape on the joints.
    The location of the gas tank(s) and battery(ies) are still to be determined, whether they go up front, or behind the seat. The CG has been very difficult to calculate --- sooo I'm still not sure haha.

    I have this 2 stroke 50 horse 1999 Force, that weighs 187 lbs. Ideally, I'd like to copy-cat Mr.Demeanor with his 13' Biel Tunnel. I need to get everything squared away and tested with this 50hp first before I bump up to a 90hp or 115. As of now, total length is just over 13'. Beam is about 5'4".

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