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06-28-2014, 03:38 PM #16
You also need to allow for drainage down the sponsons. Water gets in, your bulkheads will hold it there. Death to a wood hulled boat. typically there are longitudinal strakes running under the bulkheads, so water can flow. At minimum, notch the inside lower corner of each bulkhead.
I am sooo jealous of your shop!Per Rock:
"Once I bought my first Hydrostream boating changed forever for me."
Per my hero Instigator:
"I try not to let common sense interfere w/my boat buying decisions."
Pat Gent
cell 954-249-3246
'78 Hydrostream Vandal (being rebuilt)
'86 21' Eliminator Daytona, 300 OMC V-8 (Li'l Toy III)
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06-28-2014, 08:42 PM #175000 RPM
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Im glad to see you know how to Scarf plywood not many people do
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06-29-2014, 12:00 AM #18
Steve Smith
Shepherdsville, Ky
502-693-3273
Click Link to Visit our Website at
http://www.sdspropshop.com
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06-29-2014, 11:05 AM #19
Thanks everyone - I'm using the MAS epoxy
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06-29-2014, 11:40 AM #20
Last edited by jpf091959; 06-29-2014 at 11:45 AM.
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06-29-2014, 05:23 PM #21
home made tunnel - We love the build threads. Keep it coming. Good advice in the above threads.
jpf091959 - Awesome build! It looks like it turned out really nice. How was the handling and speed?
The only boat I have built from scratch was an 8' plywood knee-down runabout with a Mark 25 Merc on it. Small, but fast. It was a lot of fun to do, and I actually sold it for a profit later!You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift. You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong. You cannot help the wage earner by pulling down the wage payer. You cannot further the brotherhood of man by encouraging class hatred. You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich. You cannot keep out of trouble by spending more than you earn.
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06-29-2014, 05:31 PM #22
wow subscribed looks like a fun little boat
i myself didnt have any professional design help on my boat and i did not use lift strakes and it hurts speed and i ended up compensating for it with steps
this winter i am going back and adding themLast edited by afr; 06-30-2014 at 07:07 AM.
https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe
Replacement Fiberglass Windshields For just about every hydrostream
Fiberglass Seat Shells 18 wide high backs, 18 wide barrel backs and 23 wide big boy barrel backs
call 941-575-8914 with any questions
7 to 3pm 5 days a week
Custom Fiberglass and Paint
In Business since 1984
for sale
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06-30-2014, 08:12 PM #23
Thanks man. The home built, did okay, it wasn't all that fast. It would run 70-75 on nitrous, but it would get there pretty quick. I was running a 17.5"x25" nickel-bronze cleaver the weighed a ton. the gearcase had a 1.5 to one gear ratio. The boat was a lot of fun, I built it when I was 22-23 years old, I wish I knew a little more back then.
Lot's of cool stuff out there.
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07-02-2014, 09:57 PM #24
Starting to get the bottom and sides done -
hopefully next week, I'll flip it, and start some fiberglassing / painting of the bottom ! ! !
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07-03-2014, 05:07 AM #25
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07-03-2014, 06:30 AM #26
https://www.facebook.com/scott.steffe
Replacement Fiberglass Windshields For just about every hydrostream
Fiberglass Seat Shells 18 wide high backs, 18 wide barrel backs and 23 wide big boy barrel backs
call 941-575-8914 with any questions
7 to 3pm 5 days a week
Custom Fiberglass and Paint
In Business since 1984
for sale
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07-03-2014, 08:12 AM #27
The entire boat is built from 1/2" Okume African mahogany marine ply grade A from Boulter marine plywood in mass. I'm building it tough to spank through the rough short chop we have here in Narraganset Bay, RI.
jpf- that looks awesome. I've Always wanted an inboard!
Transom is 2" thick, and the sides of the transom are 1" thick. Building it to handle a big V6 outboard if I ever wanted to upgrade!
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07-03-2014, 08:14 AM #28
And it's been a breeze bending the plywood. I've been bending t all by hand. The deck will prob be the hardest part. Copper wire ties holds it together while the epoxy dries.
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07-06-2014, 02:12 PM #295000 RPM
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Okoume bends about as good as any plywood species. 1/2" seems like overkill for the running surface, depending on how much glass will be added. How did you develop the scantlings? How about the Cg and Cp balance?
Have you built any other boats in stitch & glue?
Neat project, good luck.78 Hydrostream Vandal - under restoration here: VANDAL RESTORATION THREAD
86 21' Eliminator Daytona
17' Badetta sandbar skiff
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07-07-2014, 10:54 AM #30
Using stich and glue, I've built a 17' Chesapeake kayak, and helped my father a lot on his stitch and glue version of a hereshoff 12 1/2 designed by Phil Bolger. Here's a picture:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_repgEHoAMo...atrials017.jpg
As for the scantlings - I went through about a dozen different renderings before I decided on these final measurements. Even as late as when I started to cut the plywood, I added an additional foot in the space between seat back and transom.
The hull should weigh in around 500lbs. It's getting a layer of fiberglass cloth ( 6oz.) on the exterioir, and any interior areas that will be open. Sealed bunks will just get some resin, and the fiberglass tape on the joints.
The location of the gas tank(s) and battery(ies) are still to be determined, whether they go up front, or behind the seat. The CG has been very difficult to calculate --- sooo I'm still not sure haha.
I have this 2 stroke 50 horse 1999 Force, that weighs 187 lbs. Ideally, I'd like to copy-cat Mr.Demeanor with his 13' Biel Tunnel. I need to get everything squared away and tested with this 50hp first before I bump up to a 90hp or 115. As of now, total length is just over 13'. Beam is about 5'4".