Yamaha 2.6L Frankenstein build

[CharlieN]

Sounds like you are fighting with the mid to engine bolts. I have yet to have problems there, I have heard if they loosen some then getting in with a saw and cutting the base of the threads.
Issue with the corrosion along the shaft is a mechanical grip so the penetrante may not work.

I live up in a fresh water region so I have not learned all the nasty tricks.

With head bolts if things go well the threads can be saved. Otherwise a helicoil is needed. I just did 4 holes on my Excel and one wandered so it got an insert.

[225XCL]

I could afford to damage the mid section that came with the excel powerhead so I ran a drill through it and the bolt and it eventually broke free. I cannot do that with the remaining mid sections so will need to be very delicate, something I am not good at .

I will use my rattle gun at medium strength and see if I can shake them out .

[225XCL]

Update on rebuild for those that may be interested.

First engine has had the 3 head bolts drilled out and helicoiled.
Engine has been reassembled and is ready to be put on the boat.
All standard components apart from Chris Carson reeds and the heads surface ground (small shave).
Carbs rebuild.

Just have to get the old power head off, that will be fun.

Second motor, block has had the exhaust ports ground out to match the 225 block, cleaned, prepped and ready for rebuild.
Small issue with the piston rings that came in the kit, they are ,25 over while the pistons are standard. Replacement parts on their way.
I need a number of parts of the 1 of the 150's to finish this one, starter motor, fly wheel, ignition and so on.

[CharlieN]

You can use your original starter, just the top mount of the starter needs to be swapped for the proper one from a horizontal intake.
Similar on the ignition, you can run the original from the 150, just need to make a few little changes on the throttle control arm to suit the new intake.

[225XCL]

Thanks Charlie for the tips.

Cheers

[225XCL]

Holly Sh1t, what a pain in the a$$ getting the Powerhead off form the midsection but finally its off and with out breaking anything.

[Mr. Demeanor]

Heat heat and more heat. I only had access to map gas but it worked. Heat it until it cant get any hotter then use a blunt point in a small air chisel to vibrate the bolt.
WHen you put it back together, coat the bolts with grease with a little dab if silicone under the bolt head.

[CharlieN]

Chris,
You prefer grease rather than antiseize compound?

Your salt is different than what I deal with is why I ask.

[225XCL]

I had considered putting in grease nipples on each one. But have decided that I will crack them every year and clean then up and re-grease as part of my annual maintenance.

Timing couldn't have been better, the gear box shift rod is almost rusted out so they will be replaced. Would have annoyed me if I had to do this juts to replace those.

[CharlieN]

How are the tiller arms, any rust on them? Or are you lucky and have the stainless ones?

[225XCL]

How are the tiller arms, any rust on them? Or are you lucky and have the stainless ones?

No I'm not lucky.

They have rust, I will clean them up and make sure they still have plenty of steal left in them and put a coat of paint on them for now. I'm fast running out of money.

[DoktorC]

If only we could figure out some reasonable shipping (that's not on an actual ship!!) because I have a few really clean freshwater 25" mids and swivels. Saltwater is not kind to these motors..i feel for ya!

[225XCL]

If only we could figure out some reasonable shipping (that's not on an actual ship!!) because I have a few really clean freshwater 25" mids and swivels. Saltwater is not kind to these motors..i feel for ya!

I will keep that in mind.

I have a box waiting to be picked up at the Post office, hopefully its the parts you sent.

I think the current tillers will cleanup OK. BTW is there a tick to getting these off, none of my sockets have a thin enough wall to slide in and over the nut.

[DoktorC]

Use a wrench..

[225XCL]

I thought about that but don't like my chances with a spanner/wrench. Can only use an open end and I think the nuts will round before they move.
I will give it a try on the spare I have first.