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03-09-2014, 09:50 PM #15000 RPM
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Best workstand to build powerheads? Build? Buy?
Anyone have any clever ideas for mounting an outboard powerhead on a standard car engine stand for build? MY 3.0 seemed easier to mount than this 2.4 I'm building.
How do you guys like to hold the powerhead for build?
Thanks, Dave
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03-09-2014, 11:33 PM #25000 RPM
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Don't have pics sorry but we use a system we build with a flat piece of steel big enough to attach to the four short studs in the back of ph welded to a 3 ft tube that slides into motor stand. Works great and you can drill it to except all different power heads. Beats chasing it around on a bench. You can rotate it 360 any direction to get to what goes on next. I couldn't live without it.
Stan carson.
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03-10-2014, 11:35 AM #35000 RPM
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Thanks for help!
Stan, thank you and your dad for taking the time to help me. Last year I was rebuilding a 3.0 225 and I was fighting a weird ignition problem, for about 3 months! Called your shop, usually get Chris, but got you instead, you told me to index flywheel...Did, found # 4 was firing until 3k then dying, looked closer and found that there was a new CDM on #4, had been fooling mechanics for years, as the problem was a burned ground pin on the connector!
Anyway, found a deal on some WH31 carbs, which seem to be pretty much like the WH 20 or 46, T-rex seemed to like them in a post, stock on an 88 2.4. Stock Jetting was .76 and . 78 for those, so will jet to .80-.82 and hope for the best.
BTW using your sport reeds in all my stuff, running your spacer on my 2.4. Thanks for all the tech support, I really don't need to learn all this stuff the hard and expensive way! Winter is hanging on too long, I am very happy my Sanger 21 v hull/225 is finished so I can pull it out of the snowbank and run it soon. Only runs 65, but one of the quickest things I've ever seen out of the hole. It doesn't really plane off, more like the nose rises and it jumps onto plane.
Dave Leonard
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03-10-2014, 12:41 PM #45000 RPM
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03-10-2014, 01:41 PM #55000 RPM
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Motor is a merc '97 carb, 3.0l 225 hp has 6 cdm ignition secondary coils, each has a 4 pin connector, upon close inspection the 4th pin , which is a ground wire, had gotten hot and burned, so high resistance and dropped out at higher rpms. Stan had told me to mark tdc on each cylinder, and move timing light to each plug wire while engine was running, then check advance. On #4 after 3k rpms the timing began jumping around and killing other cylinders. This was why I bought the engine for $1500, no one locally could seem to make it run right. Got it running well, then overtrimmed it, overheated it, and burned 3 pistons...oh well, now I have a nicely refreshed engine, and really was pretty cheap, tore it down, honed, reringed, used 3 used pistons, and she do run run! Think I spent less than $500 on the repairs. It ran about 100 hrs this last summer, so I guess I'm out of warrantee.
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03-10-2014, 01:55 PM #65000 RPM
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THX. I was thinking evinrude.
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03-10-2014, 07:45 PM #75000 RPM
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Dave I remember that well. Glad you got it running good. It is always a good idea to index flywheel and verify timing and spark on all motor. We do it on everyone that leaves our shop. You would be surprised how off they can be. Always use the most advanced cylinder as your base.
Yeah winter has been rough down here too,88 degrees 100% humidity. !! Anyways take care and glad your happy with our products and service. We try hard.
Stan carson.