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Results 31 to 45 of 380
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03-11-2014, 06:56 PM #31
you need to keep the weight low in the boat! guys don't spend all that money on 15" mid to clear a ski rope,it's all about handling! I really think you should find a cube tank, I think that wide tank will give you pickup issues when low on fuel and weight shifting issues when trying to run on the pad!my.02 for what that's worth!
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03-11-2014, 07:41 PM #32
Scribed. Looking forward to the rest.
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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03-12-2014, 09:11 AM #33
I ditched the idea of mounting the fuel tank up. And will have it flat on the floor.
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03-15-2014, 11:12 PM #34
Worked on the transom today. Got the 2 outter layers cut andd sanwitched 2 layers of 1708 between the 12 layer plywood.being 67* it took a good while for it to set up.I left a lil bit extra all arround to blend I to the hull.
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03-15-2014, 11:18 PM #35
Im raising the transom 3" and made the very top 20" wide then tapered it down to the original hull to try and match the natural Piphorn body line .
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03-16-2014, 08:06 PM #36
I did the same thing with my Viper...matched the Pipcorn lined
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03-17-2014, 01:41 AM #37
Looking good.
-Kevin
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
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03-20-2014, 09:30 AM #38
Added a 3rd layer to the transom with in FRONT of the original transom side flange to help with a bit more strength.
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03-25-2014, 10:11 PM #39
Got the rest of the core and stringers out today. The stringers were on the hull. Not the top of the core.
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03-30-2014, 07:57 PM #40
Spent a couple of hours today ripping out the rest of the core under the bow. I was really wanting to only do the core from the seats and back but figured id better do it all and not regret it later. So under the bow I went .
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04-04-2014, 05:50 AM #41Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
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- MD
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cool boat
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04-06-2014, 12:04 AM #42
Got to work on the Viking for a while today and hand sanded the pad area with 36 grit and cut the balsa wood to fit inside the pad area. I layed the scrimmed balsa over a barrel to open up all the gaps and applied resin and another coat after it soaked in and layed all of it into thickened resin onto the pad area..hope I got enough weigbt on the board pressing down the soaked balsa wood.
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04-09-2014, 10:35 PM #43
Got the pad core in and I think it turned out pretty good.still need the very front 2' in. Probly do that tomorrow. And lay a layer of glas over it all and out over the sides and work on the stringers for a good while.
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04-09-2014, 10:37 PM #44
How far apart should I set the stringers? All the way to the edge of the pad core? 1/2" in? Or where?
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04-09-2014, 11:32 PM #45
looking good man....moving right along.
l set my stringers top of core against edge of pad. i wouldnt want to move em in any....that would just create a valley you'd have to fill or try and glass in later. against edge makes transition from stringer to floor alot simpler81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3