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  1. #481
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    Update:
    Head studs finished! (Shown in another thread)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rods freshened up with 400grit wet paper:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Upper main bearing removed from its carrier:
    I placed the bearing carrier on a steel pipe in the owen.
    Once it reached 450 degrees the bearing dropped right out.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just clean and repaint the carrier before applying heat and a new bearing and a new seal.

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  3. #482
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    Lower bearing carrier, not new -but almost...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Captain75; 02-09-2018 at 04:42 AM.

  4. #483
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    What do you guys think of this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Found it on this cite:
    http://richstaylordporting.com/moder...kePorting.html
    Last edited by Captain75; 02-10-2018 at 11:23 AM.

  5. #484
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    a gimmick.
    total waste of time and effort. and a patent as been applied for by a Pakistani !!!, that alone should tell you straight away its a con.

    its a way of making the combustion chamber bigger again if you have skimmed to much off... no science behind.
    another one of gupta's daft idea's that a lot of mugs will pay for to help slow down their motors.

    idiots saying how much its improved the power especially when they decked the block and skimmed the head !!!! err object defeated.

  6. #485
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    This evening I did some crank preparation.
    Some pics:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	87A6A6EB-1CF9-4633-9D46-6E8BAD3491D9.png 
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ID:	399382400grit paper cut to fit the bearing race. Taped tight with some diesel as cutting fluid.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	399381A long shoe lace around the race to spin the paper back and forth.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	399383 The difference
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #486
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    Dimpling quench area has been dyno proven, V8 auto. Also port passages.

  9. #487
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    Today it was time to fill the idle reliefs...
    Took a plastic syringe of about the same size as the relief holes.
    Cleaned the holes with acetone and plugged them in the bottom using parts of a foam earplug.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	399477Of course I managed to create some mess on one of the cyls due to exessive amounts of JB. Tried to clean the bore fast with acetone, so I hope it didn’t end up clogging the cross hatches next to the relief hole.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails D6BD7749-8F6A-4EE8-BC00-C8B23CAC8CFD.jpg  

  10. #488
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    That's exactly how I filled my relief holes. Keep up the good work!
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  11. #489
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    that crank has come up very nice indeed.
    the idle reliefs look as though they should stand up ok, but from my understanding of the idle reliefs and how they work, is to give a far
    smoother idle, but from above 2000 rpm they dont do anything at all !!! so where is the gain in filling them in ?
    will they make a difference to mid range rpm and top end if no other mods were done ?
    this is something I have not done ( yet) as I have had conflicting advice on the idle reliefs
    Last edited by phillnjack; 02-12-2018 at 07:25 PM.

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  13. #490
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    " so where is the gain in filling them in ? " Compression.
    Gary

    I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.

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  15. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    That's exactly how I filled my relief holes. Keep up the good work!
    The method works fine doesn’t it?
    When I do the other bank this evening, I will grease the bore after clearing the relief hole iot prevent any epoxy from ending up in the bore.
    Clogging the bore’s cross hatch, thats the only thing I’m a bit worried about right now. I will try to inspect it with a magnifying glass. I hope it won’t need another round with the Lisle 15000!

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  17. #492
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    why not just put tape around it and then poke a small hole in it.. any glue from the tape can be wiped off afterwards.

  18. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    why not just put tape around it and then poke a small hole in it.. any glue from the tape can be wiped off afterwards.
    I’ve tried that, the problem is the air pocket that is being created between the bottom plug and the epoxy being poured in. You need to work it down there and thats why it becomes messy... With tape some of the goo easily finds its way in under the tape
    I am probably over reacting as any residue in the bore probably will disapear after a couple of piston strokes!?

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  20. #494
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    yes i think you are worry a bit too much.. it looks pretty nice to me..

    might sound daft but if you are worried then what about putting a drop of nail varnish around the area before you start ?
    that will come off for sure with acetone. any microscopic buts left will just disappear on first fire up ... just a silly thought..

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  22. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    yes i think you are worry a bit too much.. it looks pretty nice to me..

    might sound daft but if you are worried then what about putting a drop of nail varnish around the area before you start ?
    that will come off for sure with acetone. any microscopic buts left will just disappear on first fire up ... just a silly thought..
    Its not the same bore in the pic, but no matter -you are probably right...

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