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  1. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    Yup, looks good! What did you use to enlarge the holes? I used a reamer and cleaned it up with a dremel. Mine turned out nice.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #452
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    When doing all the preparations for reassembly, I try to study all parts really critical iot find any areas in need of attention. I might have raised this question before but anyway: Do I have anything to gain by aiming the edges shown in the pic towards the rodslot? I hope to build a torque monster, rather than a high revving screamer... My goal has been peak power at appx 6200-6300.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    (The edges I refer to are pointed out by the wooden sticks)

  3. #453
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    I think it's more important to have all the angles in floor, lower sleeve, and piston in a manner to promote for as straight of a shot behind sleeve as possible. You have a narrow path behind the sleeve, the more you can straighten out the path upward without any turbulence and dead spots from bouncing off the walls, the velocity is increased that much more. Velocity is king, especially in what you're after. JMO.

  4. #454
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    Hello again!
    Another thing I need to do before reassembly is filling the idle reliefs.
    Is the regular JB Weld ok for this with respect to the heat?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Or do I need the one below?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #455
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    I tap and plug em with s/s socket screw then take a punch and roll a lip in the aluminumso it cant back out.

  6. #456
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    jb weld works fine

  7. #457
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    Why wouldn't you use the "Extreme Heat" JB ? Just askin.
    Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  8. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by olboatman View Post
    Why wouldn't you use the "Extreme Heat" JB ? Just askin.
    Gary
    Its simple, I have the regular stuff in my shop, the extreme version needs to be ordered.
    The regular version must work when adding the dams in the 2.7 heads aswell, or is it too fluid?

  9. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Its simple, I have the regular stuff in my shop, the extreme version needs to be ordered.
    The regular version must work when adding the dams in the 2.7 heads aswell, or is it too fluid?
    Capt I just used some regular JB this weekend and it was the same consistency as peanut butter if that helps also I read the warmer the less viscosity it has.

    Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  10. #460
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    When inspecting the cyls I realized some has got a slight red tone...
    I washed the block with very hot water/steam and despite I oiled the bores just seconds after, some rust was created.
    What do you guys think, does it matter? Seems like it should dispear after a few piston strokes!?
    Or should I give the bores a couple of strokes with the Lisle 280grit and wash it with diesel instead of soap and hot water?
    Btw, thanks oldboatman!!
    Last edited by Captain75; 12-18-2017 at 04:01 PM.

  11. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    When inspecting the cyls I realized some has got a slight red tone...
    I washed the block with very hot water/steam and despite I oiled the bores just seconds after, some rust was created.
    What do you guys think, does it matter? Seems like it should dispear after a few piston strokes!?
    Or should I give the bores a couple of strokes with the Lisle 280grit and wash it with diesel instead of soap and hot water?
    Btw, thanks oldboatman!!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #462
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    https://www.amazon.com/Murphy-Oil-So...il%2Bsoap&th=1
    This leaves a slight oily film. That discoloration will disapear with a couple strokes of the piston rings.
    Gary

    I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.

  13. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfinch View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/Murphy-Oil-So...il%2Bsoap&th=1
    This leaves a slight oily film. That discoloration will disapear with a couple strokes of the piston rings.
    Thanks gfinch! Guess I will leave it then!
    Btw, does anyone have a picture showing added epoxi dams to a 2.7 head?

  14. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Thanks gfinch! Guess I will leave it then!
    Btw, does anyone have a picture showing added epoxi dams to a 2.7 head?
    what are they?

  15. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    what are they?
    The barrier you are supposed to add between the combustion chambers IOT prevent cooling water to pass. Supposed to be done when running open deck heads on a closed block.

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