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  1. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by olboatman View Post
    Gary I was woundering because thats about what I have (1/8") thickness with my late 70s 2 cyl OMCs I play with. Thanks Gary
    Know that many of the motors share sleeves.

    When I've done 2.7 - 3.0 conversions it was $100. per hole due to meat removed.
    Takes someone good to stay straight that far too.

    On the pull overs, I've played w/them quite a bit. Easy way to think of them is as vents for the float bowls. Basically, smaller they are, the more fuel is pulled instead of air.
    Smaller tubes will start pulling fuel from mains sooner (helps mid/lean issue) and Stoker says .010" = half a main jet size.

    As I recall, about .070" is as small as I've gotten before everything goes rich.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  2. #392
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    Checked my wisecos, the pins are not in the finger port grooves.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  3. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    Checked my wisecos, the pins are not in the finger port grooves.
    Be careful how wide you make the exhaust port you do not want the ring to hang up in the port

  4. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by rude tim View Post
    Be careful how wide you make the exhaust port you do not want the ring to hang up in the port
    I see that. Mine are about 2.33" wide and have plenty of room before the rings would hang up.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  5. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Can any of you guys point me in the right direction when it comes to pistons?
    I want the 3liter pistons with fingerport holes in the skirts, and the ring stops located in the fingerport area. What are these called/numbered?

    //Anders
    If I remember right, you want the early Wisecos ('88-92). They have the ring pins in the fingerport areas. Then you can add the fingerport holes. I believe the later "fingerport" pistons have the ring pins where you don't want them. Or, you can get the fingerport pistons and have them top pinned. Either way, the piston windows and fingerport holes need some grinding/sanding to get them shaped properly.

  6. #396
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    I just checked a promarine and one pin is in the finger port the other other side of piston
    std big bore without fingers they line up with the fingers in a modded piston
    I also have some 3.5 and 3.0 f1 v8 pistons and they are both aligned with the finger ports

  7. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by lokinutz View Post
    If I remember right, you want the early Wisecos ('88-92). They have the ring pins in the fingerport areas. Then you can add the fingerport holes. I believe the later "fingerport" pistons have the ring pins where you don't want them. Or, you can get the fingerport pistons and have them top pinned. Either way, the piston windows and fingerport holes need some grinding/sanding to get them shaped properly.
    Thank you Lokinutz!
    Just the kind of answer I was hoping for, cutting my own f/p holes is not a problem...
    Anyone have the OEM number for the piston above?

  8. #398
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    Captain

    Hope this helps here is a Vertex F/P that I'm getting ready to install. As you can see the pins are not in the F/P

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim_Pat View Post
    Captain

    Hope this helps here is a Vertex F/P that I'm getting ready to install. As you can see the pins are not in the F/P

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	331091Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you Jim_Pat, just the kind of info you want!

  10. #400
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    The engine will last longer with the pins over the finger port holes, you just need to radius the port. Pins toward the exhaust side means the ring has to span a much larger opening with minimal support before the pin.
    Keeping the finger port up close to the dome also helps to keep the piston cooler around the pin area. 1/2 inch dia. hole is all that is needed.

  11. Likes Laseraddict liked this post
  12. #401
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    Thanks for your reply racer
    I will start looking for early 3.0 pistons and modify them with f/p windows.
    I am in the middle of matching sleeves and casting together with f/p cutting.
    I want to do as much as possible before sending to block to have it bored, mainly to prevent messing up the fresh bore.

  13. #402
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    I do not know the Wiseco numbers but the heavy / thick pistons have the pins over the finger ports and do not have the holes in them.

  14. #403
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    Here is a wiseco that Monty did for my v4. Also cut the top flat to work with his heads.Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #404
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    When you guys mill your heads, what do you find is the easiest way to fix them flat to the table? Do you start by milling the outside area flat(between the plugs)so it will lay level when turned and bolted down?

  16. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    When you guys mill your heads, what do you find is the easiest way to fix them flat to the table? Do you start by milling the outside area flat(between the plugs)so it will lay level when turned and bolted down?
    I've done that and I've also machines 4 flat spots on the corners by the bolt holes.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


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