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  1. #271
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    If I extend the divider a bit down into the liner, wouldn't that add low end? When you make a tuned pipe longer it would support a lower rpm, adding a longer divider would extend the tuner-length, question is will it support low end torque?

    another question; considering the mods I've made(described in this thread) will I gain any power by removing the airbox baffle? Will jetting up to 74D be enough? I'm a bit tempted to mill the heads between 0,5 - 1mm, to add compression, but I feel a bit unsecure weather I need to jet up even more and perhaps even drop back on timing to prevent meltdown?! Is it worth it, will it give me actual gain when dropping timing etc?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Captain75; 02-04-2014 at 12:52 PM.

  2. #272
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    How you drill it ?Do you have a pic?

  3. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    I drilled the limiter on my stock packs and it hits a wall at 6500-6600. That's a 200-300 rpm increase from before. I've been following this thread to try and figure out how to get mine to pull that high without finger ports.
    How did you drill it?Do you have a pic?
    Last edited by Jari kovanen; 02-06-2014 at 05:05 AM.

  4. #274
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    I have a pic somewhere. Can't seem to find it right now. I'll look later today.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  5. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by baja200merk View Post
    Might be the picture but I would Angle fingers up a bit more.
    More upward angle created, together with slightly bigger window area.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #276
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    Lately, Its been hard to make this thread stay alive, but I will give it yet another post...
    Boost- and fingerport timing; Very soon I will start the reasembling of my ported 2,7 described in this thread, just some last checks before final hone;
    -Due to the fact that My motor isn't supposed to be a high revving screamer, shall I leave transfer and boost(and fingers)timing stock, meaning that mains open slightly before boost and fingers?
    or should I make the all open at the same time?
    -Do I need to raise compression beyond healthy stock(120psi) How much needs to be shaved?( I have 2 sets of fresh 2,7 heads)

    looking forward to interesting replys!

  7. #277
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    Did some exhaust mods today, tried to do them merc-style, pointing down.
    Drilled two 12mm holes pointing backwards, just under the cavplate.
    All holes threaded if it gets too noisy...Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    I use an adjustable angle head that attaches to the quill on my mill. The block is mounted to the table so cyl is parallel to the quill, the angle head fits into the bore and I then use didgital readout to move the cutter (1/2 inch) into the cyl wall and then the power feed to run the cutter down to preset depths. Once all the stops are set its a matter of moving the head from one cyl to the next. Cuts really clean and even finger ports. Maybe Rudetim will be on and he can tell how clean they come out as he has watched me due several.

    Do not use the spring hone on your bores especially with the finger ports. You need a key way hone to properly hone the engine bores.
    Yep.

    Al put fingers in a 2.7 block for me yrs ago and they looked factory. All were identical.
    Monty does his w/a die grinder and they also come out amazing.

    On the ball hones, I let a friend talk me into (against my better judgement) them and I ordered two different grits of high end hones.
    My plan was to use them on stock rebuilds to give me a quick cross hatch and everything else to help champfer the ports which I still struggle with.
    Yes it did a great job on a cross hatch.
    Then I put a bore gauge in the cylinders to check them and never used them again. If you have wear areas in your bore, it will surface them but also open them.
    Mac makes a good rigid hone and you can get all various grit stones. I will say though, to get a straight bore after honing, you need to be good and you need to be anal.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  9. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by Instigator View Post
    to help champfer the ports which I still struggle with.
    I used to use these bits that were hard rubber spheres with some kind of "diamond dust" impregnated in them that fit in a dremel. I have no idea where to find them or what they are called. There was 250 of them on e-bay and I bought the whole lot 8-10 years ago. I'm down to my last half dozen and they are the sh*t for dressing port edges.

  10. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    I used to use these bits that were hard rubber spheres with some kind of "diamond dust" impregnated in them that fit in a dremel. I have no idea where to find them or what they are called. There was 250 of them on e-bay and I bought the whole lot 8-10 years ago. I'm down to my last half dozen and they are the sh*t for dressing port edges.
    Interesting.
    I found some almost tapered frisbee shape discs for my 1/8" inch right angle die grinder that I use.
    I still don't like them because you end up not getting a radius which I want.
    it ends up being the reverse of the shape of the bit.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


    Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
    Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
    Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
    Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
    Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
    24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
    19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
    Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
    Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II

  11. #281
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    Listen to whatever RACER tells you he is one of THE BEST!!!

  12. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    I used to use these bits that were hard rubber spheres with some kind of "diamond dust" impregnated in them that fit in a dremel. I have no idea where to find them or what they are called. There was 250 of them on e-bay and I bought the whole lot 8-10 years ago. I'm down to my last half dozen and they are the sh*t for dressing port edges.
    They are Cratex abrasives. Used to be made in the same town as my old shop then moved.
    Here's a link to the website and you can still find them on ebay.
    http://www.cratex.com/

  13. #283
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    They used to make some great abrasive impregnated rubber sticks.

    Ló fasz racing
    Joe Horvath



  14. #284
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    How close are you getting captain?

  15. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by wanagofass View Post
    How close are you getting captain?
    Close to start?
    I'm cleaning piston ring grooves and chamfering port edges, recieved a package from the US yesterday containing new rings, seals and gaskets.
    Having a hard time changing the lower crankshaft seal, anyone who can help with the procedure?
    Next steps towards reassembly are honing and cleaning the block(I think I will use our bathtub when the Mrs is out..)and checking ring gaps, however I'm not familiar with the procedure.

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