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Thread: Looper exhaust porting
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12-11-2013, 11:21 AM #121
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12-11-2013, 08:09 PM #122
What grit do you finish with on a rigid?
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12-11-2013, 11:23 PM #123
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12-12-2013, 10:09 AM #124
Sequence.........
1 Ball
2 Rigid
3 BrushLast edited by 6Killer; 12-12-2013 at 10:23 AM.
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12-12-2013, 01:10 PM #125Scream And Fly VIP
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I agree with 6Killer on order, you need the rigid right before a brush to get proper cross hatch
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12-12-2013, 01:24 PM #126Screaming And Flying!
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looks like I need to buy a finishing brush
Last edited by powerabout; 12-12-2013 at 02:25 PM.
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12-12-2013, 04:22 PM #127
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12-15-2013, 03:51 PM #128
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12-16-2013, 02:32 PM #129
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12-16-2013, 06:24 PM #130
Captain75 By cleaning up the rod slots are you smoothing out the rough casting? Keep up the GREAT posting of pics --- Great info. Gary
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12-17-2013, 12:11 AM #131
yes I'm trying to remove all the rough casting and sharp bends(shown in the other crankcase picture) I'm still a bit abivalent weather I should feed the boostport directly from the crankcase entrance or not. You could easily improve the flow by removing the lower sharp edge on boostport lower feeding window and thereby allow some of the freshcharge to direct enter the transferduct(the edge I'm pointing at with the file in earlier picture)
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12-17-2013, 07:13 AM #132
The bigger "bang for your buck" would be to add finger ports. The 2.7 has plenty of meat for doing that.
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12-17-2013, 09:55 AM #133
Is there an echo in here
If you do the rod slot like that you better take some time to stuff the crank case. The more you remove the more you need to fill. There is not much meat on the 2.7 in that area (atleast compared to newer blocks) and your not looking to turn it 9k.Last edited by baja200merk; 12-17-2013 at 09:58 AM.
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12-17-2013, 12:07 PM #134
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12-17-2013, 02:39 PM #135
Fingers will add torque across the board.
If you are not proficient at tuning, all your mods will be a waste......