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  1. #1
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    Anyone here familiar with volvo outdrives?

    I have a "Volvo 290 dual prop" outdrive on a cabin cruiser of mine it is mated with a 454 chevy also. Only has 410 orig hours on it. But any way I was out in the boat running on plane at a gentle cruise at 3200+ rpms Then suddendly started hearing a "knocking / Metal slapping kind of sound coming from the transom area almost sounded like inside bellhousing?" so shut her down got towed in put the boat and trailer drained gear oil in drive and drive was full of "milk" water so figured i burnt up a bearing with oil like that. So i brought the boat home investagated a little more found a hole in the boot. Ujoints are fine also no binding or stiffness what so ever. On another note i took the outdrive completely off of the boat started in engine and the noise was totally gone. (another note the output shaft also has no play either from back of boat.)



    When the drive was on the boat the noise continued in Forward,N, Reverse no matter what and got louder as rpm's increased.

    I currently have drive off as listed above. with the "upper gear housing seperated also.)

    Were do i need to start im not very familiar with volvos or computers so bare with me!

    Thanks for ANY help!

  2. #2
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    Well, the water got in through the input shaft seals, they both face towards the oil to keep the oil in, there are no seals there facing out to keep the water out since it's in the bellows and not expected to keep water out. No need to replace any seals, just the bellows. As for the noise..... check to see if the lower unit spins free without ant hang-ups and also check the upper unit. When rolling the upper, shift it in and out of gear and check for any roughness..... you could have burned a bearing, my guess would be the bearing right behind the input shaft seal. There are four bolts that hold the input housing on, you can pull that to get a look at the bearing (don't lose the shims) Any blue on the bearings means it's cooked........
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  3. #3
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    Hows the gimbal bearing, if the bellows had a hole chances are its toast.


    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    Hows the gimbal bearing, if the bellows had a hole chances are its toast.


    Dave
    The gimball bearing on that drive package is sealed, but there is a slight chance it can go bad from water intrusion but unlikely.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  5. #5
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    Stick your hand into the gimbal brg, push and pull as you rotate it. Anything not feeling correct, then it's bad. Sealed means you normally don't have to grease it with a grease gun but any water in the bellows can/may/will wash out the lube and the water will start rusting metal. Pull at least one u-joint bearing apart and look to see if theres any "chatter" marks on the bearing surface. If there is, then it's bad, change all.

  6. #6
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    This is the best guy I know on Volvo Penta product:

    http://www.boatwrench.com/

    Ask for Rob Gina. I've known Rob for over 25 years. Best Volvo tech--he eats and sleeps Volvo--and a straight-up, honest and good businessman. His place in Orlando is a hotbed of Volvo and Evinrude sales and service. One of the true good ones in this industry.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by King Dad View Post
    Stick your hand into the gimbal brg, push and pull as you rotate it. Anything not feeling correct, then it's bad. Sealed means you normally don't have to grease it with a grease gun but any water in the bellows can/may/will wash out the lube and the water will start rusting metal. Pull at least one u-joint bearing apart and look to see if theres any "chatter" marks on the bearing surface. If there is, then it's bad, change all.
    The "giball" bearing on a Volvo 290 drive is in the flywheel housing that sticks out through the transom sheild on that model. The u-joint yoke slides onto a shaft in the flywheel housing and there is a seal that rides on the outside of the yoke that seals it up.... even if you split the bellows, it's unlikely to get water to the "gimball" bearing. In fact, there is no actual gimball bearing, only the bearings that support the shaft inside the flywheel housing.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  8. #8
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  9. #9
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    Those drives are pretty tough. Last summer I had one that did pretty much the same thing. The drive plate that bolts to the flywheel was broke.

  10. #10
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    Well guys I reckon I am on the search for a used upper gear housing in good shape with gears and all just a bolt on application. I took it apart this morning and it has broken a tooth off one of the gears and has almost destroyed everything in the process. any leads maybe on were to find one would be great heres a picture of the gear. and I will post one of inside of the housing later.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #11
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    There are plenty of places t get those, I used too work for Powerhouse Marina in Miami, we used to rebuild them for the factory.... http://powerhousemarina.com/
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  12. #12
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    Can there be any differences in 290 duo prop drives mine is 1989 model i believe and the one i found with a good gear housing is on a 290 dp drive also a 1989 or 1990. but the suspension fork looks different than mine?

  13. #13
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    dug up the serial/ model tag off of drive. it lists: (top right hand corner) 854298 (center of tag left to right lists) DP-B 1.78 (very bottom lists) 3102089396 if this helps with anything

  14. #14
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    and what does the "B" mean in the DP-B

  15. #15
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    The 'B" is the revision number......so to speak..... Find another DP-B and you'll be good to go.... All you really need is the upper assembly, rinse out the lower and put it together using the manual.......
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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