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09-14-2013, 10:43 PM #1
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Time to best the dead "black max", "black box" horse.
I have seen a little bit of conflicting information in my searches, so here goes. 89' 2.4 200. Three boxes total. I have block off kit for oil injector. After that, disconnect the three boxes, link and sync and done? No wire swapping, no jumpers?
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle
Originally Posted by mrcrsr
and you could always add more hp!!
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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09-14-2013, 10:45 PM #2
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Dam it! It was supposed to say "beat" not best. Freakin I pad, one finger typing sob!
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle Originally Posted by mrcrsr
and you could always add more hp!!
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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09-14-2013, 11:17 PM #3
Screaming And Flying!
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Need to hook the overheat head sensor wire right to the terminal block by the switch boxes .. tan/blue and the temp sensor if it has one to tan
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09-15-2013, 08:50 PM #4
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So, the tan/blue will theoretically activate the buzzer and tan would go to the gauge? In other words they will both be "leaving" the switch box and head for the dash?
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle Originally Posted by mrcrsr
and you could always add more hp!!
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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09-15-2013, 08:53 PM #5
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Oh wait, the terminal block will be a junction? I'll put my eyes on it, then ask if I need to. It will probably make more sense when I'm standing in front of it.
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing, and be nothing. –Aristotle Originally Posted by mrcrsr
and you could always add more hp!!
Quinten
86' Hydrostream Vking YT, 2.4 Bridgeport EFI
(Rigging and interior in the works)
88' Hydrostream Voyager, 2.4 200 Merc
Boat of The Month Feb. 2009
resto here, http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=144414
Dedicated to you Dad, I miss you! 1935-2008
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09-15-2013, 09:28 PM #6
5000 RPM
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i need these answers too so please keep the info coming.
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09-15-2013, 09:59 PM #7
7000 RPM
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X2. I have the same motor but have not ditched my boxes...yet!
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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09-16-2013, 05:30 AM #8
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Subscribed for info as well.
"The trouble with trouble is it starts out as fun" Mark Twain.
1989 SeaCraft 20CC
1989 Mercury 200 EFI SN#OC126437
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09-16-2013, 06:24 AM #9
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If the wiring harness in the boat includes the trim control wires (some of the olders ones did not) then the over temp sender (Tan/blue) connects to the tan/blue at the terminal block. Disconnect tan/blue from oil inj alarm module. The tan wire from the temp. sending unit for the gage will connect to the tan wire that comes out of the side of the wiring harness bullet connector (along with the trim cntrol and indicator leads). The oil injection alaram module is disconnected and removed. The other module is usually a spark advance/idle stablizer and is not related to the oil injection. However, most remove it as well and set WOT timing to max advance desired (for 200s usually 23-25 degrees). Not sure what the third box you're referring to is (knock sensor on EFI???).
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