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09-12-2013, 05:54 AM #16
I don't think you can always see reed problems unless they are broken or clearly not sealing well. Once you have gone thru the trouble to tear down the engine far enough to inspect them, you should go ahead and replace them...they're not that expensive. We use TDRs in our 300X motors...and they work great.
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09-12-2013, 11:23 AM #175000 RPM
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First of all it could be an electrical issue. Could even be the ECU.. I just had to replace one yesterday that was boging down after a minute or so run. It would drop from 3500 rpm to idle without moving throttle at all and might catch back in and go and do it again. Tried a ECU form another engine and now it is fine..
Just another 2 cents now that it is mentioned: Since primer bulbs went to over 20 bucks now we are rigging some with Mr Gasket fuel pumps inside the boats next to the gas tanks and using a push button intermittent switch to prime the motors...Carbed fishing motors especially.. it is not a restriction in the fuel line at all and eliminates the bulb. Just hold the switch for a moment until you hear it tighten up pressure.. You can tell by the sound of the pump... On an EFI engine once the VST is filled up you should not ever need to prime it unless you run it out of gas.20ft Gambler with Merc 260
Too many projects to liist..
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09-13-2013, 08:16 AM #185000 RPM
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Intermittent hard to start and flooding can also be caused by slow cranking speed.
The system requires a minimum of 300 RPM for the stator to generate sufficient voltage for the ignition system to function.
A DVA test of the stator cranking voltage may help determine if cranking speed is low.
Even with a well charged good battery that passes load testing, a poor cable connection at any point, poor contacts in the starter solenoid, or dirty starter brushes/commutator can reduce starter speed.
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09-13-2013, 10:26 AM #195000 RPM
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I agree with Charlie B53 and also if you pull the flywheel off and that stator had stuff melted and ran out of it just replace it no matter what a DVA says.. If they bleed they are trouble. I run into it all the time here in my shop. And those high amp regulators short out easily too. On my own personal boat I like the old 9 amp system with the old style flywheel on a 2.5L Merc... I just carry and extra deep cycle battery in case live well pumps run the crank battery... I just flip a switch when it gets weak... I know I will be going home not stranded.
20ft Gambler with Merc 260
Too many projects to liist..
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09-13-2013, 10:38 AM #20
That would nice if this engine had a stator.....an 02 3.0L EFI should have a motorola ECM (which can go bad but not often) and a alternator...no stator. I have found the ignition on these engines to be a little weaker than the stator style CDMs and if you use the NGK plugs, they can cause problems (these are the only ones I prefer the Champs in)
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09-13-2013, 03:24 PM #215000 RPM
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Sorry I lost track somewhere before here. I thought it was a 2.5L .... Yes it could be the Motorola digital ECM. And the Champ plugs are correct... I have ran into that issue also on one.. If you know someone else who has exact same engine you can try a ECM swap and see if the problem follows your ECM. that is a better diagnosis than sending it to Tony as it is an actual situation not simulated. I do not have an extra ECM like that here but you can check around and might find a loaner or loan them yours to try.. some folks are nice enough to do that to help you..
20ft Gambler with Merc 260
Too many projects to liist..
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09-13-2013, 08:44 PM #225000 RPM
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My bad, thinking of 2.5.
Ignition still has a minimum voltage to operate, ditto all ECU's.
Do a voltage test at the power supply wire while cranking to see what actual voltage is while the starter is drawing the voltage down. If the starter draw is too much and/or battery and cables unable to carry sufficient this could cause erratic operation until the starter key is released.
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11-14-2013, 09:29 PM #23Junior Member
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Just got the boat back from the shop. the ACT sensor was bad and the carson reeds that were in it were not seating and closing properly so when trimmed up fuel would leak out of the reed blocks and eventually flood the motor. The stock reeds were put back in and the ACt changed. Runs great, better than it ever has.
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11-15-2013, 09:00 AM #24I don't think you can always see reed problems unless they are broken or clearly not sealing well. Once you have gone thru the trouble to tear down the engine far enough to inspect them, you should go ahead and replace them...they're not that expensive. We use TDRs in our 300X motors...and they work great.
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11-15-2013, 09:12 AM #25
Thank you for posting the conclusion as I especially learned from it. A lot of threads are started but never tell the actual cause.
You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
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11-15-2013, 09:32 AM #26
I wish I could say I learned from this thread, but the answers don't make sense. What is an ACT sensor? I looked it up in the manual for this motor and the closest I came was a Anolog Coolant Temp, but that's not a digital sensor for that that ECU. Secondly the only thing I learned about those Chris Carson reeds is that they were put in wrong...those cages have to lapped and sometimes sent to Chris. I have a set in each of my twin EFI's and they run great, but I took my time with them, and had a real mercury mechanic of 17 years doing most of the work.
Please don't get me wrong, I am glad your motor is running great.Boats love hundred dollar bills.
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11-15-2013, 10:06 AM #27
ACT sensor? I had the same question. HV, The thread illustrates the types of problems reeds that don't seal correctly can cause...and this is often over looked. As far as the reeds...they could have been old or overtorqued ..but if simply putting on new reeds fixed it, I doubt the cages were the issue.
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11-15-2013, 11:40 AM #28
Simply putting on new reads didn't fix it. He put the old factory ones back on, which are almost 12 years old. The Chris Carson reeds were new a year ago...see what I'm saying. They were not intalled as good as the needed to be...
Boats love hundred dollar bills.
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02-24-2014, 06:45 PM #29Junior Member
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another update on the boat. Installing the factory reeds did not fix the problem. It is still happening but is so intermittent. I will check the voltage output. The carson reeds weren't installed properly a couple of them weren't seated all the way the mechanic said. The only way I have been able to get the boat to start when it floods is to dump the fuel filter, dump the water fuel seperator so that no fuel is getting to the engine for a few seconds while i'm cranking on it and then it will crank.. and often not give me any trouble the rest of the day..frustrating.
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02-25-2014, 01:35 AM #305000 RPM
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dumping filters does not stop fuel supply,as vst is still full and suppling pressure to rail/injectors.sorry to say but I think your still chasing your prob but,getting closer.wish I was closer as I have a few days to play as our lake still has 48" of ice.. oh well-- my '11 skidoo 800 etec needs more miles on it.good luck and I know you'll find it-th