Building full length stringers CORRECTLY ?'s

[1FASTLASER]

Ok I need to know how to build full length stringers correctly including how to scarf them to get the desired strength before I bed them in. I would love to use light weight material such as carbon fiber board but I would like or have to use wood to keep cost down. So with that in mind what would be the best lightest I could go with and keep the weight down. They will be fully encapsulated before bedding and tabbed in while bedding them in.
Please explain the correct way to scarf them together so I have the best possible strength with wood

[1FASTLASER]

As you can tell wood is not my material. I have ways worked with metal

[Ted Stryker]

Our last build we went away from wood altogether, and used coosa board... It comes in different densities and weights to suit a given area or particular stress... Resin bonds to it very hard, it's light, doesn't rot, not prohibitively expensive on our size hulls... The downside is it's releases itchy dust when sawing, but you're gonna have that element of discomfort inherently in a boat repair anyway.. In areas of heavy thru-bolting, we took extra precaution to help it resist compression due to clamp force -- transom for example..

As to joining lengths of stringers, if it's under a floor and not visible then I would cap the joint on both sides... Pretty much just sandwich the joint with two pieces about 15" or so (depending on stringer height) with your choice of board material ... If it's visible then I'd have to used my imagination like having some smaller lateral bulkhead type braces that would tie in these areas of splice and maybe heavy up the laminates by a couple layers...

As far as scarfing, I'm gonna sit back and learn from some of the professionals that will chime in, but maybe cutting complementary 45 degree angles or cutting male to female "V" cuts would help... Both would increase the bond area and give an irregular bond line to resist separation..

Keep us posted

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

http://www.spaceagesynthetics.com/ or http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.html and the longer the scarf angle the greater the joint surface area , which means the stronger it will be ( excample ) 12 to 1 , scarf bevel opposed to 8 to 1 , which can run vertically or horizontally , and might i mention space age offers seconds which is Coosa's biggest competitor that is cheaper and offers the most bang for your buck compaired to Coosa .