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  1. #1
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    Trim Pump leaking form ram?

    Thoughts, ideas, or suggestions on this? I'm not new to boating but I've never had this issue before. First noticed some hydro fluid running down the midsection so I traced it up to the ram. The leak looks to be getting worse, as shown in the pic today after a day of boating. I want to use my boat tmrw and I'm wondering if I can get away with just topping off the pump reservoir to hold me over? Am I at risk of damaging the pump?

    Also, how hard is the repair on this? I have a lifting ring and a place to lift the engine should I need to. Thanks.

    1989 24ft Skater, Twin Diamond Marine 280's with Diamond Tuners, 34p Cleavers. A few pieces of JL Audio equipment.
    1988 18ft Talon- SOLD

  2. #2
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    I'd be looking at getting a new cyl, that shaft looks kind of ugly. JMO. And flush the pump after.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  3. #3
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    ......OR..... just get a new $2,- seal and replace it.... No problem running with it the way it is, worst that can happen is that the motor stays down....
    True Viking
    Scarab 34 SS with Triple OMC 4.0 V8's

  4. #4
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    buy another used one from some one on here i have bought rams on here for spares i replaced one that was leaking and that was 5 years ago and no problems since i still have spares laying around just in case,service kits dont always work if you have grooving,pitting and such. by the time you buy the kit and the time make up new words ,buy a good used one they either work or dont.

  5. #5
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    Should not be hard to replace the seal, but the piston rod needs to be flawless for the new seal to hold. To replace the seal, get a spanner tool that will fit those holes and remove the cap; use a piece of PVC pipe on top of the tool with the motor trimmed down to the pipe to help hold the spanner wrench in the cap as you crack it loose. After it's cracked loose, remove the pipe, support the engine by the lower unit and drive the tilt pin out of the mid-section at the top of the piston rod. There is a small cross pin that is not easy to get out that keeps the tilt pin from falling out, we usually just drive the tilt pin hard enough to shear the cross pin. Once the tilt pin is out, trim the unit down a couple inches and raise the lower unit as high as you can and finish removing the cap. Pull the piston assembly out, there is a nut at the bottom that holds the piston to the rod, remove that and the piston, be careful not to lose any of the little balls and springs (note where they go). Slide the cap off and replace the seals. Reverse to put it together..........
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  6. #6
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    To get thru the summer I have used Lucas powersteering stopleak and it made it all season on my 88 200 merc watersking with the kids. I have also used it on my plow trucks with out any issues. Gary

  7. #7
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    Just noticed.... your'e here by me..... What motor is it? I can look to see what parts you need, I have the tools to do the job if you need help....
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  8. #8
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    2005 200 Mercury efi. But it's a 280 offshore midsection. Help would be awesome!
    1989 24ft Skater, Twin Diamond Marine 280's with Diamond Tuners, 34p Cleavers. A few pieces of JL Audio equipment.
    1988 18ft Talon- SOLD

  9. #9
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    Single Ram? PM me, can come over and look at it this week to see if it needs a new rod too
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  10. #10
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    I have the same issue on my 2000 Johnson.

    Anyone know where I can order the seals and spanner wrench? The ram looks to be in good condition.
    1987 Valero YT/2001 OptiMax 225

  11. #11
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    Trying to find the part number for the new seal. It's a 2003 Mercury 300x Offshore midsection. Single Ram. I think the reflection of the oil is giving you guys the impression the ram is bad. I'll double check but I'm pretty sure it's got a smooth surface. I tried filling the trim pump on my last trip out, but when I took out the head screw and tried putting fluid in, it just overflowed after a few drops. Do I need to do something special to release the pressure or make room in the lines for new fluid?
    1989 24ft Skater, Twin Diamond Marine 280's with Diamond Tuners, 34p Cleavers. A few pieces of JL Audio equipment.
    1988 18ft Talon- SOLD

  12. #12
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    The 300X and 2.5 saddle brackets are the same. To fill the pump it has to be all down, fully retracted. If it will not accept fluid when retracted then it is full.
    I think what was mentioned that might need replacing was the cap and possibly the housing because it looked to have pitting from corrosion, common when they were used in salt. Do confirm the ram is smooth when apart, most times they are and just need the aluminum cap.

  13. #13
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    Ok I'll check today. As far as I know everything on this boat is in great condition and there isn't any rust or corrosion anywhere. The time I notice the most fluid leaking is after trailering. I'm guessing the stress of the motor bouncing up and down is causing the fluid to find the path of least resistance and its squeezing by the seal on the cap. Do you know a part number or source to buy the new cap? I'm guessing the cap and seal are integrated?
    1989 24ft Skater, Twin Diamond Marine 280's with Diamond Tuners, 34p Cleavers. A few pieces of JL Audio equipment.
    1988 18ft Talon- SOLD

  14. #14
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    Not saying they are or that anything else in that boat is not as good as it can be, it just looked like a slight pitting from the picture you posted, once again common in salt and if it is not affecting the sealing area just change the seal. Sometimes while going through all the work to get them apart it is best to swap out.
    They may or may not be integrated if bought a new cap the other seal is a large O ring.
    If it happens when trailering you need to make sure they are supported properly because if they are not bad now they will be shortly, it is given you a warning. Heck they may even stop!
    Will need to look into the #, do not have it off hand and if they even sell them any longer.

  15. #15
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    Wouldn't the stress of running 80/90mph in the chop be more stressful than the motor just hanging off the back while trailering down the turnpike? I'm not trying to be a wise @$$, it's more ignorance on my behalf than anything. I was under the impression that trailering with the motors tucked all the way in was the safest bet. Flabum1017 offered to help fix the seal but he said he couldn't find the part number for it. I want to try and find the number and get the seal in hand prior to taking it all apart since the only time I can really do it is on the weekends. Never know if I'll be able to find the part on a sat or sun.
    1989 24ft Skater, Twin Diamond Marine 280's with Diamond Tuners, 34p Cleavers. A few pieces of JL Audio equipment.
    1988 18ft Talon- SOLD

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