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  1. #1
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    1988 2.4 Bridgeport stator yellow wires

    Finally got to take the boat out yesterday, it ran great for about a half mile and fell on its face. Wouldn't get on plane or past 2000 rpm. Would rev in neutral fine but under load not so great. So I limp it back to the trailer and got to look at it today. The fuel pressure is solid 39 psi looking at the wires coming from the stator and they are Deteriorating all the way to the stator yellow wires only. Looks like they have been rubbing on the aluminum that holds the switch boxes. Where can I get a new one and a puller for the flywheel?? Is this my problem? If the yellow wire touches ground would it kill the motor like it did. Any help would be great.

  2. #2
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    Jun 2009
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    central minnesota
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    yellow=charging.low voltage and your injectors stop workin.also check/change reg/rectifier.-th

  3. #3
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    Sep 2012
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    Gilbert sc
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    Sir theres is a high speed stator and low speed stator it sounds like your high speed stator is gone. flywheel pulller you can get from napa or auto parts store that will work just make sure to torque the flywheel back down or the key way will destroy the crankshaft

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Moses Lake, Wa.
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    The stator had two functions. Each distinct from the other. The low and high speed windings (red, red/white,blue and blue/white), that are ignition related and provide the ac voltage to the switch boxes. The two yellow wires are the charging system windings that also create ac voltage, but is later changed to dc for the battery and it's needed systems, ie: trim, choke, injectors, guages, lights, etc... You can not have any wires "rubbing" against anything, exposed wires, -shorts- or broken-open... You may have the yellow charging circuit bad, (loss of charging capibility) or the high speed windings (red/white and blue/white)but it may not matter as they both encompass the stator. You cab do ohm checks and diode checks of the stator and rectifier too. I'd do that prior to just purchasing a stator, just to be sure. But.... you probably need a stator..

  5. #5
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    Dec 2012
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    Ah, and you can only put the flywheel on one way. There isn't a removable/replaceable woodruff key. It's built/machined right into the crank. After you get the flywheel off, you'll see.

  6. #6
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    well here is a pic of the wires they are wasted from end to stator. i would like to replace it rather than testing it. Previous owner or the guy he got it from did a nice liquid electric tape job on the frayed areas of the yellow wires. what stator and what rectifier part# do i order? are the cdi ones better than the stock mercury stator?Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
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    you'll need a serial number or narrow down exactly what year you have to get specific part numbers. CDI parts are fine and in fact usually cheaper than OEM.

  8. #8
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    thanks for the info.. is the puller 1 1/2" -16 threading for the flywheel?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Loch Erin, Irish Hills Area, SE Michigan
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    Your high side of the stator is cooked, a separate issue from the frayed wires.

    The OEM stator should be around $180.
    '89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
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  10. #10
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    quicksilver part# 398-5454A35,15 amp,don't forget locktite on the screws @ 30 inch lbs. that stator can be used on carb or efi motors.

  11. #11
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    so i got a flywheel puller it has the #398-5454a15 but calls for the one that ends in a35 ?? could this have been why the wires are destroyed also it had a sputter at full throttle when it was running decent????
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 309a.JPG  
    Last edited by dezertsub; 05-01-2013 at 10:56 AM.

  12. #12
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    Got the new stator in along with the new rectifier. Took her out this morning to see what she wants to do when I hit the go peddle.. Wow did she screamandfly thank you all for the help.

  13. #13
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    Wright City, MO USA(Transplanted Seattlite)
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezertsub View Post
    ........... the #398-5454a15 but calls for the one that ends in a35 ...............
    With Merc Parts the 'a##' is the revision # since the original part # was issued. Seldom a problem.

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