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11-23-2012, 06:02 PM #15000 RPM
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Merc 225 EFI questions (compression, steering arm and lower mounts)
Had the opportunity to check out a '95 Merc 225 EFI this morning. The engine is currently on a 23' Mako center console, has been used solely in saltwater and has unknown hours. The paint was pretty faded, and the midsection had been poorly repainted, but other than that, it was cleaner than I expected. All in all, I was happy with what I saw given the seller is only asking for $2000 w/ all the rigging, but I did walk away with a few questions...
1. Compression after about 5 minutes of idling was between 98 and 103 psi, which sounds about average given what I have read on the forums here. The plugs looked pretty good, but the bottom one on the starboard side was rusty (on the outside) and didn't seem as "sooty" on the inside. Compression on that cylinder was the highest of the 6 @ 103, so I don't think there is a problem, but I was wondering what the possiblity of water getting to that cylinder might be.
2. The bolts holding the steering arm on were pretty rusty. How difficult is it to change these?
3. The nuts holding the lower mount were pretty eaten away as well. Again, how difficult would it be to correct this and what might be involved? The steering arm itself was perfect.
Anyone here have any thoughts on the above? I think it's a good buy, especially since the seller is willing to include a Sea Star hydraulic cylinder with it.
If I pick it up, I plan to change the plugs and water pump, decarb, clean flush out the oil injection system, have the injectors cleaned and clean the VST tank/filter to establish a service baseline. Anything else I should consider?
Thanks.Brian
St. Leonard, MD
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11-23-2012, 08:31 PM #2
To change the steering arm bolts the power head needs to be pulled. The lower bolts are probably corroded into the motor mounts and might have to be cut to get out. If its a high performance application now is a good time for solid mounts, top and bottom. Bottom starboard plug might be rusty just cause of water vapor. Common if you don't keep the motor coated with crc. JMO
Last edited by vnemous; 11-23-2012 at 08:33 PM.
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11-24-2012, 09:49 AM #35000 RPM
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Thanks man!
Would you consider any of the above to be deal breakers?Brian
St. Leonard, MD
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11-24-2012, 03:32 PM #46000 RPM
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I paid $900 for my last '96 225 and it looked a lot better than that although it did need a new lower. Depends where you are at , how the market is etc. 95-100 lbs is normal for those motors.
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11-25-2012, 08:39 AM #5
You need to have a leak down done to really know the condition of the motor. It could have good compression with a bad leakdown and be in need of a re ring which if you have someone do it will probably cost you what your gonna pay for the motor. Also notice your missing a bolt for the lower cowl. Has it been apart?
Salt water with unknown hours and maintenance it may never come apart
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11-25-2012, 10:55 AM #6
I purchased a salt motor once and it arrived with a jackplate I did not purchase nor did I really want it. Called the seller and he said he thought I might be able to use it so he sent it along. Explosives would not have removed the jack plate so I pulled the powerhead and trashed the rest. I will never purchase another salt water motor.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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11-26-2012, 12:06 PM #75000 RPM
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vnemous,
Good catch on the missing bolt. I hadn't picked up on that. I don't know for a fact that it's been apart, but I suspect it does have a replacement powerhead. It seemed pretty clean in comparison to the rest of the engine and the head bolts had undisturbed paint on them. But you can't really conclude much from that...
Brian
St. Leonard, MD
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11-26-2012, 12:41 PM #8
Still has the original coils, if it is a quicksilver replacement powerhead it should have a tag on top of the motor back by the alternator.
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11-27-2012, 07:21 PM #95000 RPM
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Thanks rchevelle71.
Does anyone know if the engine's serial number is located anywhere else besides on the swivel bracket? We found the SN sticker there, but the number was either faded out or it was a blank sticker. It almost looked like it had been stuck on over another sticker (which is part of the reason I suspect a possible power head replacement).
Thanks for the help.Brian
St. Leonard, MD