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Thread: Viper resto-mod

  1. #106
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    Had a piece of 1/2" scrap aluminum from a previous project. Crudely extracted a piece 24" x 3.5" from the piece to use as a backing plate for the upper jackplate mounts. Will round the corners and clean it up when the "finish" work is started. Now that most of the rigging has been mocked up, will start de-rigging and getting the inside hull and underside deck finished and ready to glass back together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF4657 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4659 (Copy).JPG  

  2. #107
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    Nice Job.
    You going to paint your bolt caps black or something?

    1994 16' Murphy 1991 115 Merc
    1985 12' Charger 1989 70 Merc
    1981 18'DL Charger 1989 200EFI Merc

  3. #108
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    Same color as the splashwell, white.
    Quote Originally Posted by Murph View Post
    Nice Job.
    You going to paint your bolt caps black or something?

  4. #109
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    Are you planning on bracing the transom above the splashwell? It looks like all the strain is at, or above the splash well.

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  5. #110
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    The relocated mounting holes are 2" above the original mounts. Thought that with the added knees and the splashwell getting glassed in good that there wouldn't be a problem. Do you have any suggestions?
    Quote Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin View Post
    Are you planning on bracing the transom above the splashwell? It looks like all the strain is at, or above the splash well.

  6. #111
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    Most Hydrostream transoms are about 4" above the bottom of the splashwell and they get cracks in the corners. The top bolts are trying to pull back and the lower ones would be pushing forward. On a stock set-up, the top bolts are close to the splashwell. Your set-up is so high, it puts the "hinge" point of the jack "bottom edge of jack" right at or near the splashwell. To me, that creates a shear line and all the stress is above all your reinforcement. By deleting the splashwell, you would be using the rear deck to support the transom much higher. I would like to hear others feedback. Maybe I'm missing something.

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlaskaStreamin View Post
    By deleting the splashwell, you would be using the rear deck to support the transom much higher. I would like to hear others feedback. Maybe I'm missing something.
    I would agree with Ron. If your going to raise your transom, I would remove the splashwell so you can get the support of the deck up higher. That is also the reason most guys do remove the splash well for the add strength. Just my .02 cents. I would like to also hear others input but im with Ron on this one.
    -Kevin
    Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
    1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
    1982 Hydrostream Vector
    1982 Hydrostream Vamp
    1973 Hydrostream Vixen
    1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
    199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
    1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster

  8. Thanks akeemb86 thanked for this post
  9. #113
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    Too busy looking at those nice caps.
    Certainly need some kind of mechanical bracing.
    Something fastened to the transom plate to the boat.

    1994 16' Murphy 1991 115 Merc
    1985 12' Charger 1989 70 Merc
    1981 18'DL Charger 1989 200EFI Merc

  10. #114
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    Can't stop thinking about Ron's observation regarding the stability of the raised transom. When I got home from work I studied the transom and motorboard wondering why I didn't see the shear line, may have got caught up in the lower bolt accessibility issue. After looking and measuring, I don't think shear will be an issue as the jackplate reaches 4 additional inches below the lower mount well into the knees. When the old motorboard was cleaned out, a deep channel of the original supporting glass was left in to nest the new motorboard into helping to tie it unto the hull. The motorboard is 1.5", 10 ply thick with and additional 3/4", 5ply base that is also tied into the stringers. When the deck gets glassed back on, will look at gusseting the splashwell and motorboard together and I think it will be good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF4257 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4665 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4666 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4669 (Copy).JPG  

  11. #115
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    That jacking plate is a beautiful piece. I like how it is very smooth and modern looking

  12. #116
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    The underside of the deck was cleaned up and painted and is now ready to be mated back with the hull.......only the hull is a long way from being ready. Back to sanding!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF4673 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4671 (Copy).JPG  

  13. #117
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    Nice! What did you use for paint? That will make it nice and bright under the deck.
    1975 Hydrostream Ventura II
    1987 evinrude 200xp

  14. #118
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    Used a quart of Rustoleum Top-coat for boats. It's a semi-gloss white and went on well. Thinking about using it for the inside of the hull as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by NosBoss View Post
    Nice! What did you use for paint? That will make it nice and bright under the deck.

  15. #119
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    Stopped by the machine shop on the way home from work and picked up my Seastar helm. Machined a hub for the woodruff key and to mount the steering wheel to. Also made a cover for the steering shaft/nut.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF4676 (Copy).JPG   DSCF4679 (Copy).JPG  

  16. #120
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    Had an old mechanical trim gage the was cast. Since there will be a need for two, one for the trim and the other for the jackplate, had a pair made. Have some ideas for placement on the dash.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF4682 (Copy).JPG  
    Last edited by proprider; 06-11-2013 at 08:15 AM.

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