School Me On Old School ('50's) 2 Banger JohnRudes......

[Instigator]

Toying w/playing w/a 30 - 40 HP 2 banger from the mid '50's to early '60's era on a project. I have a fair amount of experience w/them but was many moons ago and am hazy on the internals and differences between the 25's to 40's that looked very similar externally. F'n Crazy reminded me that the old ones didn't have bearings but I'm thinking that was the small motors only???? Pretty sure my '53 25 HP had bearings.
Also, I had a '53 25 HP and a '60 40 HP and would like to know what the differences are, interchangability etc. If I get a mid '50's 25/30 HP can I put a 40 HP p.head on it?
I know in my kneel down era (late '70's to mid '80's) we had a 36 cu.in runabout class that was pretty slick. They ran the '60's era 2 bangers on the 4 cylinder boats and they ran pretty good.

Thanks guys. Tired of the big money projects (for now) and thinking a nearly free, light (no lifts needed), rare toy might be fun and different plus my roots are calling

[Capt.Insane-o]

Well I'll bite...
















they make a cool mailbox!

[Bies]

The older motors definatly the small ones had sleeve bearing, not ball, that was the reason for richer mixtures, 25:1, leanest would be 32:1

[Instigator]

The older motors definatly the small ones had sleeve bearing, not ball, that was the reason for richer mixtures, 25:1, leanest would be 32:1

I remember having them apart. But I'm also fairly certain the 1953 25 that I owned and the 1960 40 hp both had current style, caged roller bearings. Was pretty sure about that but am still interested in the differences between models.
I have saved probably 20+ sets of plans from my racing/building days and I have one particular set for a '40's era, double cockpit, rear steer 12' O/B that I've wanted to build for ever. Varnished and stained w/a '50's era, hot rod 2 banger OMC might be fun.

[activator12]

I know for certain a '65 40hp has rollor bearings and a '62 Speeditiwn does as well (I have links to parts diagrams and lists, can email if you want).

These engines are definately dirt cheap; for engines and parts check aomci.org for their classifieds and swap meets.

Here's some interesting articles on them:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/...x/articles.htm

[Capt.Insane-o]

I want to say in 57 I think the 14 speedi-twin(?) and up had bearings, the 7.5 5.5 3 etc were bushings of course.

Aha here we go..http://www.crowleymarine.com/old_evinrude_johnson.cfm some of the diagrams are pretty f-d up though.

[Instigator]

(I have links to parts diagrams and lists, can email if you want)

Would be much appreciated. BTW, one of the plan sets I have is for the TNT.
williams829557@bellsouth.net

[Instigator]

So I'm back to thinking twins on my new/antique tin boat.

Did some more digging and it appears in '56 the 30 was the big boy and went to 35 in '57 and 40 in I think '60 if not before. I had a '60 and loved it.
Local guy got it on a new/used boat, took it to his local Merc dealer (he was a Merc guy), they tore it down, told him it was junk and sold him a new Merc.
I bought it for $75. in box's, re-assembled it (w/o replacing a thing) and skied w/it the next day!

Anyhow, would be nice to find prints/spec's showing the differences between the three motors. From what I remember, almost everything is interchangeable.
This could be huge for making matching twins. If a 40 is a 30 w/a big carb and different head, that means all I really need are matching cowlings. Javelins or Larks would be cool but I think I can "make" those too.

At a 185 lb hull weight, this thing should be HUGE fun per dollar and would definitely get its share of attention at the ramp.
I'm still deciding between front and rear steer. W/twins I probably won't have a choice. Their catalog shows it but not one w/twins.

[Bies]

So I'm back to thinking twins on my new/antique tin boat.

Did some more digging and it appears in '56 the 30 was the big boy and went to 35 in '57 and 40 in I think '60 if not before. I had a '60 and loved it.
Local guy got it on a new/used boat, took it to his local Merc dealer (he was a Merc guy), they tore it down, told him it was junk and sold him a new Merc.
I bought it for $75. in box's, re-assembled it (w/o replacing a thing) and skied w/it the next day!

Anyhow, would be nice to find prints/spec's showing the differences between the three motors. From what I remember, almost everything is interchangeable.
This could be huge for making matching twins. If a 40 is a 30 w/a big carb and different head, that means all I really need are matching cowlings. Javelins or Larks would be cool but I think I can "make" those too.

At a 185 lb hull weight, this thing should be HUGE fun per dollar and would definitely get its share of attention at the ramp.
I'm still deciding between front and rear steer. W/twins I probably won't have a choice. Their catalog shows it but not one w/twins.

Put you one good Merc 700 on that baby and it will run like a scalded dog!

[Capt.Insane-o]

There is a boneyard up by me full of old twins. I'm bored as hell and can go for a ride if ya want.

[capnzee]

I had this exact boat with an aft cockpit (center deck), moved the steering and controls to the aft cockpit where they belonged and powered it with a 50 hp 4 cyl. Merc.elect start. It ran very well. Had a hook in the bottom which I "pounded" out and replaced with a keel plus knee tied to the transom and the underside of the back seat. This seemed to keep the bottom straight. The kids grew up with this boat and loved it. Centerdeck formed the support for the back of the front seat on the front side and the "dash board" on the rear to which the steering wheel was supported. I went for center steering cause I knew I would have a very interesting boat. The center deck supports were made of oak as were the seats, and seat backs. The center deck was of the same gage aluminum as the front deck (easily worked) and was rivited to the gunnels. Simple work! What I really wished I had was engine tilt/"trim". For my money you can't beat the OMC 2 cyl 55 or the 3cyl 70, both have trim, run for ever and can be bought cheap. I have a 70 and it is always the first one to start in the spring of the year and it runs and just keeps on running!. If you are going to build a boat, I ran the "36" class for years. One of the favorite "homebuilts" was the Hal Kelly MADCAP. easy to build, double cockpit, and reasonably fast with a "C", "D" or 36 engine. Rod

[Instigator]

Great info guys.

Capt'saneo, thanks for the offer. The budget isn't there yet to get serious but I'd love to see what they have.
I found a pair of old Larks for $200. bt looks to be a bunch of parts missing.

Capnzee, 100% agreed. If I "just" wanted a great running classic I'd buy a 3 banger w/trim and be done.
If I go twin classics, I will try and engineer trim. I found one site that lists the mid '50's era 30/35's @ 135 lb's so X 2 will be some weight on the transom. That will likely put controls forward and I can also compensate w/fuel tank position and batteries if electric start but I'd rather have rope to add to the allure. My first "ski" boat had a '53 25 HP OMC on it and if it didn't start by the 2nd or 3rd pull you were doing something wrong.

Also, I ran kneel downs for 9 yrs and remember the 36 cu. in. class well (loved it) and is whats got me thinking. An APBA tech manual from that era might be interesting.
Although, being a "stock" class would only tell me what was legal.

[flabum1017]

You can always go with a pair of CMC jack-n-trim plates too.......

[mn808gade]

spreadin xtra weight left/right on a flatbottom, round edged, narrow, 1960s style boat wouldn't be my choice but "to each their own".may I suggest keeping a single engine rig on the top of your mind.good luck w/project.-th PS. have a new deck like yours hangen in my pole barn for +35 years

[Instigator]

You can always go with a pair of CMC jack-n-trim plates too.......

Thought of that. Not sure about the weight though.