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  1. #16
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    Remove the old driveshaft and press the bearing off. Reinstall the pinion gear and measure from the pinion to the surface the bearing mates to. Do the same for the new shaft adding or subtracting shims to get the same measurement. Put it back together.

    Quote Originally Posted by Old fiberglass View Post
    Another question for all the experts out there. If you install a just a new driveshaft in an old good lower unit does it "typically" have to be reshimmed ?? In other words can you just install a new driveshaft with no issues ??
    Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
    http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.html
    I'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruster View Post
    Remove the old driveshaft and press the bearing off. Reinstall the pinion gear and measure from the pinion to the surface the bearing mates to. Do the same for the new shaft adding or subtracting shims to get the same measurement. Put it back together.

    Thanks for the good info...

    Now if I could just get you to make those aluminum trim bushing.....
    Last edited by Old fiberglass; 10-14-2012 at 11:08 AM.

  3. #18
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    Rick,

    Do we really want aluninum bushings or a PolyGraphite plastic?
    They need to fit in to the eye of the trim cylinder which is "as cast" and there will be no forgiving with the aluminum.
    Just thinkin....

    Quote Originally Posted by Old fiberglass View Post
    Thanks for the good info...

    Now if I could just get you to make those aluminum trim bushing.....
    Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
    http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.html
    I'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruster View Post
    Way easier said than done.... or do you know something that I don't?
    ?---Maybe? We were running Left Hand, Shiftable Units (1100's; 1250's) in the late 60's, supplied by Mercury, before the BP came on the scene. Mercury even had a selection of left hand two blade bronze props available----and I do know how they did it----

  5. #20
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    So how is that done?

    Quote Originally Posted by GENE LANHAM View Post
    ?---Maybe? We were running Left Hand, Shiftable Units (1100's; 1250's) in the late 60's, supplied by Mercury, before the BP came on the scene. Mercury even had a selection of left hand two blade bronze props available----and I do know how they did it----
    Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
    http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.html
    I'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....

  6. #21
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    Back to the original question. The back of a 170SS could get a little busy and tight with twins.....looks do-able though. Does yours have the football insert at the bottom ?? Never got the low down if that really worked or not.


  7. #22
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    my boat does not have the notch or the windshield, also my transom looks a little wider than this picture. both motors fit but they are tight with only a 18" center to center. with the front mount hydraulic steering i dont need the space in between the motors for the steering rod or the cable coming out of the deck.
    1964 Chris Craft Holiday
    Homemade Glen-l Crackerbox
    71 Switzer 17 with twin Merc 1350s

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old fiberglass View Post
    Back to the original question. The back of a 170SS could get a little busy and tight with twins.....looks do-able though.
    This is tight....


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
    http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.html
    I'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruster View Post
    This is tight....


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok Buster do tell....

  10. #25
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    That's Bruster to you!!!LOL Buster is my dog. OK here goes....

    Gary MacNorius Lives down is South Florida and is always making something that is too cool.
    You probably have seen this before, (the drool on it is probably mine)
    Switzercraft Shooting Star with an Action Marine hull section grafted in place. 1500XS power Perfect in every detail.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is his Ventonu Click image for larger version. 

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    as he is building it... from scratch.

    Here it is in the water Click image for larger version. 

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    The 115 Merc is one of my motors. The motors were refinished to look like '62 Mercurys..... in most every detail.

    Here is a link to "Woody Boater" and the pictures they did this spring:

    http://www.woodyboater.com/classic-b...-on-lake-dora/

    Ain't that sumthin"
    Last edited by Bruster; 10-15-2012 at 03:22 PM.
    Bruster's Mercury solid motor mounts, details here:
    http://www.powercatboat.com/Bruster/Bruster.html
    I'm been living in fast forward, now I need to rewind real slow....

  11. #26
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    Interesting idea on twins, a SS17. Let me add some info, (I know many more here know what I do, but this was back in the day). I grew up on the Chain, knew Bob and Dave Switzer. Friend bought a new 1974 SS17 blue stripe louvered cowl, no XS decals, not sure if a J block then, and he don't remember either. Conrad, Bruster, more, know more history that "change", than I do. But later, lunched the motor . Ralph Kozan was the master wrench, us, and he in somewhere,1975/6, put a XS J block on it. Thats when I bought it off him. Now, in the "football cut out? I'd have to ask Bob or Dave on that..(still kicking too, both). But mine had one. My take was it was simple hull design, to run a SS with water getting up, and in the no LPU, top the case water in. And that just a thought me. Just, theorizing the "why there". What other reason why? Before were flat.

    Anyway, the Swits were built well, azz end. Now, if to stuff twins it? Hmm...should be room, but maybe would need some top transom glass the wet well, "redone, for room". Glass in some if needed knee braces, and solid after a big made motor mount aluminum transom plate, some top, to rear seat glass, solid braces too. But, here we go, as I know that hull.

    On the S/S, or L/S motors? Think it this way. If have separation the motors, what was said, 18 inches? Was that cowl to cowl? If so, then the props will be out, another what, 4/5/6 inches? Now they will be way out the water, with the hull deadrise. I can't find a good azz end pic mine, but if twins, without seeing just what, I would try the long shafts. Build the transom with being able to do height, the motors. Bet only a few inches, if that, will have ya in the sweet spot, prop and case water, rest in air.. Ya know what I mean here.

    Sounds like ya are "on it here"! And like the idea too! GO FOR IT! I love those old Swits, wish never sold mine. Couple pix.
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  12. #27
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    You should have plenty of room for twins. Inlines can be put pretty close to each other. I would seriously look for short shafts as well.

    I had a guy cut my drive shafts for $120 in MN or Mich. Very good job. The 1350 should not have pre load pins. And the should be 1.78 gears instead of 2-1. Only years made.

    As to the can/tuner pipe inside the 1350. Yes it has the splitter up top, and I believe the 1350 tuner/pipe came with a 15 inch cut off spot cast into the 20 inch pipe. Just cut it off.

    Find a short shaft and transfer your 1350 pipe into the short mid. After you cut it to 15 specs.

    People have counter rotated the powerheads before . Id just run hydraulic steering and put tabs on the skegs to help with the tourque on the system.
    Conrad
    L6fan57-88

  13. #28
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    ?---Maybe? We were running Left Hand, Shiftable Units (1100's; 1250's) in the late 60's, supplied by Mercury, before the BP came on the scene. Mercury even had a selection of left hand two blade bronze props available----and I do know how they did it---
    Gene I am all ears. I have seen one picture of 1100's on the back of a offshore boat. They were wearing normal fishing lower units. One had a LHR prop on it. I assumed they were just dockbustering the rotation of the motors.
    Conrad
    L6fan57-88

  14. #29
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    Conrad, this. Original post..
    "have a pair of 71 1350s in my garage and just picked up a solid 1971 170 ss switzer that i think would make a great nastalgic look on a twisted little boat. motors are both long shaft with t&t. plan on raising the transom 5", hydraulic steering, batteries and fuel mounted up front, trim motors aft and tricking out fuel system with can filters in the motorwell."

    He has the motors. and 5 up, should work just fine side the pad. He had to do some math, on that already. On counter rotating props? I duuno that, as never been a Swit 17, with "twins" done that I know of. But I sure know that hull, stable as all get up, it the 70's then. I'd do Brusters Solid mounts, tight HYD steer, bet be no problem.

    We are putting the "horse", behind the cart here, when the cart aint built yet. Again, GO FOR IT! And take it from there. Wish the best, and ya BETTER do some pix!

  15. #30
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    Robby,

    Im the 4th or 5th guy to recommend short shafting the motors in this thred.

    I agree that the 20 inch motors would work for now. But I would leave the transom set up as is thinking I would short shaft the motors instead of adding 5 inches of transom.

    the prop center will be 9 inches from the center of the pad. SO some deadrise will have to be accounted for, but I generally think this boat would drive the pad fairly low until expert set up/speed was achieved

    The cool thing about twins on a deep V is you have an automatic jack plate the faster you go

    Id need to see a 20 inch 1350 hanging from under the boat to decide what Id do. lowering the center of gravity with short shafts will always trump raising the motors all things equal. As long as the motors dont ride below the exhaust reliefs.
    C
    Last edited by milkdud; 10-15-2012 at 10:41 PM.
    L6fan57-88

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